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Fri May 04, 2012 10:32 pm

There are some good threads here that cover refreshing the propane tank and they helped me figure out how to do mine. Here is the path I went down.

-New U.S. made Rego valves from my local propane distributor
-New regulator from GoWesty
-1 Spray can of Rust-Oleum Galvanized Paint
-3/4 Spray can of Rest-Oleum Truck bed line
-1 Spray can of 99 cent white paint
-1 Spray can of Bondo rubberized under coating
-Used a loaner flaring tool from O’Reilly auto parts, you pay for the tool and they refund your money if you return it in 48 hours.

Pulling the tank off was pretty easy. Sanding it was a pain and getting the valves off was tough but nothing a 24” pipe wrench couldn’t overcome. My tank was rustier than I thought so I am sure I’ll see some rust again and will replace it with a new tank next time. I am hoping Manchester or somebody will come up with a bigger tank that doesn’t take away ground clearance. There is room for a longer tank and I’d love to find one I could fit in there.
After sanding it down I put on 3 coats of galvanized paint then put two light coats of truck bed liner on the bottom side of the tank and skid plate. I am expecting to see a little rusty to eventually show back up so I just did a light top coat with cheap white paint. I am expecting the galvanized paint and truck bed liner to protect the tank, the white was just to change the color and not really for protection.

After pulling the tank down I noticed I was losing some undercoating on the van chassis so I cleaned things up and sprayed on a new coat. Mounted the tank back up, filled with propane and used soapy water to check for leaks. No leaks and all the propane accessories work great, stove, frig and propex :D

Ready for paint or as ready I was going to get it.

Galvanized paint is on

Truck bed liner on the bottom side

Lost some under coating

New Under coating

Ready to camp

Lessons learned
1. Sanding the tank took a longer than I thought
2. Point the outlet for the bleeder to the side or down. Mine is pointed up and the first fill blasted off the undercoating right above it.
3. My propex heater is mounted under the rear seat so the propane line runs from the front of the propane tank back. The new regulator on the propane tanks is longer so I needed a couple more inches of propane line to make up the difference from the connection point being further forward. I was able to tweak the routing of the propane line however I sure wished I had given myself a little extra propane line when I installed my propex.

Fri May 04, 2012 11:02 pm

Thanks for posting

Was this tank fitted with the OEM AutoFill type fill valve? If so, did you replace it with a manual fill valve? If so, what is the PN of manual valve please?

Neil.

Sat May 05, 2012 11:20 am

That looks great, nicely done.
These old tanks are more stout than they appear, even with some rust on them. This is on my to-do list in the fall/winter.

Sat May 05, 2012 12:20 pm

Vanagon Nut wrote:
Was this tank fitted with the OEM AutoFill type fill valve? If so, did you replace it with a manual fill valve? If so, what is the PN of manual valve please?

Yes it had the OEM AutoFill get stuck and lose your propane valve on it. Here is the valve combination that I went with.

Fill Valve 7647SC
Service Valve 9106CO
Bleeder 3165C has a small knob on top and is the one I went with
Bleeder TSS3169 is stainless and has a tee handle which may be easier to turn than the small knob on the 3169c. I've never used it so I can only say it LOOKS easier to deal with

I should also note that with the valves, regulator, paint, shipping and taxes made it about $125 to do the job. The valves and regulator could probably be found for less however the suppliers I used helped me out so I don't mind paying for the help.

Sat May 05, 2012 12:27 pm

SSWesty. Thanks for PN's. I see a Rego distributor not too far from me up here in Vancouver BC

My "Notto Fill" valve is ok now, but I just don't want to use it. Ever. Will burn off fuel and see if I can't get away with a tank refurb.

Neil.

Sat May 05, 2012 1:20 pm

Vanagon Nut wrote: SSWesty. Thanks for PN's. I see a Rego distributor not too far from me up here in Vancouver BC

My "Notto Fill" valve is ok now, but I just don't want to use it. Ever. Will burn off fuel and see if I can't get away with a tank refurb.

Neil.

I'm having problems finding a place who will fill my tank. Both stations I've been to, their nozzles won't go past the skid plate. Must be new nozzles because I didn't have this problem in past years.

Sat May 05, 2012 1:50 pm

photogdave wrote: Vanagon Nut wrote: SSWesty. Thanks for PN's. I see a Rego distributor not too far from me up here in Vancouver BC

My "Notto Fill" valve is ok now, but I just don't want to use it. Ever. Will burn off fuel and see if I can't get away with a tank refurb.

Neil.

I'm having problems finding a place who will fill my tank. Both stations I've been to, their nozzles won't go past the skid plate. Must be new nozzles because I didn't have this problem in past years.

The jockey must be clueless. Or is there a difference between 2WD and Syncro in terms of LP tank skid plate position?

I've filled at the Petro Can corner of Main and Mountain in NV w/o issue. (other than jockey grumpiness)

http://www.petro-canada.ca/en/locations/4085.aspx?MODE=DTS&ID=92579

Neil.

Sat May 05, 2012 4:28 pm

Did you have to get your tank re-certified in order to get it filled? Any idea what they look for? I'd like to go and get my tank topped off before I go camping but I don't want to have to spend a day getting it inspected.

"According to Federal Law DOT Propane Tanks (the type used on RVs) must be recertified after being used for 12 years after the date the tank was manufactured. All DOT tanks are stamped with the date they were manufactured."

