TheSamba.com :: View topic - FYI - car audio install- inline breaker not a use once fuse

Tue May 22, 2012 10:49 pm

Just a heads for anyone install power amp in the van
Normally you get these big in line fuse when wiring you amp to the house battery
I just picked up these neat auto in line breakers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400230820915

I guess I should also ask aone ever use these with bad experience

I kinda realize we have the off-shore mfg & the price is inexpensive
but also s long the breaker open & if it failed after 5 over amps it still a better deal than a inline & no music that night :)

Wed May 23, 2012 2:33 am

150 amps is a lot of power, does your stereo really draw that much?

Wed May 23, 2012 11:48 am

Wildthings wrote: 150 amps is a lot of power, does your stereo really draw that much?

X2 on that!

8G wire is pretty common for wiring a modest amp. That wire gauge is generally matched with a 50 amp fuse. So, unless your amp is a real monster, a 150 amp circuit breaker is too large.

Related note:
I have been reading up on this topic, and found a superb online "class" in automotive wiring, covering all aspects of things 12 volt and especially car audio wiring, practice and theory. I highly recommend it.

http://www.bcae1.com/

-CJ

Wed May 23, 2012 8:40 pm

No i was just too lazy to point to the 50amp breaker
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CIRCUIT-BREAKER-50-AMP-INL...19ae9cc7cf

I just wanted to point out the style of breaker vs fuse
I had not seen that before

Wed May 23, 2012 9:25 pm

There are several types of inline breakers for 12V applications. I have used most of them without problems. These are the most common types for our needs:

Type I - Automatic Reset: Cycles off and then back on after an overload, continuously.

Type II - Modified Reset: Non-cycling, breaker remains off after tripping until power is removed. Resets when power is turned back on.

Type III - Manual Reset: Non-cycling, breaker remains off until button is pushed to reset.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d60_dc_circuit_breakers.html

There are also circuit breakers designed to replace many standard fuse types. The ATC/ATO fuses in '86-'91 vans can be swapped out to re-settable breakers with very little effort (but at considerably more expense than carrying some extra fuses).

The manual reset inline breaker that you linked to works well for large gauge wire (I use one on the supply wire from my auxiliary batteries to the Blue Seas fuse block), but I have seen the set screws loosen over time before. A little blue threadlock or an occasional check for tightness is recommended.

Thu May 24, 2012 10:35 am

thatvwbusguy wrote:
The manual reset inline breaker that you linked to works well for large gauge wire (I use one on the supply wire from my auxiliary batteries to the Blue Seas fuse block)
wow I was a little concerned about using these low end audio circuit breakers
when used for handling starting Amps on 1/0g wire if you combine the house with a start battery ..I spent a whole lotta $$($90/breaker) on the
panel mount bluesea 7049 aka BussMan 187200ap
http://bluesea.com/products/7049
or surface mount 7190
http://bluesea.com/category/3/10/productline/overview/433

on the supply line that inter connect the house & start batteries...
You are saying these type of 200-300 amp audio breaker are working out ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360381292765

I also like it so that you can use it as a switch so you can work on the load side of the house battery bank & not bother with the unhook the negative cable routine

I also some what concerned now after reading http://www.bcae1.com/cirbrakr.htm

"You should remember:
1.Do not use a circuit breaker in place of a fuse to protect electronic components such as amplifiers. "

but I believe this would only be an issue if the breaker was tripped multiple times ..

Thu May 24, 2012 10:47 am

thatvwbusguy wrote: but I have seen the set screws loosen over time before. A little blue threadlock or an occasional check for tightness is recommended.
that why I bought one of these Hydraulic Crimping Tools for large guage wire
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150807581230
& crimped on lugs

figured it would also come in handy for a off grid solar work

Thu May 24, 2012 2:04 pm

The use of a Type I Automatic Reset circuit breaker wouldn't be a good choice for a circuit that draws a lot of power all at once. However the website saying that it is not a good choice for use with an amplifier might be a little misleading (assuming a properly sized breaker) when you consider that most decent quality car amplifiers will have at least one fuse (usually an ATC blade fuse) onboard to protect it.

It has been my experience that many folks in the car audio crowd like to run giant wires, large capacitors and 24K gold plated fuses for the look as much (or often more) than any actual need. As an example, my friend Paul has a single 250W 2 Channel amplifier in his Civic that was hooked up with 4GA supply wire and a 150A gold plated AGU inline fuse. When I asked him why he went so overboard on the wiring, he said "That's what the installer said I needed"...

Buying the cheapest unbranded stuff available on eBay is a gamble for sure, and is not advisable for any system that has to be zero fail 100% of the time. If you can get a brand you know for a little bit more up-front expense, it is always recommended.