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Mon Jun 13, 2022 12:10 pm

busman78 wrote: Bus-OK is in the city of Echt, which is located in Limburg Providence in The Netherlands, no Holland.

I have long been familiar with the distinction of Holland being a region within The Netherlands, but MANY people whose first language is ENGLISH (as distinct from American English), think of the low-lying country adjacent to Belgium and Germany, as being Holland rather than The Netherlands. :oops:

This ignorance might also apply to other nationalities, including those in North America, but I am not in a position to comment on them. :wink:

Thu Jun 23, 2022 10:39 am

Thu Jun 23, 2022 10:49 am

Blackpony wrote: :bay_white: Any links to US based supplier of heated front windshields?

Will Bay Window Bus charging system handle the power required to heat the windshield?

Is a special switch required, i.e. timer, or over heat protection, to automatically shut off heat?

My 2012, Porsche Cayenne has a heated front windshield. Best option to have available. Use the system all Winter.

:vw: Thanks

Alan Brase wrote: I don't think it would take a lot, maybe 10-20 amps. Optional 38 amp generator might handle it.

FWIW, Porsche Carrera 4cam cars had heated glass in 1960-62 ish. Must have made at least 10-12 of them? Originally GT's deleted heater boxes and ducts to save weight. but in endurance racing, sometimes one needs to see out the glass in less than perfect weather. Sebring and LeMans and rallies for sure encounter rain.

NASkeet wrote:
I vaguely recall suggesting an electrical switching circuit with a double-throw switch & relays, whereby the left & right hand zones (2 x 19A rating) can only be switched on separately.

This is what I shall use, when I finally get around to removing my original factory-fitted zone-toughened (i.e. tempered) front windscreen to refurbish the paintwork surrounding the windscreen, after which I shall substitute an electrically-heated, laminated front windscreen which are readily available in Great Britain.

In my '99 Mercedes G500 with the heated windshield, the factory supplies a 100 AH stock battery compared to 80AH for the same vehicle without the heated glass. I think the main component is going to be battery juice as it is only on for 5-10 minutes at a time to demist or deice the glass.

Nigel, I would suggest eliminating the tempered glass windshield ASAP, a hard rock hitting that glass at highway speeds will cause the entire glass panel to explode into a 1000 pieces!

Thu Jun 23, 2022 10:51 am

NASkeet wrote: It appears that the custom-made, electrically-heated, laminated front windscreens for classic cars, supplied by Ricky Evans Motorsport, might actually be produced by a small, specialist company called Tyneside Safety Glass.

On British television-channel Quest (i.e. Freeview channels 12 & 70), Tyneside Safety Glass and Ricky Evans Motorsport were featured during an episode of Salvage Hunters: Classic Cars, screened on Wednesday, 26th January 2022. The program briefly showed how the new, substitute, electrically-heated, laminated front windscreen was made at Tyneside Safety Glass.

Thank you for that information Nigel. I recently heard back from a Ricky Evans representative. It looks like they will be shipping me 3 front heated wind screens to PDX including insurance against damage.

Assuming all three arrive undamaged, I will be selling the two extra remaining windshields. I will handle international freight customs at PDX which I have done before. I will sell the additional glass pieces for $500 each once they are landed and inspected. At this point I am not sure if wiring and relay is included, but I will follow up.

My bus has the glass out for repaint and my old glass has a couple of big chips in it, so I don't think it would survive reinstallation. Buying this glass is expensive, but maybe there is some savings not replacing the standard Bay glass and getting these instead.

Thu Jun 23, 2022 12:24 pm

My '79 has a new windshield and I have to say that a new windshield is the best way to go. There is nothing in the world like looking out at creation from the front seats of a Bay Window with unmarred glass. As beautifully as your Bus is coming along Otiswesty, I definitely agree that a new heated windshield would do it justice. Congratulations on scoring three.

Could the heated windshield be connected to the rear window defrost switch?

Thu Jun 23, 2022 3:42 pm

You can see in these pictures on the Bus-OK website, the glass has many small wires between the laminated glass layers. Some people actually object to the loss of some clarity, but I find it unobtrusive.
https://bus-ok.nl/Heated-Front-Windscreen

I'm not sure what the factory switch set up is for these, but it could be done using another rear heated window switch. I wouldn't wire them together due to the high amperage draw.

