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Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:10 pm

So today was my first try at using lead as body filler. Im using the weights from tires and melting them down into little lead sticks lol. Im not sure what im doing wrong but its gotta have something to do with using the materials im using. The only problem im really having is the lead is wanting to roll down the surface of what im trying to put it on, Im also using a piece of flat metal to push it up into shape but its not really working. Can I use these types of materials and if not what should I get? Any Tips or tricks you can get me will be much appreciated.

Wed Aug 07, 2013 8:43 pm

I was going to try a bit of lead body soldering myself, but I havent got to bodywork on my bug yet. I may not be of much help here.. it might be the materials, but if it's anything like soldering electronics, you need to heat the body panel more to the point where it pulls in the lead, instead of heating the lead stick and trying to push it into the body. IDK?

Wed Aug 07, 2013 11:16 pm

Erocku wrote: I was going to try a bit of lead body soldering myself, but I havent got to bodywork on my bug yet. I may not be of much help here.. it might be the materials, but if it's anything like soldering electronics, you need to heat the body panel more to the point where it pulls in the lead, instead of heating the lead stick and trying to push it into the body. IDK?
I actually had the panel pretty hot which might be bad because of warping, I could get the lead to stick to the panel pretty well it just wanted to drip off and roll down so i would have the area half covered. In the pictures you can kinda see that where the top is not filled in. I kinda think its the tool im using to push the lead with. The lead kinda wants to stick to the tool. Maybe I should make an aluminum one.

Wed Aug 07, 2013 11:55 pm

I believe they use wood paddles to move the lead around with. I found a section on the rear window pillar on my 59 ghia that is no longer attached to the body, there is an air gap under the lead.
So I need to figure out how to repair that myself.
Good luck.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 12:16 am

I doubt wheel wts are correct alloy...body lead is 50/50 iirc.

The metal surface needs to be tinned first.

Oak paddles are used to sculpt the lead...and the paddles are coated with bees wax.

Sounds like you are getting things too hot too.

This is all off the top of my head. I'm pretty sure you can find leading on youtube and elsewhere on the net.

Also, eastwood co. Sells leading supplies iirc. I'm sure other sites do as well.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 1:38 am

So I watched a few youtube videos and learned some stuff. I tried it again but this time I was using a wooden ruler, its all I could find at 1 a.m. lol and I tried to tin the surface and it kinda worked. The one that I tinned up didn't want to accept the lead as well as when I just put flux on it then heated the flux and then lead. At first I was using too much heat so it would just fall off but that's the skill of lead working is heat control. I ended up getting one to come out pretty decent. I will try again tomorrow but this time im going to clean the impurities out of the lead better. I would like to see any of your lead work, just to compare it to how bad mine is :D

Thu Aug 08, 2013 8:18 pm

So I am learning to keep the lead at the right temp so it doesn't roll off. File it down but I am getting small holes in the lead. What should I use to fill that in? I know I cant use bondo because it will lift. Jb weld maybe hahaha :lol:

Thu Aug 08, 2013 8:38 pm

There's an olde time thin putty / thick primer product, but the name escapes me at the moment...spot putty maybe?

actually - nothing wrong with JB weld....

...never have done lead work - I just read a lot of stuff like hot rod and restoration articles.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 9:47 pm

Dr OnHolliday wrote: There's an olde time thin putty / thick primer product, but the name escapes me at the moment...spot putty maybe?

actually - nothing wrong with JB weld....

...never have done lead work - I just read a lot of stuff like hot rod and restoration articles.
I was thinking about spot putty.
Maybe I will try the jb weld a lot of others have used it before as filler.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 9:48 pm

Is there any reason I shouldn't use tire weights as lead filler?

Fri Aug 09, 2013 6:20 am

You will have to use some body filler if you want the paint perfect. I use Evercoat brand 2 part filler putty & PPG paints. You need to buy all your body/paint supplies from a local supplier and follow their recommendations/system.

