SiRJoZ |
Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:59 pm |
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Ok, this is probably a stupid question, but I haven't found the answer here, and I can't seem to find it online either.
I have a 1970...1600...typical setup.
My distributor has two wires.
One goes to the neg terminal on the coil.
Where does the other one go? Ground? |
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glutamodo |
Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:05 pm |
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Uh, sounds like you do not have points, but rather some form of electronic points replacement ("electronic ignition") but without specific data it is kind of impossible to instruct. (got a photo or at least a description of wire colours?) |
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SiRJoZ |
Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:16 pm |
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One black one red. |
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Lingwendil |
Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:32 pm |
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Red to coil positive, black to negative. |
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SiRJoZ |
Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:54 pm |
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Thanks. |
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ashman40 |
Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:14 am |
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Just for your info...
The red module wire provides 12v+ power to the electronic points module. Connect this to a source which is providing 12v+. If this voltage drops below about 11.0v the module will stop working.
The points module grounds (-) thru the point mounting plate in the distributor, NOT the black wire.
The black module wire is NOT specifically a ground wire. It actually provides a trigger signal to the ignition coil. It alternates between sending a ground to the coil (-) or being an open circuit. So black is NOT a ground for the module, it provides a ground to the coil.
Most modules expect at least a 3ohm ballast resistor in the ignition coil to reduce the current passing into the black wire and grounding thru the module. A 3ohm ballast resistor in a 12v circuit limits the current flow thru the black wire of the module to no more than 4A.
DO NOT miswire the electronic points module. Many people have accidentally cross wired the electronic points wires only to find that they have blown the module. This is quite easy because VW wiring uses black wires to indicate "ignition switched 12v+ power". US wiring spec (used on most modules) normally uses red for the hot (12v input) wire and black for ground.
If you accidentally connect the black module wire to the #15 terminal with the other black wires assuming it belongs there... you will bypass the 3ohm resistor in the coil. The max current thru the module will increase greatly. This current will find ground thru the module and instantly burn up the module internals. More expensive modules have a current protection circuit, but the cheaper ones don't. You don't even need to start the engine, the module can burn itself up just by turning the ignition switch ON. |
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beetlenut |
Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:12 am |
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ashman40 wrote: ... More expensive modules have a current protection circuit, but the cheaper ones don't.
Ashman, what are some of the names of the manufactures of the better/more expensive modules? |
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ashman40 |
Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:34 am |
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beetlenut wrote: Ashman, what are some of the names of the manufactures of the better/more expensive modules?
Look at the Pertronix Ignitor II or III modules.
Two examples:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-91847v/overview/year/1974/make/volkswagen/model/beetle
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-71847v/overview/year/1974/make/volkswagen/model/beetle
Read the specs for both and you will see...
"Built-in reverse polarity and over current protection shuts down the system, preventing component damage"
Also, both support low resistance coils (0.6ohm) which translate into more powerful sparks.
You need to be careful and find the correct unit for your model. It looks like not all VW/Bosch distributors are supported by both modules. |
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