TheSamba.com :: View topic - Omni Acrylic Urethane SS -vs- Nason "Ful-thane"

Sat Jun 01, 2013 9:06 am

Which would you go with out of the Omni Acrylic Urethane single stage paint and the Nason "Ful-Thane" (specifically)? What are the draw backs of each?
I'm hearing that the Omni is thin and chips easily. One post I came across said that the Nason is harder and shines up better than the Omni. On the other hand I've heard that the Nason tends to fade after a year short years. Anybody with experience with both of these paints? thanks!

Sat Jun 01, 2013 9:34 am

Been selling both for years. They are both good. As long as your prep is good you shouldn't have chipping probs. As far as fading, make sure you have applied enough coats. Many people apply the bare minimum then do a color sand and buff and blame the paint for fading. The real prob is there isn't enough mil thickness to stand up. For the most part it's like the difference between Ford and Chevy, some people will love one and not the other.

Sat Jun 01, 2013 4:31 pm

I've used both, never had any issues with either.
They're both lower line paints so coverage can be an issue (may need an extra coat or two or a suitable ground coat underneath) but the colour hold-out and gloss never seems to be an issue.
I prefer top-line paint systems but stuff like Omni and Nason have their place in the market. If either was crap, they wouldn't still be around.
But they have to mixed and sprayed properly - a lot of guys seem to think "it's cheaper paint, so I can play bench-top chemist and mix it however I want, with whatever I want". That doesn't work in the long run.
Any paint will chip if hit hard enough and in the right place. Big chips come from big hits and/or poor prep work.

Mike

Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:37 pm

BIG MAC wrote: .. As far as fading, make sure you have applied enough coats. Many people apply the bare minimum then do a color sand and buff and blame the paint for fading.

I was under the impression that both of these paint lines would require 3 coats for the SS.. should I plan on 4 ? BTW, will 1 gallon do if I skip painting the interior? I do plan to do the trunk when I paint the exterior, but the engine bay may actually be done later (I'd love to have enough left over for that). The car is a '71 volvo 1800 coupe (about the size of a Karmann Ghia).

Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:46 pm

CanadianBug wrote: ..But they have to mixed and sprayed properly - a lot of guys seem to think "it's cheaper paint, so I can play bench-top chemist and mix it however I want, with whatever I want".
Mike

One of the things that has been brought up a few times is that Omni (in particular) is already on the thin side and some have recommended skipping the reducer all together. I asked the local paint store tech (for what it's worth) if he'd heard this and what he recommended. He agreed that it's thin but recommended not skipping the reducer because it helps the paint flow better and effects flash times. I didn't mention to him that I'd be painting in a make shift booth made of plastic sheeting, fans, and filters AND in the heat of summer though. I've seen pics of good jobs done without it.. but I suppose I'll get some reducer.

Sun Jun 02, 2013 10:30 am

Reducer is the one component you can cheat on, but don't eliminate it altogether. By cheating I mean quantity-wise, not quality-wise.
It not only helps the flow and any pearl or metallic orientation, it works with the hardener somewhat in the curing process and it also can prevent solvent pop by letting each coat flash properly instead of just surface flash.
Conversely, it can also cause solvent pop if you use a reducer that's too fast. :)

Mike