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Mon Oct 12, 2015 5:00 am

70 bug
Blinkers and brake lights work fine.
Dual filament (1156) tail lights get super hot and burn out every two weeks.
I want to run single filament.
1154 doesn't work. They don't fit and won't light up.
I've noticed the auto parts store has 1154A and 1154B. Whats the difference?
Does anyone know of a single filament bulb that will work in a 70 bug's tail lights?

Mon Oct 12, 2015 5:23 am

You can't install a single filament bulb in a dual filament bulb holder. The dual bulb has two contact points and the single has ... one.

The wiring on your tail lights may be incorrect. Park lights should be dim (the low side of a dual bulb) and brake lights should be bright (the high side of the dual bulb).

Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:33 am

Why did the VW engineers design it that way? Wouldn't a single filament bulb have worked just fine in that application?

And I still would like to know what is the difference between an 1154, 1154A and 1154B.

Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:47 am

1970:

Top in housing is for turn signal and emergency flasher, single filament.

Center is dual filament for tail light and brake light (the brighter of the two).

Lower is revers lamp, single filament.

1156 is single filament, and 1157 is dual filament. Some have managed to install dual filament bulbs incorrectly, the recess pins are different lengths for a reason.

There are long life dual filament versions available, and also I believe LED replacements.

Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:49 am

Kiptere wrote: Why did cars' engineers design it that way? Wouldn't a single filament bulb have worked just fine in that application?

And I still would like to know what is the difference between an 1154, 1154A and 1154B.

Fixed that for you.

Because:

1. Manufacturers needed a way to get two brightness levels out of one bulb; dim low wattage filament for tail light and a high wattage filament for brake light. This configuration is not unique to VW in any way.

2. No. A single-filament bult in a dual housing will short the two circuits together.

3. I'm not sure either, but usually means the same type of bulb comes with a color coating IIRC.

Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:09 am

If, at night, you want your brake lights to get brighter than your running lights, you are going to have to put up with a dual filament light bulb. Sorry dude.
Same goes if you want functional running lights and blinkers up front.

Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:27 am

Im not a bug vet but one thing I certainly know about youe isue is this. If youe bulbs are blowing that fast and getting as hot as your describing, then you have a bad ground. Either in the socket (corrosion) or lose or failing grounds. Just my 2 cents. Sorry for bad typing and double post, im on my phone and these touch screens just seem to do what they will lol.

Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:06 am

Kiptere wrote: 70 bug
Blinkers and brake lights work fine.
Dual filament (1156) tail lights get super hot and burn out every two weeks.
I want to run single filament.
1154 doesn't work. They don't fit and won't light up.
I've noticed the auto parts store has 1154A and 1154B. Whats the difference?
Does anyone know of a single filament bulb that will work in a 70 bug's tail lights?
Are you sure you are using the correct bulbs???
#1156 is a single filament 12v/21W
#1157 is a dual filament 12v/5W/21W
#1154 is a dual filament 6v/5W/17W

If you have installed a 6V bulb in your 12v tail light... I could understand why it gets hot and burns out. Get your hands on an #1157 bulb and you should be okay.

Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:48 am

Thanks for all the replies. I got some 1157 bulbs.

Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:27 am

Well, that makes sense. ](*,)

Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:27 pm

Just an FYI - IF the bulbs are 12V bulbs and they are blowing out in a couple weeks then you have a charging issue and you are putting out too much voltage.

Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:44 pm

andk5591 wrote: Just an FYI - IF the bulbs are 12V bulbs and they are blowing out in a couple weeks then you have a charging issue and you are putting out too much voltage.

I think he'd lose the parking lights and instrument lights if that was the case. I had that happen on a 1979 Toyota truck, faulty alternator, drove home at night with headlights and emergency flashers, guess the on-off of the flashers prevented those bulbs from burning out. Yes, I saw the interior lights go very bright before they blew.

Tue Oct 13, 2015 3:48 am

I know what you are saying, but the only way to blow a bulb prematurely is to hit it with too much voltage unless I am wrong.......OK thinking about this a little more and I may be wrong.....Where is Ashman40 when you need him?

Can you miswire in a manner that you would be drawing too much current through the bulb? Thinking this can be the case.

I just fixed the headlight wiring on a super yesterday which were miswired. Ground was connected to the center pin. The one socket looked like it was getting hot.....any insight from others on this as a possible cause for the OP?

Tue Oct 13, 2015 4:16 am

Kiptere wrote: Why did the VW engineers design it that way? Wouldn't a single filament bulb have worked just fine in that application?

