TheSamba.com :: View topic - Installing windows with new seals. Use Urethane?

Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:08 am

I am ready to reinstall my quarter panel glass with new seals. Is urethane necessary, desirable or not needed?

Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:12 am

I would install them without and see how it goes.

Sika and 3M sealants come with a very narrow applicator that you and get fit into the right place to apply the sealant with the seal and window in place.

It is really messy if applied first while the seal is being put in...just my experience.

Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:26 am

insyncro wrote: I would install them without and see how it goes.

Sika and 3M sealants come with a very narrow applicator that you and get fit into the right place to apply the sealant with the seal and window in place.

It is really messy if applied first while the seal is being put in...just my experience.

^^^^^ Agree, 100% ^^^^^^

Only use a sealant IF you have a leak. By and large the rubber alone dies the job.

Dave

Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:41 am

Im for installing without sealant then seal them. If you are gonna do it do it while everything is new and clean. After you had a leak often there is grime that made it way in. Lindseed oil to lube lace. Insyncro is right about getting the good tip. You want the tube with the screw on tip that is very rigid. You will be leaning on it pretty hard to keep it in the groove.

Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:22 am

Are we talking about the rear quarter windows? Are yours the earlier single piece, or the later two-piece vented windows?

The factory didn't install sealant (so far as I can tell) on any of the windows, so we don't and haven't had any leaks.

When we converted the rear quarter to the vented version, I did apply some silicone to the gasket between the glass and the plastic vent, but nothing between the seal and the van sheet metal.

Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:29 am

Hey Dylan-
I've seen you recommend Sikaflex before, but which variety do you like for this application? They seem to have a number of sealants. Also, do you have a link to the specific applicator/nozzle you recommend? My front windshield is still leaking after replacing the seal and doing some rust remediation, and I want to deal with it before the rains come again. Many thanks!
Cheers,
Ryan

Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:31 am

Thanks for the replies. I had the window shop install the new windshield and back glass with new seals after the paint had cured. I have new seals and need to install all 4 quarter panels. Thanks for the advice iliketowalk, I was planning on adding silicone to the plastic vents of the rear quarter panels. the front quarters are sliders.

Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:45 pm

ledogboy wrote: Hey Dylan-
I've seen you recommend Sikaflex before, but which variety do you like for this application? They seem to have a number of sealants. Also, do you have a link to the specific applicator/nozzle you recommend? My front windshield is still leaking after replacing the seal and doing some rust remediation, and I want to deal with it before the rains come again. Many thanks!
Cheers,
Ryan

Sika:
http://usa.sika.com/en/automotive/automotive-transportation-home/01a001.html

3M:
http://3mcollision.com/3m-auto-glass-urethane-windshield-adhesive-08695.html

Buying caulk tubes that fit a regular caulk gun will work for those who do not have the sausage pack applicators.
The caulk style tubes should come with a long thin nozzle end that will reach up under the seal and disperse the product in the tiny gaps.
Not gooping a ton of it is recommended as just a small amount is needed and having the sealant come out from under the seal is way too much and will hamper complete sealing.

Stacy, 16CVS installs many windows and uses the primer along with the sealants.
A search of other threads should show some of his posts.

I will check eBay this evening and post some of these products in easier to use containers and post what I find.
In the mean time, use these links for starters and see if you can't find something along these lines locally on eBay, Amazon...

D

Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:49 pm

Many thanks!

Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:31 am

I ended up having a glass shop install these and observed them carefully for their technique. Spray window cleaner or soapy water into the seal prior to installing the chord, then spray the outer edge of the window opening and the inner edge of the installed seal . They were very liberal in the amount of spray they used. I saw a video on youtube of some guy installing a rear quarter on a camper by himself, I have no idea how he managed it as it took both techs over an hour to install the 4 pieces, and both guys were needed. This was on a tintop so there was no cabinet in the way. The video on you tube shows him starting the install, and then jumps to the glass installed, he stated that the batteries died on his camera into the install, it's deceptive because you figure one guy can do this by himself it must not be too hard? Wrong. The glass technician has been installing auto glass for 20 years and he stated these were some of the most miserable he has done. On those back quarter windows that have the plastic vents it is best to cross the chord at the rear of the window instead of the bottom and work the seal at the plastic vent first. Once the lip of the seal is over the window opening at the back have an assistant push the window back, they will probably need a plastic edge tool to roll the lip back out on the exterior after doing this. Patting the glass on the outside firmly at key points and at key times aids the installation, The technician took the chord and helicoptered it as he went around corners to work the seal lip over the window opening lip. (rotating the chord in a circle, but always pulling towards the center of the glass. The framed sliders were difficult because of the frame edge. Another point to note is to make sure the connecting seam of the seal is installed on the window at the bottom center. This will be a line on the seal where the seal was seamed together. The tech said that as the seals age and contract and expand that it can be an ingress point for water so you want it at the bottom .

Fri Jan 16, 2015 10:34 am

Many can install glass without help.
I prefer to have a helper.

Regular old grease has worked better than and spray in my experience.

Fri Jan 16, 2015 11:05 am

I would never attempt to install a curved piece of glass (windshield) by myself, but I might be tempted to try it with small pieces of flat glass. It's definitely preferable to have assistance

Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:49 pm

i did all the seals on my van last year. the worse one was the rear hatch, but that was also my first one.

lubrication is absolutely the most important thing, otherwise the rubber won't sit right, it'll be a bastard to get in, and it could even leak because the rubber is snagged.

interesting to hear you used grease insyncro. i had assumed that soap was preferred because it would dry (somehow, i'm not sure, under that rubber seal!?!). grease seems like a better thing to have living under a seal.

i tried to use fluid film on my first one, but the aerosol stuff has rubber expanding properties... i've heard people using the non-aerosol stuff to add an extra bit of protection against water ingress/rust.

Fri Jan 16, 2015 1:19 pm

Blair, one of my autobody mentors said grease, so I use grease.
Worked like a charm.

Fri Jan 16, 2015 1:43 pm

insyncro wrote: Blair, one of my autobody mentors said grease, so I use grease.
Worked like a charm.

Hmmmmm....... I do like the antirust properties of grease under the rubber.
I'm looking at doing this task in the next year or two.
I've used KY Jelly with great success but that is water soluable so in actuallity it holds moisture inside the seal against the sealing lip.

But I've seen a fair bit of rubber items adversely affected by grease.

I have also seen other rubber products function in grease without harm.

I can only guess that it totally depends upon the Rubber Composition.
So it begs to be asked.....
Can window glass rubber handle being in contact with grease long term?
How does one find an answer to this question?

Dave

Fri Jan 16, 2015 8:03 pm

Best way to find out is try it :wink:

Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:00 pm

Linseed oil. Lubes like grease . Dries and cures like mild sealant.

Fri Apr 24, 2015 1:37 pm

My glass installer recommended Bedding compound .

3M 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound Cartridge

Fri Apr 24, 2015 2:27 pm

3-M 08609 urethane glass sealer will not only seal the window rubber to the body, you could sink the Van and the windows wouldn't leak.
Two Caveats with this product.
A) don't get it on your hands.
It'll take a month prior not being able to see them anymore.
B) You'll never be able to get that window rubber off off the body of the Van.
Once it's dry, your all done.

This stuff I used to glue all of the front end parts back onto a friend on mines Prevost Coach last winter.
Put the front door moldings back on too with it.
12 hour dry time--forget about it, the stuff ain't moving.

It would be a great idea to use this stuff as seam sealer, or body panel adhesive.
It's on for good, & it's forever waterproof.

Great on gutter seal leaks on your home.

Possibilities are endless.

Fri Apr 24, 2015 2:29 pm

greebly wrote: My glass installer recommended Bedding compound .

3M 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound Cartridge

IMHO......
Your window installer is afraid of a leak and once done NEVER wants to see your Van again.

By and large, seals don't leak. You Goop them in with sticky crud, any future repairs just went from fairly easy to OMG what a F-ing mess!

He's covering his butt and making money by heading off a leaky come back.

Now if a seal leaks, utilize modern sealants as needed.

Dave.

Dave