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Sun Dec 06, 2015 8:51 pm

SteveVanB wrote: Well, FWIW, Ive been putting the peanut oil on ever since I first learned about it. I apply it every 6 months or so, sometimes sooner simply because I dig the way it smells. I use an old squirt bottle to spray it on...I can definitely say, without conviction, that it is slowing down the rust. A buddy of mine thinks I'm crazy for using it. But I haven't had to replace exhaust parts for a few years now either... 8)

Thanks for the post.
I will find an old sprayer and try it.
I applied it to thickly at first.
Getting ready to reapply soon

Sun Dec 06, 2015 10:33 pm

the sprayer I use isn't like a constant pumping deal--it's a like a hand held garden sprayer---load it up and pull the trigger--point & shoot.

Mon Dec 07, 2015 6:01 pm

outcaststudios wrote: why dont you say it with conviction?
Good question....

Mon Dec 07, 2015 7:42 pm

:wink:

Fri Jan 15, 2016 11:50 am

Salted peanut oil pipe :wink:

Sat Jan 16, 2016 11:30 pm

Not meaning to seem blind but from what I can see the pipe seems to be holding up well if it's been subjected to road salt.

Recall you were trying PO treatment on both a fairly clean pipe and a rusty one on another rig. Have you experimented enough to draw any conclusions yet ?

Sun Jan 17, 2016 6:55 am

You guys know that metal workers/welders have been using oil on hot steel treatment to blacken the steel, both for looks and protection, right?

Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:21 pm

After fixing the exhaust leak at the collector I did the second coating of peanut oil on the pipes. I tweaked my application system and now have it dialed. First, put on some nitrile gloves to keep the oil off your skin. Next, cotton gloves, the ones without any kind of palm covering; you want the plainest ones you can get that will be thoroughly permeated with the oil. This will permit you to reach nearly every nook and cranny, and you can easily reach up on top of the muffler or wherever. Much better than a rag. Third, it helps if you leave the oil out in the cold overnight. Turns it into a light gel that is easy to brush on without running all over the place. It does thin out with use while applying it, right about the time you're ready to use the gloves to spread it further.

Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:56 pm

^^^ Looks like something from CSI.....

Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:04 pm

dobryan wrote: ^^^ Looks like something from CSI.....
...but it smells much better!

Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:04 pm

Great tips...nice write-up! 8)

Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:11 pm

campism wrote: After fixing the exhaust leak at the collector I did the second coating of peanut oil on the pipes. I tweaked my application system and now have it dialed. First, put on some nitrile gloves to keep the oil off your skin. Next, cotton gloves, the ones without any kind of palm covering; you want the plainest ones you can get that will be thoroughly permeated with the oil. This will permit you to reach nearly every nook and cranny, and you can easily reach up on top of the muffler or wherever. Much better than a rag. Third, it helps if you leave the oil out in the cold overnight. Turns it into a light gel that is easy to brush on without running all over the place. It does thin out with use while applying it, right about the time you're ready to use the gloves to spread it further.

nice trick! Thats what i will do next year.
:wink: :wink: :wink:

Tue Mar 29, 2016 6:45 pm

So, this might be another thread, point me that way if you know of one.

What are people's opinion of spraying pipes with high heat paint and then wrapping them? I do this on all of my old bikes. Has worked well for me over the years, but all of the pipes have been stainless.

What say yee?

Fri Apr 22, 2016 4:24 pm

Phaedrus wrote: So, this might be another thread, point me that way if you know of one.

What are people's opinion of spraying pipes with high heat paint and then wrapping them? I do this on all of my old bikes. Has worked well for me over the years, but all of the pipes have been stainless.

What say yee?
Sorry, I don't know what to answer to this one... Anyone? Bueller?

Fri Apr 22, 2016 4:51 pm

From page 2.
Here is the exhaust initialy...
pedrokrusher wrote: Its sunday, not everyone has had the chance to read thesamba, so for sure other people will shim in tomorrow, monday. Patience my friends... Patience...

Well in the mean time, i decided to test this myself! I went to the grocecy store and bought peanut oil, and transfered the oil in a used peanut butter plastic jar for ease of use with a brush...

I cannot test this on one of my vanagons since they are in storage for winter, i decided to use it on my one off oversees special edition volkswagen rubicon edition... (Shhhhh..... Please dont say anything to the moderators or they will eliminate the pics since its actually my 2009 jeep wrangler rubicon)

At this point i applied the peanut oil on half of the muffler to show the difference between the dry area and the applied peanut oil. Here you can see a very used, at the end of its usefull life old aftermarket cheesy exhaust muffler. I had to flake off the layers of rust before application... :shock: wow thank you previous owner... The rest of the original exhaust system is actually very good.

All exhaust system had a generous application of peanut oil... The junction on the left of the pic is what separates the original exhaust system from the aftermarket muffler.

Went for a half hour drive and the first 15 minutes the smell was overwelming when you stopped. I stopped and checked, the oil was burned off close to the engine, and the metal looked darker. The muffler was still with a wet appearence, but less. Obviously it is not as hot at the end of the exhaust system. It got too dark for pictures. Tomorrow i will post pics... What i can say now is that its much less wet to the touch, and less smelly too. It needs a couple more drives...

Thats it for now!

(Edit: please mods, keep the pics! We don't have much going on so far... I promise i will find a VW to coat it...)

From page 3.
Here it is after the third coat...
pedrokrusher wrote: So i drove once yesterday, then this morning going to work, then driving back home. This how it looks like for the second coating of peanut oil.

Now applying the 3rd coat.

And after a half hour drive.