Fri Jun 24, 2022 12:59 pm

otiswesty wrote: NASkeet wrote: It appears that the custom-made, electrically-heated, laminated front windscreens for classic cars, supplied by Ricky Evans Motorsport, might actually be produced by a small, specialist company called Tyneside Safety Glass.

On British television-channel Quest (i.e. Freeview channels 12 & 70), Tyneside Safety Glass and Ricky Evans Motorsport were featured during an episode of Salvage Hunters: Classic Cars, screened on Wednesday, 26th January 2022. The program briefly showed how the new, substitute, electrically-heated, laminated front windscreen was made at Tyneside Safety Glass.

Thank you for that information Nigel. I recently heard back from a Ricky Evans representative. It looks like they will be shipping me 3 front heated wind screens to PDX including insurance against damage.

Assuming all three arrive undamaged, I will be selling the two extra remaining windshields. I will handle international freight customs at PDX which I have done before. I will sell the additional glass pieces for $500 each once they are landed and inspected. At this point I am not sure if wiring and relay is included, but I will follow up.

My bus has the glass out for repaint and my old glass has a couple of big chips in it, so I don't think it would survive reinstallation. Buying this glass is expensive, but maybe there is some savings not replacing the standard Bay glass and getting these instead.

creative native wrote: My '79 has a new windshield and I have to say that a new windshield is the best way to go. There is nothing in the world like looking out at creation from the front seats of a Bay Window with unmarred glass. As beautifully as your Bus is coming along Otiswesty, I definitely agree that a new heated windshield would do it justice. Congratulations on scoring three.

Could the heated windshield be connected to the rear window defrost switch?

otiswesty wrote: You can see in these pictures on the Bus-OK website, the glass has many small wires between the laminated glass layers. Some people actually object to the loss of some clarity, but I find it unobtrusive.
https://bus-ok.nl/Heated-Front-Windscreen

I'm not sure what the factory switch set up is for these, but it could be done using another rear heated window switch. I wouldn't wire them together due to the high amperage draw.

There was NO factory-setup for the 1968~79 VW Type 2, because electrically-heated front windscreens were NEVER a factory-fitted option!

To the best of my knowledge, they were an after-market product that was specifically created in Great Britain, during circa 1997/98, for the new Brazilian-built, "bay-window" VW 1600 Type 2c models that were being imported into Great Britain, by Beetles (UK) Ltd [took over the Danbury motor-caravan brand], who installed them or arranged to have them installed.

1968~79 VW Type 2 electrically-heated front windscreens on sale at Bus-OK in The Netherlands

If you really want to find out about the electrical circuit and components used, I suggest posing the question on the Brazilian VW Bay forum based in Great Britain.

https://brazilianvwbay.forumotion.com

https://brazilianvwbay.forumotion.com/c2-maintenance-technical

However, I would also suggest that my proposed circuit, outlined on Page 3 of this topic thread is likely to be far superior! :roll: :)

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=40

Sat Jul 02, 2022 10:23 am

otiswesty wrote: NASkeet wrote: It appears that the custom-made, electrically-heated, laminated front windscreens for classic cars, supplied by Ricky Evans Motorsport, might actually be produced by a small, specialist company called Tyneside Safety Glass.

On British television-channel Quest (i.e. Freeview channels 12 & 70), Tyneside Safety Glass and Ricky Evans Motorsport were featured during an episode of Salvage Hunters: Classic Cars, screened on Wednesday, 26th January 2022. The program briefly showed how the new, substitute, electrically-heated, laminated front windscreen was made at Tyneside Safety Glass.

Thank you for that information Nigel. I recently heard back from a Ricky Evans representative. It looks like they will be shipping me 3 front heated wind screens to PDX including insurance against damage.

Assuming all three arrive undamaged, I will be selling the two extra remaining windshields. I will handle international freight customs at PDX which I have done before. I will sell the additional glass pieces for $500 each once they are landed and inspected. At this point I am not sure if wiring and relay is included, but I will follow up.

My bus has the glass out for repaint and my old glass has a couple of big chips in it, so I don't think it would survive reinstallation. Buying this glass is expensive, but maybe there is some savings not replacing the standard Bay glass and getting these instead.

I shall be interested to learn how you get on Eric.

