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riptide motorsport Tue Oct 04, 2016 1:24 pm

If I'm driving and come to a turn, if I brake normally the engine is going to rev down and die. If I pop it in neutral it will keep through the turn. If I'm coming to a stop light, the braking process will kill the engine. Any ideas? Thanks in advance... steven

airschooled Tue Oct 04, 2016 1:31 pm

Hi there,

I'm assuming we're talking about some sort of vintage Volkswagen here? Carburetor(s) or fuel injection? What kind?

Tell us the specs of your most recent tune-up. Valve adjustment? Dwell setting? Timing? And the most important one: carb idle adjustment.

Robbie

Starbucket Tue Oct 04, 2016 1:50 pm

Sound like your float level is too high and the motor is flooding out when you hit the brakes.

Mos6502 Tue Oct 04, 2016 2:35 pm

riptide motorsport wrote: If I'm driving and come to a turn, if I brake normally the engine is going to rev down and die. If I pop it in neutral it will keep through the turn. If I'm coming to a stop light, the braking process will kill the engine. Any ideas? Thanks in advance... steven

So it will idle in neutral? Will it idle when you push the clutch pedal? Or does it have to be in neutral?

gt1953 Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:02 pm

Have you tried putting it in neutral prior to stop and coast using the brakes to stop. Does the engine stall then?
Are you pushing in on the clutch and disengaging the transmission?

riptide motorsport Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:14 pm

Yes carb, sorry. Neutral meaning, put it in neutral with the shifter. I will check float level as it is fine when the choke is on. Only happens when warn..

Starbucket Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:26 pm

riptide motorsport wrote: Yes carb, sorry. Neutral meaning, put it in neutral with the shifter. I will check float level as it is fine when the choke is on. Only happens when warn.
. You can only check the float level by removing the screws that hold the top of carb. on. Make sure all the hoses to the carb. are on and no nipples are exposed.

airschooled Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:30 pm

Why would anyone take the carburetor apart without first checking the idle mixture setting? :?

It's literally a screw. One screw.

:?

riptide motorsport Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:36 pm

Which one is idle mixture screw? The big one on the left side as you face it?

Starbucket Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:37 pm

asiab3 wrote: Why would anyone take the carburetor apart without first checking the idle mixture setting? :?

It's literally a screw. One screw.

:? Anyone that has a car that runs fine except when braking. Idol mix screw wont fix that. :!:

David_nc_72std Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:22 pm

Which carburetor do you have? Does it only die when it drops to idle while braking, or anytime it is at idle?

If it always dies at idle after the choke opens fully, that can be a symptom of a vacuum leak, or some other problem with the idle adjustment.

iowegian Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:42 pm

Is it a manual transmission, or an autostick?

riptide motorsport Tue Oct 04, 2016 5:19 pm

Pic 34 carb. I adjusted it some, added a little more choke,, it's better, doesn't die quickly by it still will die. Only when hot...

airschooled Tue Oct 04, 2016 5:26 pm

Ahem. For the dense members of this forum:

The reason I asked about idle mixture was for diagnosis.

diagnosis - noun
the identification of the nature of an illness or other problem by examination of the symptoms.

By turning the mixture one full turn in, then driving, then back, then one full turn out, then driving, we would have learned PLENTY about the air/fuel ratio of this car. Then we could have avoided blindly guessing about a car that NONE of us have ever seen.

Since nobody on this forum give a rats ass about diagnosis, I figured it would be good to remind you guys how actual mechanics fix cars properly.

Robbie

Cusser Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:00 pm

asiab3 wrote: Ahem. For the dense members of this forum....

Aren't dense covered in the Body Work section ???

Brian Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:31 pm

Hi friends, make sure the basics are covered. Set the valves at .006 cold. Set timing, static at whatever your distributor needs. Set the choke while it's still cold. Start it up, get it warm and tune the carb.

http://www.volkzbitz.com/34pict-3---4-and-h30-31-adjustments.html

I don't like dents. Did you figure out your electrical issues?

Mos6502 Tue Oct 04, 2016 10:11 pm

asiab3 wrote: I figured it would be good to remind you guys how actual mechanics fix cars properly.

Robbie

I need to find this "actual mechanic" and ask what they're smoking. :lol:

We still haven't been given a complete description of either the problem, or the components, so it's also a bit premature to be jumping to adjusting things for a "diagnosis".

I would still like to know if the car will only idle when in neutral, or if it will also idle if the clutch pedal is pressed in while the box is still in gear. Because it might be helpful to know if the engine is dying on overrun.

Edit: I also see the OP was going to install an electric fuel pump. Did he end up doing that?

Starbucket Wed Oct 05, 2016 7:15 am

asiab3 wrote: Hi there,

I'm assuming we're talking about some sort of vintage Volkswagen here?

This is an actual mechanic? :?

airschooled Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:46 am

Woah hey this week I drove a bug that stalled under braking. The idle mixture screw was all the way in, causing a huge lean condition. Turned out to stoich and it idles perfectly during hard and soft braking in neutral.

"Always diagnose, and always tip your waitress."
Robbie

Mikedrevguy Sat Oct 15, 2016 11:04 am

Is the idle shut off solenoid well seated?
Dealt with similar issue and discovered the loose enough that the momentum of deceleration caused motor to shut off.
Good luck.



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