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Sat May 04, 2013 7:50 am

I've done some reading on this topic--here and on the Yakima and GW websites. I'll be using my rack for a cargo box and/or cargo basket. I'll give Yakima a call after checking here.

What is the most common tower spacing that will accommodate a number of different attachments. I've read 30", 36", 40"....but nothing definitive. Though there may not be a magic number, what do you suggest?

Sat May 04, 2013 8:10 am

I install all mine at the shop at 36". They are all Thule, as are the accessories, and the mounting holes are all at 36"... Roof boxes, bike trays, kayak mounts etc. Plus, it leaves lots of room for solar panels if need be between them mounted on the roof itself, leaving the load bars free for a load.
Jeff

Sat May 04, 2013 8:11 am

Mine are 32" on center.
I carry a Thule cargo box. You must make your rack spacing match your cargo box.

I suggest you call a rack install specialist.
Rack Attack in Portland is a good one. They should give you an opinion over the phone.

CJ

Sat May 04, 2013 8:25 am

The spacing is determined by what you're mounting on top of them. BE VERY SURE THEY ARE NOT SPACED TOO FAR APART. I originally thought: "here's a good spot..." Then I measured the spacing and it was WAYYYY too far apart for my box and bike rack. Here's a pic of mine installed:

They measure 36" apart center to center...

Sat May 04, 2013 8:28 am

It's your van, put 'em where you want/need. I move mine to accomodate the situation....

Sat May 04, 2013 8:33 am

I spaced mine according to my Thule rooftop box adjusting range. But I have gutters so I didn't have to make a permanent decision.

My westy roof had them predrilled in three places, here is me using the rear two:

And how I placed it on my syncro:

Sat May 04, 2013 8:57 am

My racks are 36" apart.

For me it is also very important to locate the rear rack in the position that will allow the Pop Top Shocks to share a bolt hole.

see
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=364548

do it like this

so you dont need an extra hole like this:

Sat May 04, 2013 11:36 am

Yakima says 36" is the maximum spacing to fit their accessories. Don't go further apart than that as others have said.

Sat May 04, 2013 1:40 pm

I would follow the spacing above mounted towards the back of
your poptop. If you carry kayaks or anything long a third bar should
be mounted up front. I have also seen a front one using the large
height rain gutter legs over the luggage rack. Not sure if I
like that look yet or if it functions any better.

Sat May 04, 2013 1:41 pm

PDXWesty wrote: Yakima says 36" is the maximum spacing to fit their accessories. Don't go further apart than that as others have said.

That's what I'm looking for--thx! Where did you read that?....I couldn't find it on their site.

Sat May 04, 2013 3:42 pm

http://yakima.custhelp.com/ci/fattach/get/43724/

http://yakima.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/15

Right at the top: 30"-36" But it does look like some accessories go further.

Sat May 04, 2013 3:50 pm

Mine are at 48" because I put longboards on top, short boards in the box or in the van. I used the stock Yakima front mounting location on the rocket box and drilled holes (took all of about 30 seconds) for the rear brackets.
With the boards on and the box loaded, I can still use the front luggage rack.

Put them wherever you want and what works for you. I didnt bother with any "factory specs" when installing my surf racks. 36" doesnt work for my needs. As it is, I think 48" is pushing it.

Tue Jul 13, 2021 10:25 pm

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I recently acquired a yakima skybox 16 and was excited to mount it to my roof only to learn that the roof racks installed by the PO are 51" apart, much further apart than any box on the market will allow.

I can't really understand what Nachtfalter did with drilling holes in the box.

Has anybody come across a similar situation or have any creative ideas to fix my problem?

Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:07 am

My Yakima A1 Towers are spaced unevenly right now and probably the way they are going to stay.
I have a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood mounted on them that routinely walk on. What makes this work is that along the sides of the plywood I have 8' long 1x1" angle iron to give the ply support along the length.
I cut spacings through the ply along it's 8' length and one at the centerline at each end on the 4' wide width to give me handholds when climbing up there and to use for strapping cargo down. Anything that does not fit inside has gone up there.

