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Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:18 am

Hey everyone,

I've got a few questions about rust... hope you're up for it.

I just chanced upon this video while researching rust proofing methods, and I am really interested in your feedback on what you think of this method. It's a long video, so in short the guy is using a mixture of heated toilet wax gaskets and boiled linseed oil.

Is there anyone here who's tried it or got a suggestion for a better method?

I can't seem to find the wax he's using in the video in Sweden, do you know of products that use equivalent wax?

Me and my girlfriend have recently bought a vanagon from '87 who's been spending it's whole life inside a garage, yearly serviced, is virtually free of rust and in excellent condition. We would like to keep it that way of course, especially on the underbody/wheel arches, but can't seem to find a hands-down "this is the way to go"-answer.

What would you consider the best way of preventing rust on a rust-free vehicle?

We will be converting our vanagon to a camper, and have just recently bared all metal inside of the car, planning to insulate it. All seams and metal in the doors and floor are completely rust-free,

What rust proofing do we use to keep it that way, taking into consideration that we're putting insulation on top of it? The same as we would use for the underbody?

Super grateful for any info!
/Oscar

Mon Jan 04, 2016 10:54 am

They are just making a home brew of products that can be had commercially. Not sure what you can find local to where you are at, but I think Waxoyl is of European manufacture.

Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:09 am

Togos wrote: can't seem to find the wax he's using in the video in Sweden
Not Sweden, but here's a Waxoyl distributor at least in your part of the world .. maybe they'll know someone closer to you?

http://www.metalinas.dk/

Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:27 am

Noxudol
Pine tar based and ECO friendly.
I have sprayed over 200 liters of it.
Awesome stuff.

Mon Jan 04, 2016 12:03 pm

Togos wrote: Hey everyone,

I've got a few questions about rust... hope you're up for it.

I just chanced upon this video while researching rust proofing methods, and I am really interested in your feedback on what you think of this method. It's a long video, so in short the guy is using a mixture of heated toilet wax gaskets and boiled linseed oil.

Is there anyone here who's tried it or got a suggestion for a better method?

I can't seem to find the wax he's using in the video in Sweden, do you know of products that use equivalent wax?

Me and my girlfriend have recently bought a vanagon from '87 who's been spending it's whole life inside a garage, yearly serviced, is virtually free of rust and in excellent condition. We would like to keep it that way of course, especially on the underbody/wheel arches, but can't seem to find a hands-down "this is the way to go"-answer.

What would you consider the best way of preventing rust on a rust-free vehicle?

We will be converting our vanagon to a camper, and have just recently bared all metal inside of the car, planning to insulate it. All seams and metal in the doors and floor are completely rust-free,

What rust proofing do we use to keep it that way, taking into consideration that we're putting insulation on top of it? The same as we would use for the underbody?

Super grateful for any info!
/Oscar

1 Gal. Mineral Spirits
1 Lb. Ground up Paraffin or 2 Toilet bowl seals
1 qt. Non Detergent Oil 30w

Heat to melt wax. Spray on or Brush on.

Mon Jan 04, 2016 12:21 pm

I've been using this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOEvVW3_2L0 until I can afford proper undercoating/rust guard and complete bodywork and paint. I'm going to contact http://www.continentalautobody.ca/ because I'm told they're the ones for VW vans.

I spray the Goo everywhere and it's been working, only thing is dirt and grime stick to it so it looks not great.

Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:01 pm

Today i learned people collect stock late 80's 4 door caprice's :shock:

Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:20 pm

I bet Wurth sells in Sweden

Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:41 pm

Wurth does, but again Noxudol is local :wink:

Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:46 pm

local to Sweden?

do they have posters analogous to the Pirelli girls?

Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:12 pm

My Wurth Rep isn't calendar worthy one bit :!:

Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:22 pm

I use Lanotec on my salt lake racer. It is a lanolin based cavity wax, however being an Aussie I'm not sure if it is available elsewhere

The real trick to keeping a camper conversion not-rusty is to NOT insulate right to the edges and seams of the panels. You must provide some sort of air clearance to allow a little circulation behind cupboards, etc, into all nooks and crannies

Under the car, epoxy paint and/or the textured 'stoneguard' type treatment and decent mudflaps to reduce/prevent stone strike damage

HTH

Tue Jan 05, 2016 1:46 am

Hey everyone, I'm the other owner of the car

Somebody said on another forum that there are as many different ways to rustproof your car as there are owners of old cars.

I think Waxoyl is hard to get in Sweden.. Dinitrol is more common. We'll definitely check it out. Noxudol is available here as well! Lanotec not so sure... anyway thanks for a lot of good suggestions and replies!

It seems it's just down to choosing a product then, making some really good prep work in terms of cleaning and treating any existing rust, letting it dry out inside a garage and be super thorough.

Snow fell this morning... soon come the dreaded salt trucks.... >.<

/Sara

Tue Jan 05, 2016 10:37 am

snckiskexet wrote: Hey everyone, I'm the other owner of the car

Somebody said on another forum that there are as many different ways to rustproof your car as there are owners of old cars.

I think Waxoyl is hard to get in Sweden.. Dinitrol is more common. We'll definitely check it out. Noxudol is available here as well! Lanotec not so sure... anyway thanks for a lot of good suggestions and replies!

