heimlich |
Mon Nov 21, 2016 7:34 pm |
|
Is there a way to test the solenoid on the starter using a battery and cables? I was able to test the starter but now I want to test the solenoid.
If there is a way I would appreciate instructions.
Thank you kindly. |
|
Wayne S. Johnson |
Mon Nov 21, 2016 8:00 pm |
|
A starter solenoid has two windings, pull in and hold. The top of each winding is connected to the key switch terminal. The bottom of the pull in winding is connected to the large motor terminal, this way the pull in winding is getting current for a fraction of a second before the motor is connected to the battery. It draws very high current and can only be on for a second or two for testing, it will pull in the solenoid. The bottom of the hold winding is connected to the case, it is not strong enough to pull in the solenoid, but if you connect the winding to a battery you can push in the plunger and it will stay in. The resistance is so low a common DMM can not get meaningful readings.
DANGER: DO NOT TOUCH THE TERMINALS WHEN THE TEST LEADS ARE REMOVED. THE COIL WILL GENERATE A HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK.
|
|
heimlich |
Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:03 pm |
|
That helps.
Is there a way to test the solenoid and starter together so that I know they are "good"? When the starter was installed it just clicked when ignition was on so I am trying to check if the starter is "good" or not. |
|
[email protected] |
Tue Nov 22, 2016 12:15 am |
|
Autozone etc. can test a starter. It is not too hard to pull the starter and take it in.
There is also much advise on this site to get a voltmeter and check the voltage at the starter. These guys know what they are talking about, if the voltage gets too low the starter acts just like you describe.
So either test the voltage yourself or take the starter to Autozone etc. to test the starter. |
|
heimlich |
Tue Nov 22, 2016 8:04 am |
|
I pulled the starter and took it to Autozone and O'Reillys. Both told me the starter had to be on the car in order to test it.
They put a number into the machine and the machine told them this. If you know what number they need to know in order to test it I would love to hear. |
|
volksworld |
Tue Nov 22, 2016 8:24 am |
|
probably az's method of testing one is to put power to it and see if it spins...which you cant do with a bug starter because if it isnt bolted in, the end of the shaft that rides in the bushing in the transaxle isnt supported so the armature just jams against the windings (auto stick starters are self supporting and can be checked)....bolt it back in, make sure battery is hot,all connections clean ,ground strap to trans good....in a way that you dont kill yourself,(neutral,jacked up and supported properly,no gas leaks etc) jump a screwdriver from the post on the starter that the battery cable bolts on to the spade terminal that gets the red wire from the key...if it sparks and does nothing it needs a starter...if it cranks real slow it could need a new bushing in the trans...if it cranks fine its ok...if it cranks fine but still intermittantly does nothing when you use the key instead of a screwdriver , you need a starter booster relay added in...plenty of posts here on how to do that |
|
68IHscout |
Tue Nov 22, 2016 1:20 pm |
|
Is you're battery fully charged? Sometimes when low it just clicks (the starter) |
|
Wayne S. Johnson |
Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:21 pm |
|
kawfee wrote: That helps.
Is there a way to test the solenoid and starter together so that I know they are "good"? When the starter was installed it just clicked when ignition was on so I am trying to check if the starter is "good" or not.
You need this to support the starter shaft for testing.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=718096
You can use the test button with the starter in the car or in the trans case.
|
|
ashman40 |
Wed Nov 23, 2016 9:24 pm |
|
kawfee wrote: Is there a way to test the solenoid and starter together so that I know they are "good"?
First make sure you have a fully charged battery. A fully charged battery will read 12.6v. Contrary to what some believe, a voltage reading of 12.0v is a weak battery. 12.0v is actually around 40% state of charge.
Add a dab of grease on the nose of the drive gear so it is lubricated when inserted into the bushing which should be in the transmission hole:
Install you starter into the trans. Be sure to bolt it in solid. Wire just the battery cable to the stud marked "Battery connection" in the below pic. You can leave all other wires off for now.
Place the transmission in NEUTRAL and jack up the rear of the car so it doesn't roll over you when the engine cranks. :shock:
With a metal pair of pliers with insulated handles connect the "Battery connection" and the "Ignition wire connection" terminal (The starter solenoid in the pic has two terminals that serve as "Ignition wire connection". You can use either.) Do not touch ANYTHING else while doing this. The battery cable carries a huge amount of current, you do not want to ground it. When you connect the two points together you are bypassing the ignition switch and the starter should crank the engine. If this works your starter and solenoid are working fine. Your problem is with the voltage making it to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch.
As a second test, use the pliers to connect the two threaded studs on the starter solenoid. This will cause the starter motor to spin, but the gear will NOT engage the flywheel. This will show that the starter motor is working. If the above test failed and this test passes it is likely your solenoid is bad. |
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|