| IdahoDoug |
Sun Jun 12, 2016 5:21 pm |
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| Id like to hone my cylinders in prep for new rings. Anybody have suggestion for grit and tool size. BRM brand seems good. What say ye? |
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| djkeev |
Sun Jun 12, 2016 5:32 pm |
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Not that critical, you aren't honing, you are deglazing.
Just go pick up a "dingleberry" hone and run it through a couple of times.
The factory cross hatch is probably still there and visible, you are only removing the time worn glaze over it.
Dave |
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| AtlasShrugged |
Sun Jun 12, 2016 6:12 pm |
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Idaho..just be sure the hone is sized for the bore diameter. |
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| IdahoDoug |
Sun Jun 12, 2016 11:29 pm |
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To be clear, I am going to use the dingleberry or "ball" hone shown above. But I still need advice on what grit - these are available in many different grits. I guess I could/should call the ring manufacturer, but thought I'd ask if anyone has thoughts on this. Atlas - thanks, I was figuring to find one for our bore size and then have it around if anyone else does this on their WBX. They are available in a bunch of sizes and grits.
Doug |
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| djkeev |
Mon Jun 13, 2016 1:35 am |
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From.....
http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html
"What GRIT should I order?
Hone grit is one of those topics that will vary vastly from OEM manufacturer, ring designer to professional engine builder and will depend on how bad the cylinder wear is and whether a deglaze will do the job . If you have a poor condition bore with rust or deep grooves you will need to use a 120 grit hone to remove the rust and remove the deep grooves. Then follow up with the appropriate grit depending on ring application. For a basic deglaze to refresh the engine just use the grit depending on ring type. EngineHones.com has built several engine mules (our guys race too!) to investigate the grit question with on-track results. The table below which was derived from our engines, ring manufactures and technical literature. Our best seller to commercial engine rebuilders and power-sports shops is the 240 grit hone. Our guidelines are as follows:
Iron Cylinder Ring Type:
OEM Iron rings: 180 or 240 grit
Chrome rings: 240 or 320 grit
Moly Rings: 320 or 400 grit
Plasma Rings: 320 or 400 grit
not sure ring type: 240 grit
Manufacturers Recommendation:
Hastings: 240 grit
Akerly & Childs (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Akerly & Childs (Moly): 400 grit
Perfect Circle (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Perfect Circle (Moly): 400 grit
Sealed Power (Moly): 400 grit
Speed Pro Hellfire (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Moly): 320-400 grit
Harley Davidson(stock): 320 grit
Wiseco (chrome top): 320 grit
Mahle (Moly/Chome top): 280 grit" |
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| IdahoDoug |
Mon Jun 13, 2016 8:38 am |
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| Dave - thank you for the links and the input. Cool the support and help here. |
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| IdahoDoug |
Mon Jun 13, 2016 10:10 pm |
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So, I ordered a 240 grit Flex-Hone and am excited to get this show on the road. Rings should be here in a couple days and I'll get the cylinders cleaned up and start bolting this girl together. One of the block oil plugs is weeping, so I'll be cleaning it, staking the edges with a punch, then filling it with epoxy. Easy to do when I can lay the block on its end to do this on all the plugs!
Doug |
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| jberger |
Tue Jun 14, 2016 8:36 am |
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IdahoDoug wrote: So, I ordered a 240 grit Flex-Hone and am excited to get this show on the road. Rings should be here in a couple days and I'll get the cylinders cleaned up and start bolting this girl together. One of the block oil plugs is weeping, so I'll be cleaning it, staking the edges with a punch, then filling it with epoxy. Easy to do when I can lay the block on its end to do this on all the plugs!
Doug
Why not just remove the plug, drill and tap for common NPT replacement? Get the Aluminum plugs so they have a similar expansion rate. IMO JB weld is good for one thing.. sitting next to the register at the FLAPS filling empty space.. |
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| Terry Kay |
Tue Jun 14, 2016 8:46 am |
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Why are you gluing the plug in Doug?
No confidence in your freeze plug installation?
I don't think I've seen heard of such an operation on a new plug. |
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| kalispell365 |
Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:04 am |
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The thing to keep in mind with a dingleberry hone is it will hone what's already inconsistent in the bore, the three stone hone will actually somewhat straighten out minute inconsistencies in the bore, even in a low mile motor.
In my shop, we only use three stone hone with ATF for just this reason, although like many other subjective topics like this there is rationale either way. I only build Subaru, so I get the joy of doing rings often nowadays... |
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| IdahoDoug |
Tue Jun 14, 2016 1:32 pm |
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Kalispel,
Yeah, I agree. I spoke with someone who's done a ton of true honing and he agrees the stones need experience. By contrast, a trained monkey can break the glaze with a ball hone. That would be me.
On the plug, I'm not up for drilling and tapping and dealing with the shavings, possible downside of my error, etc. The one plug looks to have leaked slightly, so my goal is to keep it from popping out with the staking, which will physically keep it from moving. Then the epoxy will provide a seal against leaking. I am comfortable that it's not going anywhere and neither will the other ones. I won't have a leaky engine, so this is preventative and to my mind it is permanent. |
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| djkeev |
Tue Jun 14, 2016 1:59 pm |
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IdahoDoug wrote: Kalispel,
Yeah, I agree. I spoke with someone who's done a ton of true honing and he agrees the stones need experience. By contrast, a trained monkey can break the glaze with a ball hone. That would be me.
On the plug, I'm not up for drilling and tapping and dealing with the shavings, possible downside of my error, etc. The one plug looks to have leaked slightly, so my goal is to keep it from popping out with the staking, which will physically keep it from moving. Then the epoxy will provide a seal against leaking. I am comfortable that it's not going anywhere and neither will the other ones. I won't have a leaky engine, so this is preventative and to my mind it is permanent.
I agree! ^^^
It is best to drill when the case is split and empty. A wandering magnesium alloy bit in an oil passage can destroy an engine! A split case allows you to flush out the oil passages.
WBX oil plugs don't seem to be much of an issue as the old Air Cooled units were.
My parents lost one on their brand new Late Model Bay in the midwest.
They were NOT happy........
Anyway, your plan is basically what I'd consider a "proper" fix.
Dave |
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