TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Jun 17, 2016 4:38 pm

Hi everyone, I'm installing new coolant pipes/hoses/pump etc. I notice there are O rings which I don't plan on using any sealant for installation. However, I have a few gaskets that will need sealant such as the pipe that runs from the water pump to the passenger side head. Can I just run to Pep Boys and purchase any sealant?
Thank you.

Fri Jun 17, 2016 5:04 pm

You will get as many answers as there are products.......

For me? It's Hylomar Blue, my "go to" sealant. It Far exceeds in performance of any product I've used in five decades of wrenching.

http://www.hylomarsealant.com/_resources/_html/order.html?gclid=CL6c0qCjsM0CFdgIgQod_68LZw

Dave

Fri Jun 17, 2016 5:06 pm

Thank you DJ - I appreciate you sharing.

Fri Jun 17, 2016 5:33 pm

Yep, Hylomar is the stuff. I just used it to mate my DK transaxle bellhousing this morning. A few years ago, I bought a dozen tubes off of Amazon, and I'm through about half of them by now. I use it on everything.

Fri Jun 17, 2016 5:44 pm

http://gasgacinch.com

Fri Jun 17, 2016 5:49 pm

GM Engine Assembly Adhesive, hands down the best of the best.

And it's available at any local GM dealer parts counter.

Fri Jun 17, 2016 8:40 pm

Zeitgeist, T3, Terry:

TY for the suggestions. It's good to hear the different types. Not sure if I have time to order something online. I have to find something local tomorrow. Different options are good just in case.

Noah

Sat Jun 18, 2016 3:29 am

HondaBond is good stuff - available at the Honda Dealer.

Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:15 am

Sealer is used for three way junctions and items that did not have a gasket. Sealer is also used for technicians that refuse to prepare the gasket surface correctly.

FIPG [Toyota] and Hylomar Blue are my go to, if there are no gaskets or the gasket surface cannot be prepared properly. Hylomar does not dry and therefore can be easier to clean up later.

Remember, the sealer you see that is squeezed out is the amount that is wasted. You do not need that much. Just enough to see a little bit squeezed out.

Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:55 am

Terry, Vanagonjr and Butcher,
Ty for the info. I'm gonna just put a little bit on both sides of the gasket.

Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:01 pm

Butcher wrote: Sealer is also used for technicians that refuse to prepare the gasket surface correctly.

...

Nominee - Best Post of 2016 Award :wink:

Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:26 pm

I've always used Permatex #3 Aviation Gasket Sealer. HOWEVER, the new gasolines will eventually dissolve many of the old sealers. Permatex and others make gasket sealers that are compatible with alcohol laced fuel. CAVEAT UTILITOR.

Aloha
tp

Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:51 pm

Several recommendations for Hylomar Blue - I've used it and thought it good, but find Hylomar AF to be even better. It has no solvent so work time is infinite and it can be spread as thin as you like.

None of the Hylomars set up like RTV so easy disassembly and no 'noodles' getting loose inside the works.

Aviation-Form-a-Gasket is also very good - but for different applications that what I use Hylomar for.

Sun Jun 19, 2016 6:57 pm

I should add, that I was referring to HondaBond for a metal to metal, no gasket connection. Not saying it's not suitable for a gasketed joint, put I was not referring to such.

Sun Jun 19, 2016 7:16 pm

I personally have had great luck with loctite 518. A well respected engine builder Jake Raby, who has lots of proven success on and off the track recommended it to me years ago when I was working with him on a type 4 engine build for my 79 camper. I use it on any flanged surface where there is metal to metal, plastic to metal, orings. It's worked on all my engines wherever I use it. No leaks. It never hardens stays soft and pliable. I've had the same tube of stuff forever too. I do a nice bead around both surfaces im mating together and tighten the nuts or bolts to proper torque.

There is also a product called great stuff by permatex which I have also had success with but I haven't used a ton of it. Hopefully others can chime min on that.

I have heard the gm assembly stuff as mentioned is also a great sealant.

Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:02 pm

O rings are usually installed on items that may shift. Never use sealer on O rings. Grease would be much better to allow the seal to shift.

Mon Jun 20, 2016 5:30 am

Butcher wrote: O rings are usually installed on items that may shift. Never use sealer on O rings. Grease would be much better to allow the seal to shift.

Be wary of grease here, the orings can be harmed by the petrochemicals.

Dave

Mon Jun 20, 2016 6:31 am

^^^ Silicone OK? Or are o-rings best installed absolutely dry?

I seem to recall using graphite on the fuel sender o-ring...discuss...

Mon Jun 20, 2016 11:43 am

I use stopcock grease for burettes - silicone grease should be fine but check the spec.s on the container.

petroleum greases will eat up rubber

Mon Jun 20, 2016 12:22 pm

There is no single best product for all applications. The temperature, faying surface types, bond thickness, temperatures, and chemical environment must all be considered.

I will second the loctite 518 suggestion. It cures only between metal surfaces, so excess sealant wont plug up your oil or coolant lines. It remains flexible and has a good high temperature tolerance. Its chemical resistance is good to fair for most automotive chemicals. For good sealing make sure you observe the max/min bond thickness requirements. I have used it with good success on O-ring seals. In fact Rotax specifies 518 for sealing (and preventing corrosion) on there marine 2 stroke combustion sealing O-rings. I have used on several occasions to allow removal and re-use of hard to find gaskets. A light coating on a paper (or metal) gasket aids in removal down the line.

For thicker gaskets or as a gasket replacement I have also had good results with FIPG called The Right Stuff. It will fill much larger voids and cures rapidly.