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Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:27 pm

Hi, I recently purchased a 75 super from a guy saying it needed the right fuel pump put on it and it would be good to go. He told me it wouldn't start so he replaced all the injectors, including the cold start. He put a older Volvo fuel pump on it, and he said it ran for about 30 minutes when he changed the injectors and then stopped again and wouldn't start after. Well when I got it, my first instinct was to pull the tank, and upon cleaning the tank loads of debris fell out, what almost looked like lint. I replaced the fuel pump and filter with the correct parts, and it still won't start. Only runs if you spray starting fluid directly into the motor. Checked the schrader valve and you can hear air in the lines purging out but it doesn't stop, and now the lines have no pressure at all and not building any. Any input on what to look for would be appreciated, my guesses could be the new injectors being clogged by the gunk in the tank? But not sure on it not having pressure or anything. Thank you in advance.

Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:58 pm

Welcome to Samba.
First: Buy a Bentley. This is " a must have" for everyone with a Bug in a garage
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/330857250817?lpid=82

Then read tons of manuals/walk trough hands on repairs

http://manuals.type4.org/ljet/index.html
http://x19.xwebforums.org/wiki/images/e/e4/VW_L-Jetronic_Fuel_Injection_Workshop_Manual.pdf
http://www.vw-resource.com/vw-resource.com_non_ssl/fuel_injection.html
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_fi...Manual.pdf
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_fi...r_1974.pdf

If you got no answer yet:
then ask Fuel Injection Guru here @

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21015&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Go to the auto parts store and rent a fuel pressure tester.
Connect it to a CSV ( cold start valve)
then take air filter, turn ignition on and push a flap inside an AFM (air flow meter)
this is the way you can check if you have any fuel pressure.
There should be something between 28-35 psi.
If your fuel pump is shot - buy a VW one, there is tons of them available on samba, ebay and VW parts vendors.
Change a fuel filter as well, o'reyllis or autozone have them for a few bucks a piece ( I paid $4.95 + tax)
Fuel tank , if rusted, may be cleaned for about $100-150 at any radiator shop.

Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:21 pm

I've tried looking at so many manuals and I have the chiltons manual but nothing has helped me with the issue. It fires right up with something sprayed in directly, and the new vw pump is pumping fuel. Pressed down on the schrader valve while having the key turned to get the air out the line and it leaked air out until the line no longer had pressure and now does not build pressure when I turn the key and the motor just turns freely with no fuel to the engine. Clogged up injectors? Air leak in one of the fuel lines? Any help needed please.

Sun Sep 07, 2014 10:53 pm

Put your Chilton into a garbage bin.
Then
Check fuel filter
Check your fuel pressure.
If there is at least 28 psi, you good.
check the fuel amount fuel pump delivers , after a 1 minute - should be at least 1 liter.

http://x19.xwebforums.org/wiki/images/e/e4/VW_L-Jetronic_Fuel_Injection_Workshop_Manual.pdf page 22 of 25

After the fuel pressure test take all/or one by one fuel injector out of heads
Look into bentley/links provided for the amount of fuel shot out of each injector, 30 seconds = 87cc

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_fi...Manual.pdf
page 25 of 46 - how to test fuel injector

If your injectors are clogged , send them for service, samba uses
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/
There is $20 a piece plus S/H - injectors I send were back in 4 days.
If you have no time - oreillyauto , AutoZone and others - samba, ebay , everyone have them from $25/piece, CSV start from a $110/piece

Wed Dec 30, 2015 8:42 am

Regarding fuel delivery, a thorough replacement or cleaning of the fuel tank, fuel lines, and filters is a must. I have found the lines in the tunnel are easily over looked and problematic. I can easily test for clog or restriction by blowing compressed air through the line. I typically find the lines are restricted. One thing I do on every car project is cap the forward side of the fuel lines that run through the tunnel. I put a foot long piece of fuel tubbing on the rearward tube end. I spray carb cleaner and fill the line, cap it and let it soak for 15 minutes. I then uncap the line and blow it out with high pressure compressed air. Put a card board box under the area the compressed air will exit. In every case a good amount of varnish sludge is blown out will make permanent ugly stains on the shop floor. I do this three times to make sure the line is clean and no more sludge blows out. Also, remove and replace all the rubber fuel and vacume hoses. It's cheap and guarantees free flowing lines and no vacuum leaks. Once the entire fuel delivery system is cleaned out, the trouble shooting and reliability increases tremendously. I've restored or reconditioned 23 vintage Beeltles of both the carberated and fuel injected models. Thoroughly going through the fuel system in the beginning saves a hundred hours of trouble shooting down the road.