It seems it's just down to choosing a product then, making some really good prep work in terms of cleaning and treating any existing rust, letting it dry out inside a garage and be super thorough.

Snow fell this morning... soon come the dreaded salt trucks.... >.<

/Sara

Welcome Guys!

are you the people who bought that fire station Syncro? :twisted: 8)

Opie Oils sells some excellent wax in the UK, I cannot get it here in Hawai'i, but it's one of the best around: Dyna S-50
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-73830-bilt-hamber-dynax-s-50-extreme-duty-anti-corrosion-wax.aspx

They sell it in 5L jugs too.

Aloha!

Tue Jan 05, 2016 12:04 pm

The ultimate wonder medicine against rust that I know is a grease based stuff. In Germany and some European countries you can get it here:
http://www.mike-sander.de/ (There's also an English language button). And there are also some others who claim to have invented it (eg. Time Max, ...)

I'm also active in some old Mercedes forums and from there I got a DIY equivalent: cook 10% bee wax with 90% vaseline until you get a homogenous mass. That's all! It's a bit like butter when getting cold again.
One guy in that Mercedes forum even made a several years lasting test in a climate chamber according to some official automotive corrosion test procedures. There's no difference to the commercial version.

There are two possibilities to apply it:

The easy way is to heat it up with a hot air gun or in a pot and brush it wherever you want to have it. When I had my interior out completely I brushed it on all places where the rust likes to come out of the seams, also in places where some rust already appeared. After a hot summer, the grease started coming out at the outside of the body. You recognize it, when the dust starts glueing at the seams. The rust got stopped completely! I did it 10 years ago and I could fully conserve the status quo where I applied it.

The other (professional) possibility is, to heat the grease to about 90-120°C (195-250°F) and blow it with a pressure cavity wax gun into all cavities. You need about 5-8 kg (11-18 lbs) for a complete vanagon.

There's one important restriction: Do it after all welding and painting jobs! It immediately starts creeping once it gets warm.

Jens

Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:29 am

Jens Brownstar wrote:
...
I'm also active in some old Mercedes forums and from there I got a DIY equivalent: cook 10% bee wax with 90% vaseline until you get a homogenous mass.
...

Vaseline is a brand of petroleum jelly, what did you buy?
I guess you didn't go to the beauty shop like "ey, I wanna buy a barrel of skin lotion". :)

Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:29 am

Yes, Petroleum Jelly. ANY brand will work. Get the BIG jug from the Health Care aisle in your favorite supermarket.
Be sure to grab 100% stuff.
Beeswax should be pure too. I do a mixture of this for home remedies too. I add essential oils for various salves.

Wed Jan 06, 2016 10:23 am

ALIKA T3 wrote:
Welcome Guys!

are you the people who bought that fire station Syncro? :twisted: 8) (...)

Thanks! Yes that's us! We love its look but it certainly isn't stealth... going to post it on here soon! Where did you see it? Opie Oils, unfortunately we don't have it here in Sweden :cry:

Jens Brownstar wrote:
The ultimate wonder medicine (...)

Team WorlTour wrote:
Yes, Petroleum Jelly (...)

This sounds like the stuff we're looking for! Thanks a lot! Really nice to get a "recipe".

One thing that concerns me though, since we are looking to insulate the van after rust proofing. We want to rust proof it inside of course, but will it make it problematic with having this sticky grease-based stuff and then gluing an insulating "carpet" onto that? Should we not glue? But we don't want air pockets in between the first insulation layer and the metal right? It seems as though drastic temperature changes could create condensation in any air pockets...

Thanks again!

Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:05 pm

snckiskexet wrote:
This sounds like the stuff we're looking for! Thanks a lot! Really nice to get a "recipe".

One thing that concerns me though, since we are looking to insulate the van after rust proofing. We want to rust proof it inside of course, but will it make it problematic with having this sticky grease-based stuff and then gluing an insulating "carpet" onto that? Should we not glue? But we don't want air pockets in between the first insulation layer and the metal right? It seems as though drastic temperature changes could create condensation in any air pockets...

You mainly need it at the seams. Brush it in the inside to avoid applying it to areas where you want to glue the insulation. Or brush it after insulating.
For all cavities use air pressure and blow it inside like normal cavity wax.

For outside underground areas use a mixture with 20% bee wax. Makes it more resistant to spraying water.

svenakela wrote:
Vaseline is a brand of petroleum jelly, what did you buy?
I guess you didn't go to the beauty shop like "ey, I wanna buy a barrel of skin lotion".

In Germany, vaseline isn't a brand, it's the only name we have. We only distinguish between technical and medical vaseline. I myself bought the Mike Sanders stuff. The price difference isn't that much that I start cooking it myself.
:wink:

Thu Jan 07, 2016 4:03 am

Jens Brownstar wrote:

You mainly need it at the seams. Brush it in the inside to avoid applying it to areas where you want to glue the insulation. Or brush it after insulating.
For all cavities use air pressure and blow it inside like normal cavity wax.

For outside underground areas use a mixture with 20% bee wax. Makes it more resistant to spraying water.

Ok thanks! That's a good solution.