If you wanted to maximise your options re (1) left-zone ON & right-zone OFF, or (2) right-zone OFF & left-zone ON, or (3) both left-zone ON & right-zone ON together, you could use a Hella triple-throw fog-lamp switch (integral green or orange lensed tell-tale light) like these.

Tue Aug 09, 2022 11:04 am

NASkeet wrote: It appears that the custom-made, electrically-heated, laminated front windscreens for classic cars, supplied by Ricky Evans Motorsport, might actually be produced by a small, specialist company called Tyneside Safety Glass.

On British television-channel Quest (i.e. Freeview channels 12 & 70), Tyneside Safety Glass and Ricky Evans Motorsport were featured during an episode of Salvage Hunters: Classic Cars, screened on Wednesday, 26th January 2022. The program briefly showed how the new, substitute, electrically-heated, laminated front windscreen was made at Tyneside Safety Glass.

In an episode of the BBC2 television documentary series “Inside the Factory”, presented by Gregg Wallace, Cherry Healey and historian Ruth Goodman, entitled “Inside the Factory XL: Buses”, the programme examined the production of an electric version, of the iconic Transport For London, red double-decker bus. In this episode screened on BBC2, on Monday, 8th August 2022, enormous 2•5 metres wide x 1•4 metres high, electrically-heated, laminated windscreens, for the buses, were shown being manufactured by Tyneside Safety Glass.

https://www.tvguide.co.uk/m-detail/4751330/73214548/inside-the-factory

« Inside the Factory XL: Buses Gregg Wallace goes behind the scenes at a factory in Scarborough, North Yorkshire, where London's famous red double-decker buses are built, finding out what goes into making the electric model. Cherry Healey visits a factory where she gets to grips with the construction of tough laminated heated windscreens for buses, while historian Ruth Goodman learns about London's earliest double deckers and the vital role they played in the First World War »

https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m001b0qc/inside-the-factory-series-7-buses

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=inside+the+fa...mp;first=1

It was also mentioned that the passenger seats of these buses are upholstered / trimmed with “hard-wearing” moquette fabric, which might be a good option for our 1968~79 VW Type 2 seats & bench-seats cum beds. The bus floors are covered with special lino (i.e. linoleum) impregnated with silicon carbide particles, to impart slip-resistant & wear-resistant properties.

Double-decker, motor-driven omnibuses, have been a common site in London for about 100 years, and many of the early versions (seating capacity of 34) were used on the World War 1 European battle fields, to transport troops and casualties; driven by volunteer London bus drivers. Approximately 1 in 5 of these war-use buses survived the war and returned to civilian public-transport use in London.

In 1956, the year I was born, perhaps the best-known and most-iconic version of the London double-decker bus was introduced, known universally as the “Routemaster”, which was a co-operative design venture between London Transport and vehicle-manufacturer AEC, who also made lorries. Compared to earlier buses, these were revolutionary, because it was possible to remove, overhaul and reinstall the engine & transmission, in approximately one third of the time!

On the London Transport “Routemaster” buses, the distinctive AEC up-side-down, delta-shaped badge, was replaced by an identically shaped up-side-down, delta-shaped badge featuring the London Transport red roundel, as seen on the walls of London tube (i.e. underground-railway) stations. In byegone years, I often rode on “Routemaster” buses, both in London and in my region of south-east Essex, where they were painted blue in the livery of Southend Corporation.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AEC_Routemaster

Routemasters in Southend a film by Fred Ivey

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yLwiDqPDbM

Old Bus Photos » Southend Corporation

https://www.flickr.com/photos/buses-international/albums/72157644878566995/

Here’s one of the 3A service buses that I might have travelled on!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/buses-international/14254702294/in/album-72157644878566995/

Sun Aug 14, 2022 9:36 pm

NASkeet wrote: I have had some further ideas about the electrical switching circuit, for the following type of double-throw switch:

Switch Position | Circuit No. 1 | Circuit No. 2
0 | OFF | OFF
1 | ON | OFF
2 | ON | ON

I expect to go with this type of switch option. I just do not see myself ever using only the passenger side heating element.

The heated windscreens come with relays, so that will help as the switch only needs to switch power to the relays without pulling much current, so that fog switch is a good option. Thanks for your input.

The Brazilian Baywindow forum didn't have any info on installing these as I searched and came up with pretty much nothing. No worries, it looks pretty straight forward.

