TheSamba.com :: View topic - Mercedes/Hanomag Campervan

Wed Jun 22, 2016 11:10 pm

So I've picked up something that most people think is a bay window at first -- but it's actually a Mercedes! Well, a rebadged Hanomag to be exact:

A 1976 Mercedes 206D. It's got the 4-cyl diesel OM615 from the 240D, and was originally a commercial cargo van until it was converted to a camper sometime in the 80s. And it's seen better days, although this picture makes it look pretty alright.

Now, I understand from my lurking through build threads (this being my first post you know) that this forum is centered around VWs... so why bring this other thing in here? Well, there is some connection: this van originated from the Tempo Matador, which was VW-powered! Until VW decided to make their own truck and stopped selling engines to the competitors: http://www.oldbug.com/tempo.htm And I thought people here would appreciate trying to bring life back into something old, rusty, and abandoned.

Since the purchase, I've been working on and off, mostly cleaning, collecting parts + tools, and got it running after about a decade sitting under a broken carport. Next up: the brakes - they don't work.

Thu Jun 23, 2016 8:02 am

nice! Where in NJ are you?

Thu Jun 23, 2016 11:51 am

Very cool. I have a 1975 O309D which is a straight Mercedes bus, not a Hanomag.

If you happen to have the parts book with the Bus most parts are still available through Freightliner USA.

This guy is a good resource as well:

http://www.eurotech-services.com/

He shows mostly Unimog but carries all the MB bus and truck parts as well.

Call, don't email or you'll never get answered.

Have fun- looks like a great and worthy project! :)

Thu Jun 23, 2016 4:27 pm

Great, thanks for the link Tram. Good to know I can get parts through freightliner, too. I've tried a couple well-known diesel MB shops so far and they had NO IDEA about this thing except for the engine.

I actually split my time between central NJ and central PA, but the bus lives in NJ. I'm planning on bringing it over to PA once we get it drivable and I secure a garage/workspace.

Speaking of the engine, it's in between the front seats:

So you can always keep an eye on it!

Thu Jun 23, 2016 4:53 pm

Do you have the engine cover?

The FWD 4 speed ZF makes these more fun to drive than my O309 with the long drive shaft a dual rear wheels!

Thu Jun 23, 2016 5:17 pm

There's supposed to be an engine cover???!?!?

(just kidding, it's in the corner of the garage)

Thu Jun 23, 2016 5:28 pm

invnsnt wrote: There's supposed to be an engine cover???!?!?

(just kidding, it's in the corner of the garage)

You can roast weenies on the exhaust multi tasking as you drive if you want.

Depending on how long it has been since that thing has been driven, I'd replace glow plugs, injector nozzles, do a valve adjustment, and order the pump governor diaphragm. the early OM615 engines from W115 chassis cars (through 1976) used a diaphragm connected to engine vacuum to regulate idle speed and amount of injection. They go bad after awhile and when they do idle is really erratic and the engine can bang and smoke a lot, and generally run like crap. Rebuilding the vacuum pump at this point is smart as well.

Buy multiples of these parts if you can and you intend on keeping it, as availability has gotten spotty from time to time.

Also consider replacing drivetrain and subframe mounts if they look smashed or badly weather checked... fresh rubber mounts and a smooth running engine trans will sure cut down on noise in the bus... you'll be surprised by HOW MUCH! :lol:

Thu Jun 23, 2016 6:12 pm

Vac pump parts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-w114-w115-Vacuum-...mp;vxp=mtr

plus

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-w115-Vacuum-Pump-...1904071600

Governor diaphragm:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIAPHRAGM-FOR-MERCEDES-HAN...SwlHRXIyuK

Injector nozzles:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-X-MONARK-EINSPRITZDUSE-F...mp;vxp=mtr

Glow plugs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-MERCEDES-180D-190D-2...mp;vxp=mtr

Fri Jun 24, 2016 12:55 pm

Back in the "olden days" of the 70's I was living out in Salt Lake and ran into a Henschel Honomag sort of like this one. 4 cylinder Austin gas engine and I think front wheel drive. Longer and a bit wider than a baywindow and used baywindow tail lights. His had small louvered windows (much like my 66 Westy at the time had) on both sides and I think a sink & ice box, but no stove. The guy that owned it (a soccer player from Argentina) told me that it started out life in the US as a bread delivery truck in Los Angeles and could also be had with a 240D engine. He told me that he got his parts from a MB guy in New Jersey and that he used CJ 5 wheel bearings and grease seals.

That is about all I remember about it. I ws thinking that both Henscel and Honomag got bought up by MB and they built some of the MB straight trucks at the factory.

Tue Jul 05, 2016 4:51 pm

Did some brake work over the weekend:

Shoes and drums in the front are in decent enough shape to keep for now, but both bleeder valves are shot (one is too corroded, the other is completely broken off) so I need to source and install some new wheel cylinders. I left a message at Eurotech Services. I found some available from Europe but for a price that makes me cringe. So in the meantime, I'm going to pull out the old ones and see if I can get something locally available with the right bore and similar dimensions -- is this worth a shot, or am I missing something important? This is my first time digging into drum brakes after all.

Tue Jul 05, 2016 5:13 pm

Need a closer pic to see shoe condition, but if the cylinders aren't leaking most FLAPS sell universal bleeder repair kits that have a 1/8" NPT thread, drill out the broken one and tap for the replacement, issue solved.

Tue Jul 05, 2016 5:27 pm

Might want to reach out to these guys? Top notch work. Not cheap, but will be the last time you'll need to fix them.

http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html

Wed Jul 06, 2016 6:34 am

busdaddy wrote: Need a closer pic to see shoe condition, but if the cylinders aren't leaking most FLAPS sell universal bleeder repair kits that have a 1/8" NPT thread, drill out the broken one and tap for the replacement, issue solved.