Fri Aug 09, 2013 11:20 am

Quote: Is there any reason I shouldn't use tire weights as lead filler?

lead poisoning comes to mind, ever wonder why they don't use it anymore, and why there are none of the old school lead body guys around anymore?

it should never be sanded, only filed so the lead particles are not easily inhailed.

the eastwood company has a non-lead body solder and all the gear needed to use it. check out their restoration forum for more info.

Fri Aug 09, 2013 3:35 pm

Mike Fisher wrote: You will have to use some body filler if you want the paint perfect. I use Evercoat brand 2 part filler putty & PPG paints. You need to buy all your body/paint supplies from a local supplier and follow their recommendations/system.
Nonsense.
Until poyester fillers started coming out in the early 60s, lead was it.
All those gorgeous old lead sleds were done with metal work, lead and lacquer primers, topped with lacquer paints.
A WHOLE LOT of work, but the end results spoke for themselves.

Myself, I much prefer polyesters and urethanes over lead and lacquers, but it's not the only way.

Mike

Fri Aug 09, 2013 3:35 pm

First I file everything and then I wet sand it I don't mind getting a little lead poisoning :lol: It kind of does worry me tho.
I actually primed one to see what it looked like and watered it down and it was perfect except for the small pin holes.
Tho whole reason I wanted to do lead is so I don't have to use bondo, I could of easily used bondo instead of lead but Im not learning anything that way. These are my trim holes and if you are wondering yes I did weld and grind them down first and not fill them with lead.

Fri Aug 09, 2013 7:44 pm

Dr OnHolliday wrote: I doubt wheel wts are correct alloy...body lead is 50/50 iirc.

The metal surface needs to be tinned first.

Oak paddles are used to sculpt the lead...and the paddles are coated with bees wax.

Sounds like you are getting things too hot too.

This is all off the top of my head. I'm pretty sure you can find leading on youtube and elsewhere on the net.

Also, eastwood co. Sells leading supplies iirc. I'm sure other sites do as well.
Did you miss this information about the % of lead in the alloy for body filler? I have read that body filler lead is 70% lead, and 30% tin, while wheel weights are 95% lead, and 5% antimony. Also the lead wheel weights use a lot of lead that is reclaimed from car batteries. This could cause contamination. I have done copper soldering on pipes and I can tell you that any contamination of the base metal, or solder metal will prevent the solder from adhering.

Fri Aug 09, 2013 9:18 pm

Today I used a can to melt down the lead and cut a groove in a peace of wood, before I was using the floor and a screw driver to do this lol. This lead really surprised me at how clean it was. I'm still deciding if I want to keep this lead on my car, I am just trying this as a learning experience, that is why I don't want to spend money on materials. Ohh and If you try to pour the hot lead onto wood with water on it make sure to close your eyes hahahaha, Lesson of the day.

Sat Aug 10, 2013 6:22 pm

Thanks for listening.

Sun Aug 11, 2013 12:00 am

I was listening and taking that into consideration. I have decided that I am not going to be messing with the wheel weights anymore because I read up on all the bad stories and how bad lead poisoning is. Eastwood sell just the 70% lead 30$ tin sticks for $4.50 and they sell the lead free body solder for $60. I cant justify spending that much on solder when I could buy the lead rods. The lead just seems dangerous but I know if its done correctly it is safe. Hmmmmm

Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:28 am

Well I kinda gave up on the lead, but heres some of my metal finish work. No bondo at all on these areas. I still do have to use some bondo on other parts of the car but not here. flux core welded. Grinded down and file finished. I would like to learn more and I actually met a guy who does all metal work at a swap meet. He's been doing it for 50 years doesn't use any lead either, haha he called it shit lol. I will be going to his shop soon to check out his work. I already saw a few pieces he had at the swap meet but I want to see more!!

Tue Feb 18, 2014 1:59 pm

Get a shrinkage disc to use and you won't need lead except for body seams or filleting between angled pieces in custom work.