Mon Aug 15, 2022 6:48 am

otiswesty wrote: NASkeet wrote: I have had some further ideas about the electrical switching circuit, for the following type of double-throw switch:

Switch Position | Circuit No. 1 | Circuit No. 2
0 | OFF | OFF
1 | ON | OFF
2 | ON | ON

I expect to go with this type of switch option. I just do not see myself ever using only the passenger side heating element.

The heated windscreens come with relays, so that will help as the switch only needs to switch power to the relays without pulling much current, so that fog switch is a good option. Thanks for your input.

The Brazilian Baywindow forum didn't have any info on installing these as I searched and came up with pretty much nothing. No worries, it looks pretty straight forward.

The problem with the above alternative switching option, is that when ON position 2 is selected, one is drawing a current of 38A to supply both heated zones simultaneously, requiring some ultra-heavy-duty wiring from the rear-mounted battery & 55A or 70A alternator. :shock:

Mon Aug 15, 2022 6:53 am

otiswesty wrote: NASkeet wrote: I have had some further ideas about the electrical switching circuit, for the following type of double-throw switch:

Switch Position | Circuit No. 1 | Circuit No. 2
0 | OFF | OFF
1 | ON | OFF
2 | ON | ON

I expect to go with this type of switch option. I just do not see myself ever using only the passenger side heating element.

The heated windscreens come with relays, so that will help as the switch only needs to switch power to the relays without pulling much current, so that fog switch is a good option. Thanks for your input.

The Brazilian Baywindow forum didn't have any info on installing these as I searched and came up with pretty much nothing. No worries, it looks pretty straight forward.

The problem with the above alternative switching option, is that when ON position 2 is selected, one is drawing a current of 38A to supply both heated zones simultaneously, requiring some ultra-heavy-duty wiring from the rear-mounted battery & 55A or 70A alternator. :shock:

To avoid this, I firmly believe you would be better served by my original proposals as follows, but so far I have yet to scan my electrical-circuit design for the second type of switch to mimic the first type switch, using a five-terminal changeover relay.

NASkeet wrote: Hence, it would be appropriate, to operate these electrically-heated front windscreens, using a single-pole, double-throw switch and two accessory relays, so that the separate left-hand & right-hand heated zones are switched on alternately.

In general, there are two types of double-throw switch, which either switch-on two circuits alternately or switch-on one circuit and then both circuits. Most double-throw switches I have encountered are of the latter type, requiring the use of a change-over relay, to mimic the switching characteristics of the former type, which would be the preferred option for the electrically-heated front windscreens.

Former Type:

Switch Position | Circuit No. 1 | Circuit No. 2
0 | OFF | OFF
1 | ON | OFF
2 | OFF | ON

Latter Type:

Switch Position | Circuit No. 1 | Circuit No. 2
0 | OFF | OFF
1 | ON | OFF
2 | ON | ON

Assuming one preferred to use a 1968~79 VW Type 2 pattern dashboard switch, with integral warning light, then the double-throw, pull-knob fog-lamp switch (VW part No. 111 959 631), would be most appropriate. These normally have an orange warning-light lens, with fog-lamp emblem, but I believe it would be possible to substitute a green warning-light lens, with heated-window emblem, originating from a 1968~79 VW Type 2’s heated rear window switch.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1165189

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1165190

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1165191

http://s300.photobucket.com/user/aquatopaz/media/nnkh131.jpg.html

http://s300.photobucket.com/user/aquatopaz/media/nnkh130.jpg.html

I wouldn't expect anyone to just use the passenger side zone on its own!

My intention was that one should first clear the driver's side of the screen (initially the most critical for forward visibility) by selecting position 1 on the switch, and then once that is clear, select position 2 to clear the passenger's side of the screen.

Under this regime, one is only ever drawing a maximum of 19A current. 8) These electrically-heated windscreens are reputed to clear the screen very quickly, so the relatively short delay in also clearing the passenger's side zone shouldn't pose a major hazard or inconvenience.

It's all about managing one's current consumption re battery and/or alternator output, which might be unable to adequately cope with the extreme demands of operating both heated zones simultaneously, whilst also supplying current to the vehicle's other electrical systems.

