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Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:29 am

hi there

i have had a couple of new doors sprayed up and will put all new german quality seals in.

any tips for finding a good sealant that will also stop the bottom of the door from rusting out where the rubber sits? would it be best to pack a silicone based sealant in there so it fills all the gaps? the joint where the inner and outer skins meet is vulnerable and always rusts out eventually...

thanks

rich

Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:21 pm

Has the bottom rust all been fixed?

If so, I would not stuff sealant into the channel for rust protection.

As for gasket adhesive onto sound metal, I use
3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive #08001.

Just check on it often, it shouldn't rust out readily unless you've already got some rust.

Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:37 pm

No glue on the outside door seals, they stay in the channels all by themselves.

Maybe a little silicone when you are installing the windows to seal around the window scrapers. I can understand there might be some water seeping around those.

Plastic under the interior panels, I used rope caulk to seal the plastic to the door. rope caulk creates a waterproof seal and the plastic can still be removed and reapplied, the caulk stays tacky for years.

Drill a couple of weep holes in the bottom of the door.

If the door were completely rust free automotive cavity wax. Just a heavy wax coating the interior so salt and water can't get to the metal.

Wed Feb 08, 2017 1:15 pm

Thanks for the tips.

I find the rubbers never quite stay in place without adhesive plus the gap between the seal and metal can vary a bit. Even using German seals. Worried about water trapped behind the seal.

Doors were chemically stripped derusted and primed so shouldn't be any rust. I noticed on the original doors it has a bitumen paint inside the door about 6" from the bottom. Looks factory applied. I wonder if it's worth reinstating this or just cavity wax?

Interior panels from tmi. The Masonite rear has been painted with a light varnish to seal it a bit better, it did warp a bit after doing this but has straightened out. will definitely use plastic as well so hopefully no warping!

Wed Feb 08, 2017 3:01 pm

Use dabs of monkey snot (yellow 3M weatherstrip adhesive) to hold it in place. Fit it first, then pull up a spot at a time, place the dab, and push it back. This will keep you from getting slack or stretches, which will leak water or drafts.

The bottom edge of the plastic sheet should go inside the door cavity at the bottom, not outside as might seem logical. This will drain any window scraper leakage into the door. You want it there, to be drained out through the drain holes, not into the interior of the car, where it will soak into your new door cards.

Wed Feb 08, 2017 6:27 pm

^^^^ What he said.
I don't go crazy with the weather adhesive. Just a small dab where the seal does not behave properly. On my 67 I have only one place with the adhesive applied. Right near the the door opening control rod.
By not completely gluing the seals in place, you can check for any rust forming in the seal channels to your hearts desire.

Good Luck.

Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:35 pm

Java beetle 65 wrote: would it be best to pack a silicone based sealant in there so it fills all the gaps? the joint where the inner and outer skins meet is vulnerable and always rusts out eventually...

This is the part of your post that makes me nervous. The seam where inner and outer door skins meet also has your drain holes. What I've seen done is treat the inside of the door bottoms with POR 15- hand brushed. Be careful to not close up the drain gaps. It will last longer than you will ever own the car. I do not know if POR 15 is available in the UK- but I'm certain there's something similar. On the exposed part where the seal goes- a good coat of paint should be sufficient. As suggested all over- minimize the amount of adhesive along that seal gutter. Glue acts like a dam.

Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:53 pm

Like others, I use the least amount of glue as I can, sometimes none at all if the new seal likes to seat and stay in place without it. The last time I needed to use any extra gasket glue for this, I used Loctite 37532.

Thu Feb 09, 2017 4:18 am

glutamodo wrote: Like others, I use the least amount of glue as I can, sometimes none at all if the new seal likes to seat and stay in place without it. The last time I needed to use any extra gasket glue for this, I used Loctite 37532.

X2 except I use 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Probably similar to what Andy uses.

Fri Feb 10, 2017 8:15 am

Rust issues on bottom of door are usually from inadequate drainage from inside the doors. Like was said before, make sure your drain holes are clear and that paint or anything else hasn't clogged them up. Water will get trapped and eat that door right up. Seals go in without sealant.