TheSamba.com :: View topic - oil temp, oil pressure, and cylinder head temp gauges

Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:46 am

I have no guages at all in my carrr. Ive got a tachometer im going to put in soon, but i want to put a oil pressure, oil temperature, and cylinder head temp gauge inn.

For the oil pressure and temp will this work? looks like #2350 will do the best, and would that jsut go where my oil pressure switch is at on the case?
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=837

and something like this for the cylinder head temp?

https://www.denniskirk.com/408819.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse

Also why are there 4 extra of the red loop eyes?

if anyone has any better suggestion for any type of these guages please let me know, i have no clue what im doing when it comes to gauges. lol

Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:47 am

Tach is only really good if you are going to drag race or are totally deaf. If you are just going to daily drive and can hear just fine, suggest you temp install the tach for fifteen minute drive. Have a passenger hold the tach and write down MPH/RPM ranges in each gear. Especially MPH where you hit 3,000 RPM in all four forward gears and 1,500 RPM in 2-4th gears. Once you have that written down a normal driver does not need a tach.

The dual post oil pressure senders have had reports of not reading as fast as single post senders. Plus with two in one sender if that sender goes bad you have neither idiot light or functioning gauge.

You do have to be careful when installing added senders to the idiot light sender port. Too tight and you can crack the engine case (threads are tapered fit/seal), and same if you bump the added senders!!! Then you have a nasty constant oil leak.

The red loops are the senders. Would suggest just getting a VDO head temp gauge and sender. You can pick up the gauge for as little as $5.00 at a swap meet.

Sun Jan 15, 2012 2:56 pm

Well I've got a tach laying around and thought it'd be nice to put in there just so I can see my RPMs

How slow will the senders read? The oil temps dont change really quick so I couldnt see how it could change much slower than the oil is itselff. Is there a way to put a oil pressure guage and temp in without a dual post thats more efficient han the dual post?

i see one of the red loops is a sender, why are there 4 others that have no wires attached to them?

Whats a VDO head temp guage? and link me to one youd recommend please?

Sun Jan 15, 2012 3:14 pm

Please don't buy that thing from CB. Better to have no information than incorrect information. Really not much oil comes out of the stock sender hole to adequately characterize the oil temperature.

I am going to link to aircooled.net, but they can be found elsewhere. I like them as they sell the good stuff.

VDO OP gauge....buy one that goes from 0-80 psi and has a dipole 10mm x 1.0mm so it actually fits in the case hole without leaking. Another option is to buy a "T" and to use the factory OP sender (for the idiot light) and the other end would be for a single pole for the gauge.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=LGU0008&cartid=

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=LGU0012&cartid=

Get the OT sender that mounts in the oil relief plug.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=LGU0017&cartid=

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=LGU0001&cartid=

Correct manner for installing the VDO sender....

http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/customer/home.php?gspage=customer/main/tech/cht/cht_install.tpl

Here is something to read about VDO gauges....I used to have them but switched both buses to the Dakota Digital ones. IMO, for a pretty much stock daily driver you really don't need a CHT gauge in a beetle.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VDOGauges.html

Sun Jan 15, 2012 4:10 pm

Have not heard how slow, but when you only have 2-3 seconds to shut it down when the oil light comes on....

Would get that adapter and install oil idiot light sender and a single pole pressure sender instead.

Then install a temp sender in a oil filter/pump as built by CB if running aftermarket extractor type muffler or VW of Mexico one with stock muffler. Would not be hard to drill and tap a 1/8" taper threaded hole for the sender.
Or if engine rebuild time drill and tap the oil temp sender into the case itself.

As to why four loops, probably as back up replacement, or so you could install on all four cylinders and still have a spare.

Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:38 pm

Its surprises me that CB would sell such a stupidly designed piece of shit

For starters that oil temp sensor is going to read no where near accurate...
But the biggest problem is that is alot of offset weight swinging of a weak spot of the case known for cracking.

Stick with the temp sender in the reliefe valve if you don't wanna drill and tap the case.

Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:04 pm

will this list give me all the things I need, senders an gauges, to set up oil temp, oil pressure, head temps, and still keep the idiot light?

