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Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:28 pm

I purchased the crank and flywheel together. I never thought of trying to put the flywheel on until today. I know the dowels are a certain pattern and only go on one way. I get the flywheel to sit about a 1/16 on to the dowels and no farther. Does anyone have any Ideas how to get this to go on. I am about at the end of my rope with this car I have never had so many problems during an engine build.
Thanks
Oldgit

Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:38 pm

Glad you posted, I have the exact same problem. My 8 dowel crank and flywheel came from brothers. I am afraid that if I try to press it on or tighten the nut, something will give or bind and I will regret it.

Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:43 pm

You can coat each hole with black marker and lightly install. Find the interference and then gently open the hole with a chainsaw file. The home method of removal can be this......easy to make and works like a charm. Little by little...it can take time.

Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:43 pm

Mine came from DRD. Thanks for the idea Murzi. I guess its back out to the garage to try this. I only have a week until I move and I am not towing this car anymore. I already feel like using it for target practice.

Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:44 pm

Try a dead blow hammer.

Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:50 pm

Glenn wrote: Try a dead blow hammer.
Not a chance, I tried it, thanks though.

Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:55 pm

The file and some TLC seems the way to go. Hammer did not work for me either.

Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:56 pm

You are not the first or last person to have this problem. We were intsalling a flywheel a while back and actually sheared on of the dowel pins, fortunately I had purchased a 2nd flywheel and crank that we lightly reamed the holes in the flywheel to actually join the 2. I still need to remove the broken dowel pin from the crank when I have a chance to visit a friend with a plasma cutter.
I would lightly assemble the 2 then ream the holes as necessary to acheive a proper fit. Both of my German counterweighted cranks and flywheels came from a reputable shop also, but they are machined on two seperate machines so after time the tolerances grow.I think that you will need grease,
a deadblow hammer, a spare glandnut, an impact wrench and a tapered reamer.
Good Luck
Woodsbuggy

Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:00 pm

woodsbuggy wrote: You are not the first or last person to have this problem. We were intsalling a flywheel a while back and actually sheared on of the dowel pins, fortunately I had purchased a 2nd flywheel and crank that we lightly reamed the holes in the flywheel to actually join the 2. I still need to remove the broken dowel pin from the crank when I have a chance to visit a friend with a plasma cutter.
I would lightly assemble the 2 then ream the holes as necessary to acheive a proper fit. Both of my German counterweighted cranks and flywheels came from a reputable shop also, but they are machined on two seperate machines so after time the tolerances grow.
Good Luck
Woodsbuggy

makes sense!

Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:44 pm

Measure the dowel pin diameters. There were/are some that are .001" larger. Also look for burrs on the dowels. Try to put it on with only 2 or 4 dowels first and check the fit

Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:53 pm

chrisflstf wrote: Measure the dowel pin diameters. There were/are some that are .001" larger. Also look for burrs on the dowels. Try to put it on with only 2 or 4 dowels first and check the fit
Out of curiosity how do you get the dowels out. I was going to try this but could not get them out

Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:42 pm

Getting dowel pins out depends on how tight they are in there. Dowels are hardened, so you can use visegrips, as long as you dont squeeze the crap out of them and nick/burr them up. You can always buy new ones if you do. A local machine shop may have a collet type of pin puller

Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:55 pm

Use one or two dowel pins to locate the flywheel to the crank then install the flywheel. The carefully drive the dowels throught the flwheel into the crank.

Thu Sep 06, 2012 10:19 pm

Dowel pins can be easily removed if the crank is not installed yet. Simply put a vise grip tightly on a dowel and 'ring' the crank with a hammer. Be prepared to catch the crank as it comes loose quite easily once struck with the hammer. Once installed its a different story. Its a 2-man operation.

Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:31 pm

I did the marker thing and found one dowel was slightly tight. I used a jewelers file and filed the hole slightly and the crank went on. Its still tight but it goes on.
Thank you for all the reply's,
Oldgit

Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:44 pm

in this case I think tight is better than loose,but rong place or cocked needs attn.only take out what it needs to go on, remember it may not be the dowel/hole your working on thats the issue, that one may be in the right place but another is offsetting the hole just enough, so befor altering look very close, some dowels stick out farther than others,look for cocked or even a hole that isant quite right, possiably has a burr that is "rotating" the assy just enough to effup another dowell/hole position.