And I still would like to know what is the difference between an 1154, 1154A and 1154B.

probably manufacturer or country of origin

1154DCY USA
I/6.4V/21CP/3CP/BAY15D/S8/CL/200H/1000H
can also be
Cross-Reference:

3BA62 GRAINGER
6.4-16.8-13DF CANIMPEX
6.4-16.8-13DF MICROLITES
67.01.154 LOHUIS
1006 TUNGSRAM
1008 TUNGSRAM
1083 TUNGSRAM
1154-BLISTER-PACK EIKO
1154-BP EIKO
1154-BP USA
1154-FLOSSER PHILIPS
1154-PHILIPS NORELCO
1154-USA NORELCO
1154/6V/21CP/3CP CANDLEPOWER-INCORPORATED
1154/6V/21CP/3CP USA
1154/6.3/7V/2.63A/0.75A CEC
1154/6.3/7V/2.63A/0.75A USA
1154/6.3V/7V/2.63A/0.75A USA
1154/6.4V/18W/6W USA
1154/BP2 GENERAL-ELECTRIC
1154/S-8/D.C.INDEX/6.3/7.0V/2.63/.75A/21/3MSCP/C-6/C-6/2.00MOL/1.25LCL/200/1000H/AUTO-PARK-TAIL-SIGNAL PACIFIC-ELECTRONICS
1154/S8-6.3V-2.63A-DC-INDEX LAMPTECH
1154 AC-DELCO
1154 CANDLEPOWER-INCORPORATED
1154 CEC
1154 CHICAGO-MINIATURE
1154 CPI
1154 DONSBULBS
1154 EDISON-COMPANY
1154 EIKO
1154 FLOSSER
1154 GENERAL-ELECTRIC
1154 GUIDE
1154 INTERLIGHT
1154 LAMPTECH
1154 LECTRA
1154 LUGON
1154 MAZDA
1154 MICRO-LAMPS
1154 NORELCO
1154 NORMAN
1154 OSRAM
1154 PACIFIC-ELECTRONICS
1154 PHILIPS
1154 SATCO
1154 SHOGYO
1154 USA
1154BP CEC
1154DCY USA
2703 OSRAM
12297 GENERAL-ELECTRIC
13465 FORD
35481-1 MILITARY-STANDARD
40121 EIKO
40121 UPC
40186 EIKO
40186 UPC
145416 GUIDE
1550962 GENERAL-MOTORS
031293401861 EIKO
045923069567 SATCO
AM1154 AMERICAN-MINI-LAMP-INCORPERATED
ET-6-13465 FORD
FLOOSRAM1154 VERMEER-AUTO-PARTS
I/6.3V/7V/2.63A/0.75A/BAY15D/S8
I/6.3V/16.6W/5.3W/BAY15D/S8/200H/1000H/1154 USA
I/6.3V/16.6W/5.3W/BAY15D/S8/1154 USA
I/6.3V/16.6W/5.3W/BAY15D/S8/CL/200H/1000H/1154 USA
I/6.3V/21CP/3CP/BAY15D/S8/CL/200H/1000H/1154DCY USA
I/6.4V/21CP/3CP/BAY15D/S8/CL/200H/1000H/1154DCY USA
I/6.4V/21CP/3CP/BAY15D/S8/CL/200H/1000H 1154DCY USA
L1154 AC-DELCO
MB-11540
ML-1154 MICRO-LAMPS
ML1154 MICRO-LAMPS
S6956 SATCO

Tue Oct 13, 2015 4:48 am

1970 6 volt?

1156 1157 12volt

1154 6 volt

a b c suffixes could also indicate plated or plain brass base etc

Tue Oct 13, 2015 6:20 am

I always throught the "A" suffix was for "Amber" colored bulbs. Don't see those too much anymore. They do make a tint paint that you can apply to bulb to turn them amber/red/blue.

Tue Oct 13, 2015 6:38 am

andk5591 wrote: I know what you are saying, but the only way to blow a bulb prematurely is to hit it with too much voltage unless I am wrong.......OK thinking about this a little more and I may be wrong.....Where is Ashman40 when you need him?

I think the original poster got correct 1157 bulbs and no longer has the problem, why he hasn't updated.

No, with a working charging system there is no way to wire up to get more than 12 volts there.

Fri Oct 16, 2015 6:24 am

My bug is a weekend driver.

OK, Fixed the tail lights Wed. night. Got the proper bulbs and tested everything. Everything worked great.

Drove to work this morning (in the dark). When I got to work I left the engine running and got out just to double check everything thing was working. Dagnamit! Driver's side tail light is out again. So is driver's side brake light. All that stuff was working when I left the house. I haven't got into it yet, but I'll bet anything the bulbs are burnt out again.

Fri Oct 16, 2015 6:46 am

This ain't magic, get out your meter and start checking battery voltage at different rpm. You may have a defective/dying voltage regulator that is allowing big voltage spikes.

Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:22 am

The voltage regulator isn't 5 months old. Bosch solid state.