Here it is now after all winter on salt roads.

I scrapped it with a wire brush.

It seemed it helped me go tru another winter salted roads with this pretty old rusty exhaust. Not much more...
Some small flakes are coming out of the bent tube, loosing some more metal.
The exhaust itself is not too bad.
The other original pipes seems better than the aftermarket exhaust.
An exhaust shop had told me, before the oil treament, that it would not go tru a winter salted road. I guess it did!

It is what it is! Experiment done!
What do you guys think?
Whats the news with everyone elses experiment?

Fri Apr 22, 2016 5:47 pm

outcaststudios wrote: hi! glad youre interested ( iam a total dork about metal!)

metals are made up of tightly packed crystals,theer is a 'space' between the crystals that allows both moisture and other fluids(oil,especially hot oil because it becomes less viscous) to penetrate beneath the surface so to speak. this is why polishing a piece of metal will help keep it 'watertight' becasue you are tightening the grain structure on the surface. eventually ambient moisture makes its way into the metal and hangs out there causing rust etc on ferrous metals. if you fill the voids with the oil and the oil when burned leaves behind a fatty residue this essentially blocks and slows the penetration of moisture into the same spaces. we use linseed oil to bond sand for casting but there are reasons that we woudl use other oils for this process. wax is also used but that obviously burns off over 175 degrees. for the exhaust scenario you have a piece of mild steel being repeatedly heated and cooled which wreaks havoc on the structure and causes annealing to occur and softening of the metal among other things, that is why exhausts have a short lifespan and also why using stainless steel(nickel) changes the operating temps of the metal thus prolonging its service lifespan. the idea of imbuing the steel with peanut oil which has a very thin viscosity compared to linseed oil even when hot, is a solid example of outsmarting the structure of the steel and winning the war against rust :)

the grain bounderies in the exhaust steel are generally too tight for oil to penetrate. if that were not true, your oil pans would leak, even gasoline tanks would leak. the seasoning process is a surface treatment. if you want metals to have oils penatrate them, then consider a material like Oillite bronze, a metal made from powedered metals and slightly sintered to all a porous structure. this is completely different that the steel from which our exhausts are made from. rusted steel may absorb oils, as the surface or the rust is pourus or rough.

to anneal mild steel you need temperatures in excess of 700C, far hotter than most of the exhaust system ever will get. (700C is getting into the red heat range)

exhausts made of mild steel have a short life do to corrosion, not annealing, the exhaust systems are not softened by annealing at normal use temperatures. it is corrosion that is the primary failure mode of mild steel exhaust parts, not softening via annealing, as annealing does not occur at typical temperatures seen on street cars.

heat can accelerate corrosion. heat accelerates many chemical reactions, often a doubling of first order reaction rates for each 10C increase. assuming the reaction is not in the transport limiting regime, but in the rate limiting regime.

mild steel goes thru a volume increase when it oxidizes, which forms the flaky rust so often seen. that flaky nature leads to entrapment of corrosive compounds or it flakes off exposing fresh material to the corrosive enviroment and thus futher corrosion, hence the need to remove flaky rust prior to corrosion protection such as painting or seasoning with oils.

Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:08 pm

Careful, you are applying actual science and metallurgy to an old wive's tale here - bad things will result.

By way of constructive input, I would think the hotter the pipes, the more likely the peanut oil (and any fatty residue) would burn off. Since these pictures show a section of the exhaust not being protected through a single winter, that is 6 feet from the engine, I'd think it would be a fail for all parts forward of this as well. The logic being that all points forward toward the engine are progressively hotter. That calls its use on a short Vanagon exhaust into question as well.

Having said that, and making my personal contribution to the old wives tale, it may be that the peanut oil has to be hotter than this exhaust section for the mythical transformation into a metal-protecting hard resinous substance. Could be.

Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:35 pm

True the heat may not be right on all parts of the exhaust for proper seasoning. 350 to 400F is one recommended seasoning temp for cast iron cooking pans. see link

Also note in the short video attached in link that rust is too be removed for seasoning to be performed. seasoning a rusty exhaust is not optimal.

Also note in the link that seasoning is to be performed with small amounts of oil spread thin to avoid a sticky mess, and that repeat applications of thin coats of oil is needed. (one probelm with rusty metal can be the rough rusty surface holds too much oil.)

link to Lodge Cast Iron Seasoning Instructions...

https://www.lodgemfg.com/use-and-care/seasoned-cast-iron-use-and-care.asp

till rust do us part :cry:

Fri Apr 22, 2016 9:12 pm

My mouth waters every time I read this thread.

Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:10 pm

if you re-read what i wrote i basically am saying the same thing as you are.

youre just trying to find fault with it. i said that the oil lays ON THE SURFACE BETWEEN (or in 'valleys') of course the metal isnt porous that would be ridiculous. i was oversimplifying the process for the sake of discussion. however you also go onto say that the oil treatment does work by blocking water from entering the same valleys of which i was speaking of. i know when you see my username its impossible for you to control your need to correct everything i say for no reason,but please refrain form putting words in my mouth. you can read above. metal holds neither oil nor water. if you weigh a piece of steel and then heat it up ,it weighs the same, so we know that it cant hold moisture inside of it. if you put oil on the surface of steel and then burn it in it will help protect the steel form being penetrated by water, salt is another matter entirely and as you know as a metallurgist the salt is the real killer here,not just the water. so tell us then why the salt doesnt use the oil as a way to enter the metal? or does it? youre the expert ,instead of just coming in and trying to one up me, you could contribute and help explain the process more .or you could just stop posting in the thread,your call.