Sat May 05, 2012 8:12 pm

well the DOT tanks they use on RVs are the upright external 20-30-40# tanks like your BBQ tank.

a Permanent mounted RV tank is not the same designation and DOES NOT require inspection or recertification.

there are threads here with with the legaleze, I'm too tired to search at the moment..

you do need to have the ID tag/plate that's welded onto the tank, but it's so far underneath the bus that if you have a crusty one, remove it and clean & paint the tank (all the pump jockey is looking for is a clean/non-rusty tank anyways) we've never had a problem.. I was thinking of having a new plate engraved, or a decal made with the details and mounting it on the skid plate.

Dan

Sat May 05, 2012 9:08 pm

Quote: I was thinking of having a new plate engraved, or a decal made with the details and mounting it on the skid plate.

HEAR HEAR!

The way they welded on that label by just two sides, water got behind it and ruined it before I could do anything about it, being Winston's 3rd Owner. I wish we could come up with a decal template, or a plate template, so that we could IN GOOD FAITH reproduce the information on our plates, and put it on the tanks after we've painted them.

I'm also working with 1971BugGuy, who has done nearly all the work, and wonders, on reproducing our original Westfalia Werke builder's plates--the ones that went on the exterior and got clobbered by the elements--so that you could put in as much as you had of your actual information and have it printed on a metal plate you could attach in the place of the old plate. The tank plates would be a very similar project. I'm NOT trying to break the law or deceive--I'm trying to keep a perfectly sound propane tank from being discarded for the lack of a badly-attached label!

Best!

Sun May 06, 2012 12:52 pm

When I cut the certification plate off my tank the rust behind the plate had started to pit the metal. The rust behind the plate was definitely the worst spot on the tank. I decided not to put the plate back on and I am sure I'll jinx myself but I've never had anyone look to see if the tank was certified before filling. I've only had it filled in Washington and California.

Sun May 06, 2012 1:05 pm

Before installing a new tank on my '81, ID plate (old 4 corner spot welded type) on old one was half off.

pics of tag and rust etc.

https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/PropaneLPTank#

It was still getting filled no one balked at it here in BC or in WA, OR, poss. ID. It did have a newer style 2 stage reg though. edit: looking at pics again, maybe not a 2 stage reg? Certainly not original part. Was replaced by PO.

Not saying it's the right thing to do. Just saying how little attention was paid to the tank itself.

Removed tag. What was left of it and chunks of crap that came out from behind it:

Wed May 30, 2012 7:06 pm

I found all the other valves online, but I cannot seem to find this valve:
Service Valve 9106CO (on/off valve?)

OP, where did you purchase it? I know I can get it from one particular source, but it seems very expensive considering I found the other valves combined to be below $20...

Thanks in advance

Wed May 30, 2012 10:39 pm

Yep that valve is harder to find. I got mine from a propane supplier that isn't online so you need to walk in to buy. Probably not worth the drive from Idaho to Kent, WA. One option is to order a similar one from Terry Kay, he posts here so just search on his name. Or call these guys http://www.teecoproducts.com/auburn.html and see if they sell to anyone local in your area. I called them and they only deal with other companies and not one off Westfalia owners. However they were kind enough tell me who they sell to in my area.

Good luck on your search!

Thu May 31, 2012 5:25 am

Vanagon nut, in response to the ID plate off the tank - in Canada (not sure about the US), propane tanks on RVs do NOT need periodic re-certification like portable BBQ tanks do.

So that would be why filling stations aren't concerned about checking the plate for a re-cert date. I checked this when re doing my own tank.

Wed Jun 02, 2021 2:13 pm

greenbrier62 wrote: I found all the other valves online, but I cannot seem to find this valve:
Service Valve 9106CO (on/off valve?)

OP, where did you purchase it? I know I can get it from one particular source, but it seems very expensive considering I found the other valves combined to be below $20...

Thanks in advance

A bit of a thread resurrection but I figured it might be relevant to those like myself who are tackling the propane tank rebuild. I was able to find the service valve 9106CO at propanegear.com for a reasonable price, in stock, and I was charged no tax which is a wonderful touch:

https://propanegear.com/cylinder-valve-for-rv-and-small-asme/

I had reached out to Terry for the valve but he said he had nothing in stock due to the pandemic. Propanegear doesn't have the picture of the valve on the link above but rest assured, it's the right valve. I hope this helps the community.

Wed Jun 02, 2021 4:51 pm

Great write up! I’ll definitely be making use of this at some point.

Wonder if one could take a couple of these, from a common air compressor, and double them up down there. I don’t know the actual sizes, but seem very close.

Mon Jan 31, 2022 5:59 pm

FYI - I have all the items needed to refurbish the Westy propane supply system in stock right now at VANAVATION.

https://www.vanavation.com/

Jim Davis

Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:28 pm

Please educate me on the various valves that our tanks use.

Long story short, I thought my tank was out of propane but the local RV place couldn't push any propane into the tank and stated "your auto fill valve is stuck. We can order you a new one". I've had some hit-or-miss experiences getting my tank filled so I'm a little skeptical of that.

What does that valve do and would it also prevent propane from leaving the tank causing my stove to fizzle out even if there was still propane in the tank?

Fri Jul 08, 2022 7:07 am

Search for "Auto Stop" valves to learn how they should work.
Then remove it and throw it away.
Replace it with a standard fill valve and bleed screw.

The auto stop system seizes up inside. I dismantled mine, cleaned it, it worked once more, then same problem.