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Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:00 pm

1970 bus rear brake job.

Hub won't go back on after replacing the brake shoes and cylinder. Tried every way I know how to adjust the shoes so the hub will go on. Do I need to open the bleeder valve and compress the wheel cylinder? Any other methods of getting them to go closer together? Stars are all the way in.

Thanks

Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:31 pm

no if that were the case you would have such a drag once you got the drum on you would burn up the brakes going down the road. have you tried centering the shoe's ? is the park brake backed off? Do you have a photo? if you open the bleeder and the wheel cylinder releases then you better check your hose's and or master there is another problem.

Sat Nov 10, 2012 4:22 pm

Did you get the slots in the pistons aligned properly so the shoes can go down into them?

Sat Nov 10, 2012 5:40 pm

Got it guys! Thanks for the help! I had to compress with a band clamp and then it went on fine. Went to bleed the brakes and now the brake reservoir cap is cracked and falling into pieces. Always something. But I am having fun!

Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:23 pm

Next problem. Started bleeding the brakes and my son said that the pedal never pumped up. He kept pumping and about 15 pumps in I saw the right front peeing on the ground. Not from the outside but inside! So I take the hub off and have him pump it once to see where the leak was located. The metal line fron the top cylinder to the bottom cylinder was leaking at the top. The nut was tight so I had him push one more time. The fluid was coming out from around the line. Can't see any cracks, so I guess I will replace the line. I think I probably need to replace the shoes on the front again as they are soaked in brake fluid. What do you guys think?

Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:26 pm

New Brazilian cylinder?, many have a really deep hole that the stock ends (nuts) on the lines bottom out in before the flare touches the cone.

Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:32 pm

Not sure of its country of origin but I think that is probably what is happening. Any solutions?

Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:39 pm

A line with a longer nut (or change the nut on yours if you are comfortable with flaring tools and have one that does the inverse double flare). Your FLAPS should have a metric line that's close but be careful where you bend up and put the excess line so it doesn't rub through on a hub or shoe.

Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:53 pm

As far as the brake fluid on the shoes...I've had success with cleaning the shoes with brake cleaner-it comes in a spray can ,it is nasty to your body so wear gloves,mask when applying

Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:53 pm

Thanks BD. Do you think I need to change the shoes?

Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:22 pm

Because they got a little wet?, not if you wipe them off now and give them a few treatments with brakleen and a paper towel.

Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:39 pm

tubing bender

Aloha
tp

Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:54 pm

Thanks guys I'll go clean them now!

Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:06 pm

Brake fluid is water soluble, hose the bulk of the brake fluid off and then wipe everything down with a sponge or stiff brush if need be.

Tue Nov 13, 2012 5:13 pm

Worked all day going over the brakes. Replaced the front hard lines inside the hub. No leaks. Replaced one of the new cylinders I suspected of leaking. Bled everything and the pedal still goes all the way to the floor! Pumps up some but doesn't stop well at all.On the bright side the engine is running great!

What is my next step fellas?

Tue Nov 13, 2012 5:17 pm

Are the brakes properly adjusted all the way around?

Tue Nov 13, 2012 5:19 pm

well you still got air in there or a bad master cylinder or both.