Tue Aug 23, 2022 11:06 am

One of the things I might have forgotten to mention, is that it would be advisable to take one's switch-supply from an ignition-controlled terminal (either terminal-15 or terminal-X), so that the electrically-heated front windscreen or other high-power systems & components, are not drawing current when the ignition is switched off.

My preference is for terminal-X, which is only live when the ignition is switched on, but the starter-motor is NOT being operated. This has the advantage that if one stalls the engine, all of the high-power systems & components are automatically disconnected whilst one is operating the starter-motor.

The first few model-years of 1968~79 VW Type 2 don't feature a terminal-X, but it is possible to create this function. :D 8)

Tue Aug 23, 2022 11:30 am

Running a heated glass element off the X terminal would put unnecessary current through the ignition switch. Instead, run a relay to power the element off #30 battery power, while using terminal X to power the relay control switch. This gives all the benefits Nigel mentioned without stressing the ignition switch, since replacement switches are of dubious quality.

Regards ;)
Robbie

Tue Aug 23, 2022 12:33 pm

NASkeet wrote: One of the things I might have forgotten to mention, is that it would be advisable to take one's switch-supply from an ignition-controlled terminal (either terminal-15 or terminal-X), so that the electrically-heated front windscreen or other high-power systems & components, are not drawing current when the ignition is switched off.

My preference is for terminal-X, which is only live when the ignition is switched on, but the starter-motor is NOT being operated. This has the advantage that if one stalls the engine, all of the high-power systems & components are automatically disconnected whilst one is operating the starter-motor.

The first few model-years of 1968~79 VW Type 2 don't feature a terminal-X, but it is possible to create this function. :D 8)

airschooled wrote: Running a heated glass element off the X terminal would put unnecessary current through the ignition switch. Instead, run a relay to power the element off #30 battery power, while using terminal X to power the relay control switch. This gives all the benefits Nigel mentioned without stressing the ignition switch, since replacement switches are of dubious quality.

Regards ;)
Robbie

Robbie, if you had read my post properly, you would have noticed that I referred to the "switch-current" being taken from terminal-15 or terminal-X, not the "load-current" which would supply power via a relay to the appropriate left-hand or right-hand zone of the electrically-heated front windscreen, from terminal-30 which is a direct battery supply.

Tue Aug 23, 2022 1:09 pm

Looking closely at the pictures of the heated windscreen, it looks like the drivers side and the passenger side are separate circuits, complete with two wires each.

So you should be able to wire them -
- in parallel for max heating,

- one at a time for specific heating,
- in series for a "maintenance" mode with half the current , but warming both sides..

If I do succeed in getting mine soon, I will try the series connection also.

Tue Aug 23, 2022 4:22 pm

nigel,

is it possible to use a relay with this switch to ,switch back and forth between the driver side and passenger side to evenly heat the windscreen? like a regular blinker switch, or the hazzards?is it possible to use a PID controller to even out the demand from the load?

-gregor

Sat Aug 27, 2022 10:35 am

mikedjames wrote: Looking closely at the pictures of the heated windscreen, it looks like the drivers side and the passenger side are separate circuits, complete with two wires each.

So you should be able to wire them -

- in parallel for max heating,

- one at a time for specific heating,

- in series for a "maintenance" mode with half the current , but warming both sides..

If I do succeed in getting mine soon, I will try the series connection also.

Mike, I think it was already well-established that the windscreen had two separate heating zones with separate wiring connections, on either side of the windscreen.

Connection in Parallel

Although connecting the windscreen’s left-hand and right-hand heating elements in parallel would minimise the overall time needed to clear the entire windscreen, it will require the greatest current & power supply from the rear-mounted battery and generator (i.e. dynamo or alternator) and will necessitate ultra-heavy-duty supply cable from the engine compartment to the cab, to minimise the heating effect in the supply cable and the voltage loss in the supply cable.

On occasions when the electrically-heated front windscreen would be most needed, it would be competing for power with several other vehicle electrical systems, which might include the ignition system, obligatory lamps (i.e. headlamps, sidelights, taillights, front fog-lights & rear fog-lights), windscreen wipers, electrically-heated rear window, heater booster fans, etc.

Given that the 1968~79 VW Type 2’s front windscreen’s two heating elements, are each rated at 19A, this accounts for 38A out of a maximum of 38A from a Bosch dynamo and a maximum of 70A (typically only vehicles factory fitted with an Eberspächer petrol-fired auxiliary heater), 55A or 50A from a Bosch alternator, which would leave little if anything in reserve to power the other electrical systems. None of these generators would tolerate operating at maximum current-load for extended periods and might be damaged by attempting to do so. Retro-fitting a remote-shunt ammeter, indicating the total generator current output might be useful!