Or.....if you dont want to drill out to 1/8 npt.....Speed Bleeder sells bleeder screws in 6, 7, 8 and 10mm. Ray

Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:19 am

raygreenwood wrote: busdaddy wrote: Need a closer pic to see shoe condition, but if the cylinders aren't leaking most FLAPS sell universal bleeder repair kits that have a 1/8" NPT thread, drill out the broken one and tap for the replacement, issue solved.

Or.....if you dont want to drill out to 1/8 npt.....Speed Bleeder sells bleeder screws in 6, 7, 8 and 10mm. Ray
Are those 2 piece?, or just the screw?
The ones I've seen include a new seat so it doesn't matter if the hole is off center or the original seat is pitted or damaged, myself I'd just replace the screw, but some people don't play well with machine tools and might make a mess, just offering options for when the job gets tough.

Wed Jul 06, 2016 1:14 pm

Never heard of the speed bleeders -- they look interesting. I'll have a better idea if the cylinders are savable or not after I take them out. Just talked to a friend who restores old german military vehicles (kübelwagens, troop trucks, and such), he's had good luck fitting US cylinders with little to no modifications, so I'll be trying that too.

I also removed the front seats and started stripping out the old camper equipment to deep clean the interior. The rear floor pan is wood underneath the carpet, and is in surprisingly good shape.

Sun Jul 10, 2016 9:14 pm

invnsnt wrote: Never heard of the speed bleeders -- they look interesting. I'll have a better idea if the cylinders are savable or not after I take them out. Just talked to a friend who restores old german military vehicles (kübelwagens, troop trucks, and such), he's had good luck fitting US cylinders with little to no modifications, so I'll be trying that too.

I also removed the front seats and started stripping out the old camper equipment to deep clean the interior. The rear floor pan is wood underneath the carpet, and is in surprisingly good shape.

A lot of these vans are plywood floors on a very sturdy frame from the front seats back. A lot of times the wood is just fastened around the edges, which makes the floor act as a sympathetically vibrating speaker cone; e.g., very LOUD inside. If it isn't fastened to the frame rails running side to side, find a way to fix this.

Fri Jul 15, 2016 9:43 am

Tram wrote: invnsnt wrote: Never heard of the speed bleeders -- they look interesting. I'll have a better idea if the cylinders are savable or not after I take them out. Just talked to a friend who restores old german military vehicles (kübelwagens, troop trucks, and such), he's had good luck fitting US cylinders with little to no modifications, so I'll be trying that too.

I also removed the front seats and started stripping out the old camper equipment to deep clean the interior. The rear floor pan is wood underneath the carpet, and is in surprisingly good shape.

A lot of these vans are plywood floors on a very sturdy frame from the front seats back. A lot of times the wood is just fastened around the edges, which makes the floor act as a sympathetically vibrating speaker cone; e.g., very LOUD inside. If it isn't fastened to the frame rails running side to side, find a way to fix this.

Good point -- eventually when I get to the camper interior fitout I'd like to put down some insulation and wooded flooring.

Still struggling with these wheel cylinders. Both fronts are seized in place to the backing plates. Has this happened to any of you? Currently have them on a steady diet of PB Blaster until I figure out a way to pull them out.

Fri Jul 15, 2016 10:43 am

invnsnt wrote: Tram wrote: invnsnt wrote: Never heard of the speed bleeders -- they look interesting. I'll have a better idea if the cylinders are savable or not after I take them out. Just talked to a friend who restores old german military vehicles (kübelwagens, troop trucks, and such), he's had good luck fitting US cylinders with little to no modifications, so I'll be trying that too.

I also removed the front seats and started stripping out the old camper equipment to deep clean the interior. The rear floor pan is wood underneath the carpet, and is in surprisingly good shape.

A lot of these vans are plywood floors on a very sturdy frame from the front seats back. A lot of times the wood is just fastened around the edges, which makes the floor act as a sympathetically vibrating speaker cone; e.g., very LOUD inside. If it isn't fastened to the frame rails running side to side, find a way to fix this.

Good point -- eventually when I get to the camper interior fitout I'd like to put down some insulation and wooded flooring.

Still struggling with these wheel cylinders. Both fronts are seized in place to the backing plates. Has this happened to any of you? Currently have them on a steady diet of PB Blaster until I figure out a way to pull them out.

Invest in some Sili Kroil. it's the best- makes PB Blaster look like glue.

Thu Dec 22, 2016 4:38 pm

Got some updates from the past couple months.

I bought a big box of goodies from a contact in the UK, including all the wheel cylinders, the clutch slave cylinder, and a variety of suspension bushings + ball joints. I used my time off over Thanksgiving to install the front cylinders and start on the rears. It took quite a lot of effort to get the stuck rear driver's side drum off, but got it off eventually and discovered the culprit was a broken brake shoe. I'll need to buy a new one, but at least the wheel isn't locked up any more!

I've finished stripping out the old camper interior and wiring. Discovered a useful access panel for the fuel tank sending unit under the carpet, along with a few pounds of nuts and acorns from a previous furry tenant.

One issue I've been confused by is the clutch. It's stuck disengaged, which means I can't get the van moving under it's own power. Since the hydraulic lines were empty when we got it, I'm thinking the clutch slave cylinder may be stuck. But reading through the operator's manual again, it instructs you to "lock the throw-out lever in the clutch housing". So now I'm thinking the PO might've done this before the van was parked. I need to take a closer look with the front wheels off again -- it's a pretty hard to access area.

Mon Dec 26, 2016 12:56 pm

Saw this over on peachparts. It's coming along nicely! I'd love one of these one day but first a Unimog