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Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:26 am

I've had one that's been getting caked with dirt and such during my rebuild. How do I go about cleaning it and then regreasing it? Or is it not possible?

Thu Feb 09, 2012 10:14 am

I'd recommend replacing. Why risk the need to have to drop the engine later over $20?

Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:12 pm

in theory you could use a parts cleaner to get it clean, then re-pack it, but I would put a new one in while it's apart. why risk it

Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:12 pm

Replace with the best quality available.

Thu Feb 09, 2012 3:21 pm

Got it guys. I actually have a brand new one sitting in a box, but was hoping I could have that as a spare while I clean up my old one. I'll just use it then.
Do new ones have to be greased? It's an OE one, whatever brand that is. It seems really sealed up, which is why I was concerned about cleaning it because I was afraid it's impossible to re grease.

Thu Feb 09, 2012 3:32 pm

This should answer your questions: From Rob and Dave's website.
Throw-out Bearing Replacement

See also our Throw-out Bearing Discussion
(questions and answers).

~~~

Note: Both the Bentley Manual and the Haynes Manual call this a Clutch Release Bearing. The bearing is situated at the rear of the transmission. It is fastened to the clutch operating shaft by two retaining springs. It is supported by a central guide sleeve.

To lubricate the throw-out bearing, roughen the surface of the plastic facing ring on the throw-out bearing with coarse emery cloth. Then rub in a small amount of molybdenum grease. Do this routinely whenever the engine is removed.

To remove the throw-out bearing, pry the retaining springs off with a screwdriver. Hold a rag over the springs to prevent them from flying off and becoming lost when tension is relieved.

Check the general condition of the bearing. Hand-turn it; it should not feel gritty or be difficult to turn. Make sure the plastic facing ring has not worn through. If necessary, replace the bearing.

Note: Never wash the bearing in solvent since this will remove the factory-installed lubricant.

Lightly lubricate the operating shaft bushings with multipurpose grease. Lightly lubricate the guide sleeve with molybdenum grease.

Install the throw-out bearing and the retaining springs. Make certain that the hooked ends of the springs engage behind the levers on the operating shaft. Replace loose-fitting retaining springs.

After you install the engine, check the clutch pedal freeplay and adjust as necessary (10-20mm).

While you're there, check the condition of the rubber sleeve and the position of the flexible guide tube. If cracked or loose fitting, replace. The flexible guide tube should sag 25 to 45 mm. This sag can be adjusted by adding or subtracting spacer washers.

Note: Excessive sag in the flexible guide tube will cause the cable to bind, creating noise, difficult clutch pedal operation, or even cable breakage. If the sag is inadequate, there will be insufficient preload on the cable. This can cause poor clutch pedal feel and accelerated wear.

Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:10 pm

Vinnems wrote: I've had one that's been getting caked with dirt and such during my rebuild. How do I go about cleaning it and then regreasing it? Or is it not possible?

If you know it is relatively new and want to re use it just clean the crap off it with a rag. If you do not know the history on it, throw it out and use a new one.

Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:38 pm

Agree with all of the above.

TO bearing is one of those things that you replace anytime you access it. Since MOST people (might have to exclude all members of TheSamba.com) do not remove their engines on a regular basis, when you have access to the clutch assembly, you should consider inspecting and replacing the TO bearing. It is often one of the 1st clutch components to fail. Imagine the stress of going from zero rpm to 3000rpm almost instantly (higher if you rev higher)... that is what is expected from the TO bearing, every time you shift!

Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:56 am

REPLACE !