TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Oct 09, 2015 7:43 am

Ive been searching and reading different posts on sealing seams, and am about to this point on my new floor pans.

I have a few questions for those that have "been there, done that".

Is there one sealer that holds up better than the others in the exposed to the elements areas. Under the pans, along the Napoleans hat, ect.

And what are y'alls thoughts on steps of application?
Seal, prime, paint.
Prime, seal, paint.
Prime, paint, seal.

Thanks in advance.

Fri Oct 09, 2015 8:49 am

Prime, paint, seal
Ive had good luck with 3M or SEM

Fri Oct 09, 2015 10:51 am

SEm and 3M make good products. besure you get a water proof flexible sealer. some sealers are NOT water proof and intended only for inside the vehicle. they are loaded with talc as a filler and will absorb water (disaster!!!) so specify water proof!!!!

I have done PPG DP Primer (two part epoxy primer that IS water proof) Note some primers are NOT water proof, don't use them here!!!) Most ep[oxy based primers are very good for this application, The DP series of epoxy primers is easy to work with, reasonable pot life (after mixing) and cure fast.

then put on a compatible seam sealer, I used an Urethane based sealer on the bottom of my 356 that got new pans welded in.
I followed that up by a second coat of DP epoxy primer followed by Wurth under coating, which is water based, (easy clean up) you need a special gun to shoot it, Wurth sells a pricey gun, but you can purchase cheaper ones that work fine.
Of course the 356 came with a factory undercoat on the underside, the Bugs did not, so follow with the correct sheen black paint under the Bug.

DP Primer can be purchased in many colors, Black, red/brown, white, grey, etc... Pick a color that is close to what you final color will be.

If you use an acid based prep on the bare metal, make sure your primer and subsequent coatings are compatible over acid washed metal. some paints will not cure properly on an acidic surface. get on manufacturers website and look up the detailed instructions, figure out compatibility. Most of the big name paint product companies have free phone advice if you have question about compatibility. don't skimp on figuring out compatibility of the layers, it can make or break the project.

so the big thing is WATER PROOOF primers and seam sealers, make sure the coats are all COMPATIBLE with each other and with any prior acid etching performed. Do not hesitate to go to the makers website for info, and/or call them with specific questions.

follow instruction on proper viscosity of the paints, and recommend spray pressures etc.. also make sure you air supply for the sprayers is filtered, and you have a water /oil trap as air compressors will introduce water and maybe oil into the air stream (some compressors are oil free).

I do not like putting a seam sealer over bare metal, although some are advertised to be applied that way as an option, I prefer the epoxy primer over all bare metal first.

good luck 8) 8) 8)

Fri Oct 09, 2015 1:18 pm

Thanks for the replies and info. I was planning on using an epoxy primer, and had just assumed most seam sealers would be water proof. Ill make sure I verify that what im purchasing is in fact water proof.

Thanks again

Fri Oct 09, 2015 6:32 pm

I use DAP Alex Plus 50 year sealant (black) inside and out. $2 something a tube. Paint sticks to it great.

Sat Oct 10, 2015 10:26 am

I would prime, seal, then paint.

Sun Oct 11, 2015 3:36 am

runamoc wrote: I use DAP Alex Plus 50 year sealant (black) inside and out. $2 something a tube.

Do you have a source for that? I'm only finding the 35 year stuff. The one supplier I found of the 50 year is out of stock.

Sun Oct 11, 2015 7:34 am

Alex plus is acrylic latex caulk with silicone and you should be able to find it in most home centers, lumber yards and hardware stores that sell home building materials. It comes in multiple colors.

Sun Oct 11, 2015 8:09 am

I like Fusor 805HD for stuff I want a nice thick or wide pattern that stays put. You can brush it, use it with a caulking gun in a bead, or spray it with a special gun. I usually use this on floors and trunks. shoot a bead along where I want it, then take a 2" brush and run the brush over it for a factory look. It has a long wok time.
For stuff I want to look better and you will see once the car is done, I use 3M 08308 heavy body seam sealer. Decent work time, but make haste.
And for stuff you want to look really really good once it done (I use this on rain channels and where door skins meet the door frame etc..) I use 3m 08307 self leveling seam sealer. The self leveling is almost runny, so you should mask around the places you use it in case it runs. And pull the masking off before it starts to dry so you dont have a hard tape line. This stuff sets up pretty quick so be ready to pull the tape almost as soon as you have it spread. You can brush this too, and it will smooth back out before it drys with no brush marks.

Sun Oct 11, 2015 2:42 pm

Quote: only finding the 35 year stuff

Here is a photo of the tube. DYNAFLEX 230. Paintable and water proof and comes in black, and some other colors. The 50 year guarantee is on the side in the fine print.

Kinda hard to see, but it's the first thing in blue. I got this at the Lowes on Laburnum Ave.

Sun Oct 11, 2015 4:44 pm

runamoc wrote:
I got this at the Lowes on Laburnum Ave.

Thanks