The Yakima Skybox is bolted down to the plywood and has been moved to diferent fore/aft locations experimenting with airflow.
When I first did this I painted the ply with top quality exterior house paint mixed with anti-skid particles. The ply lasted one summer before the top layer stsrted peeling off from the Florida sun.
Replaced it and left it bare & coated with Thompson water seal. The latest ply has been up there 4 yrs. redoing the Thompsons every year.

Originally had it right close to the roof, but now recently added 1.5" aluminum extrusion as spacers to the A1 Towers to raise it.
The Yakima 4" lift kit works, but the aluminum extrusion is cheaper by far and has more advantages.

The ply was "plywood brown" when new, but road grime has blackened it.

The temp difference between the bare metal roof and the shade provided under the ply is close to 20° cooler then the bare roof so it is working the same as the "Safari Roof" used on Landrovers.

Also used the rack to mount the Fiamma F65 awning as opposed to drilling mount holes into the Syncro. I don't like drilling holes into my Syncro!

Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:12 am

vanpwr wrote: Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I recently acquired a yakima skybox 16 and was excited to mount it to my roof only to learn that the roof racks installed by the PO are 51" apart, much further apart than any box on the market will allow.

I can't really understand what Nachtfalter did with drilling holes in the box.

Has anybody come across a similar situation or have any creative ideas to fix my problem?

Depending on the box you have you may or may not be able to modify the mounting bracket location (s) or the outside limits if the location slides.

Adding additional (s) may resolve what you are after.

Fwiw, I have 4 bracket locations and often mount my box forward/middle/aft depending on my loading and access needs.

If I were to do it over, I'd make long diy rain gutter brackets and make them the length of each the forward and aft 'lower' part of the roof sides and be able to move the towers anywhere along there.... Infininaite spacing options instead of my four.

Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:20 am

You could add a couple pieces of 7/8" "Unistrut" to bridge the towers
Clamp 2 pc's of pipe at the desired location
T

Wed Jul 14, 2021 7:39 am

vanpwr wrote: Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I recently acquired a yakima skybox 16 and was excited to mount it to my roof only to learn that the roof racks installed by the PO are 51" apart, much further apart than any box on the market will allow.

I can't really understand what Nachtfalter did with drilling holes in the box.

Has anybody come across a similar situation or have any creative ideas to fix my problem?

Among other possibilities, it sounds like you can drill the box and use u-bolts to secure it to the bars or resposition the bars on the roof. Don't be afraid of drilling holes in the box or the pop-top, they can easily be repaired. These things are temporary.

I may have done both but don't do what I did and add more bars. They end up being too heavy.

Wed Jul 14, 2021 9:16 am

jimf909 wrote: vanpwr wrote: Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I recently acquired a yakima skybox 16 and was excited to mount it to my roof only to learn that the roof racks installed by the PO are 51" apart, much further apart than any box on the market will allow.

I can't really understand what Nachtfalter did with drilling holes in the box.

Has anybody come across a similar situation or have any creative ideas to fix my problem?

Among other possibilities, it sounds like you can drill the box and use u-bolts to secure it to the bars or resposition the bars on the roof. Don't be afraid of drilling holes in the box or the pop-top, they can easily be repaired. These things are temporary.

I may have done both but don't do what I did and add more bars. They end up being too heavy.

Holy roof rack, Batman! How do you raise your pop top?

Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:14 am

after you decide the spacing of the bars...

is there any difference or advantage by putting the box forward or at center or rear of the roof?

thanks

Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:48 am

0to60in6min wrote: after you decide the spacing of the bars...

is there any difference or advantage by putting the box forward or at center or rear of the roof?

thanks

Not all the way forward. Contrary to popular opinion there is actually some aerodynamics to these rolling bricks.
Better to have the front of your box aft of the "B" pillar.

You have Westy, better to make a panel insert to fit into the Westy luggage box up front or mount a solar panel in it that will act as a cover for it. That open luggage area kills the fuel mileage by creating turbulence. If there is some sort of covering on it the airflow is better and so is mpg.