Connection in Series

Connecting the windscreen’s left-hand and right-hand heating elements in series, would certainly halve the current supplied, but it would also halve the voltage drop across each individual heating element, quartering the power dissipated [n.b. P = VI = I²R = V²/R] by each individual heating element and substantially reducing the surface temperature of the window glass.

Hence, I suspect that this would more than quadruple the demisting / defrosting time of each individual windscreen zone. One could reasonably experiment with this option, but I suspect it might take longer to clear the most critical area of the windscreen, than most drivers would consider acceptable. Another potential disadvantage of series-connection, is that if one heating element fails, there will be no current supplied to the other heating element either.

Separate, Unlinked Connection

This would probably still be my preferred option, giving the quickest overall demisting / defrosting time for the windscreen, whilst minimising current load & power.

outcaststudios wrote: nigel,

is it possible to use a relay with this switch to switch back and forth between the driver side and passenger side to evenly heat the windscreen? like a regular blinker switch, or the hazzards? is it possible to use a PID controller to even out the demand from the load?

-gregor

Gregor, from what I remember of studying my control-engineering module at university, as part of my two-year M.Sc. degree in Applied Energy Engineering, during October 1979 to September 1981, and tutoring Ford Motor Company sponsored students in the subject during the early 21st Century, trying to use any form of sophisticated negative-feedback control system (especially a PDI – proportional + derivative + integral controller) to control the average power output of an electrically-heated front windscreen, would probably be an example of gross overkill.

Besides that, one would need to identify a measurable parameter as the feedback signal and desired set-point (i.e. reference value, one was trying to attain), such as glass-temperature or the value of voltage-drop across the heating-element, as the heating-element resistance increases with temperature.

It's also debatable whether any controller would significantly reduce the switched-on time for the heating elements. With experience, one should hopefully come to realize, that one can reasonably switch off the power, before the windscreen has completely cleared.

It’s possible that a timer relay might exist, which would alternately switch automatically between one heater-element circuit and another, at a pre-determined frequency. I think there might be such a timer relay, which is used to alternately switch between left-hand & right-hand direction-indicator lamps or headlamps, as part of a security alarm system or police-car’s visible warning system. Even this might be unnecessarily sophisticated! If one employed such a relay, one would use a single-throw switch having one ON position in conjunction with it, rather than a double-throw switch with two ON positions.

https://responsevehiclelighting.co.uk/other-lighting-products/alternating-flashing-units.html

www.eurogroup-gb.com/Alternating_Headlight_Flasher.html

https://patents.google.com/patent/US3609681A/en

Sat Sep 03, 2022 10:00 am

otiswesty wrote: Nigel, I would suggest eliminating the temered glass windshield ASAP, a hard rock hitting that glass at highway speeds will cause the entire glass panel to explode into a 1000 pieces!

When my family and I travelled abroad with our 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 motor-caravan, which had a factory-fitted, zone-toughened windscreen, we carried an AA – Automobile Association, emergency roll-up plastic windscreen [I still have it], with integral steel reinforcement bars, but I doubt whether these are still readily available.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=aa+temporary+...mp;first=1

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Emergency+Win...H39fp4c%3d

AA Emergency Temporary Windscreen

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284835745752

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AA-Emergency-Temporary-...7675.l2557

AA Emergency Windscreen - Vintage Car Memorabilia - Brand new

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314107472773?_trkparms=...1124.m2109

AutoKing Emergency Windscreen - Heavy Duty Lined Plastic Sheeting with Plastic Pull Tags – Size 2050 mm x 1012 mm (i.e. 81” x 40”)

Another emergency windscreen available in New Zealand

For the Australian outback, some owners retro-fitted removable wire-mesh stone guards covering their VW Type 2 front windscreens, which are probably similar in form, to those fitted to the VW Type 2 minibuses that were used by the German riot police.

Wed Sep 14, 2022 11:38 am

There is a company in England selling heated windshield circuits including relays that also has an option for dual element heated windshields.
https://www.electricalcarservices.com/heated-winds...ion/p-4381