Heres a direct link to the photo, it's sort of hard to read since it got desized when posted up here

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/885871.jpg

Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:07 am

Eric&Barb wrote: Tach is only really good if you are going to drag race or are totally deaf. If you are just going to daily drive and can hear just fine, suggest you temp install the tach for fifteen minute drive. Have a passenger hold the tach and write down MPH/RPM ranges in each gear. Especially MPH where you hit 3,000 RPM in all four forward gears and 1,500 RPM in 2-4th gears. Once you have that written down a normal driver does not need a tach.

The dual post oil pressure senders have had reports of not reading as fast as single post senders. Plus with two in one sender if that sender goes bad you have neither idiot light or functioning gauge.

You do have to be careful when installing added senders to the idiot light sender port. Too tight and you can crack the engine case (threads are tapered fit/seal), and same if you bump the added senders!!! Then you have a nasty constant oil leak.

The red loops are the senders. Would suggest just getting a VDO head temp gauge and sender. You can pick up the gauge for as little as $5.00 at a swap meet.
I would have to respectfully disagree about the tachometer statement. Driving by MPH may work fine on a flat road but hills are another story. When downshifting on a hill I use the tach to keep the engine in the power band so as not to over-rev or lug the engine. Another plus is I always have a tach hooked up for tune-ups and things like that.

Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:27 am

The only things I would add to the list would be some sort of a mounting panel....

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ISD0016&cartid=0115201240588461

and the adapter (between the 10mm x 1.0mm case thread and the 1/8" x 27 gauge sender thread)....

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/M10x1-Male--18-NPT-Female-Adaptor_p_57.html

Might want to think about how you intend to run the wires....most bus guys run a 3/8" wiring loom and run all of the 14 gauge wires in there (along with the CHT sender wire) securly mounted to something that doesn't move. A trailer wiring harness will also work in the loom.

Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:49 am

The aircooled website has changed those are the old site which gives wrong prices. Goto: http://vwparts.aircooled.net/

Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:53 am

Good point. I don't get out like I used to. Sorry for the confusion.

Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:44 pm

for the temperature sender for the oil, whats the best location for it? the drain plug, oil cooler relief plug, or oil pressure switch location?

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VDO-300F-Oil-Temp-Sending-Unit-14-X-1-5mm-p/v323055.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VDO-300F-Oil-Temp-Sending-Unit-1-8-X-27-NPT-p/v323057.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VDO-300F-Oil-Temp-Sending-Unit-18-X-1-5mm-p/v323064.htm

And is this what I want for an oil pressure switch that I can also keep my idiot light as well?

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VDO-80psi-Oil-Pressure-Sending-Unit-10-X-1mm-p/v360006.htm

Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:51 pm

the new site is a lot easier to use and the prices are lower than our old one.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VW-Gauges-s/200.htm

Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:45 pm

So I updated the part list with the new site. Will the list give me everything I need to have the CHT, oil pressure, oil temperature, and idiot light working with the gauges I've added on the list

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/886244.jpg

Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:16 pm

my only recommendation is to change to a 1 pole gauge only sending unit. Use that with a "T" and a stock idiot light switch. The stock oil light switch is 2.5psi, the VDO is 7.5psi, and the VDO one can flicker causing heart attacks and general uneasiness at idle, when everything is fine.

Oh, and the CHT gauge comes WITH the sender, only buy another if you want an extra.

Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:20 pm

Does this sender go with this "T" adapter?

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VDO-Sending-Unit-T-Adapter-1-8-27-p/v240850.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VDO-80psi-Oil-Pressure-Sending-Unit-1-8-27-NPTF-p/v360003.htm

I've never heard of the size "1/8 - 27" but they both say the same number while this link says 10 x 1mm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VDO-80psi-Oil-Pressure-Sending-Unit-10-X-1mm-p/v360001.htm

If I have a stock sized idiot light sender in my case right now, will the first 2 links work with it?

Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:53 pm

Basic Question.

The VW Beetle Engine has two Cylinder Heads although, when I hear
of (CHT) Cylinder Head Temp installs they most alway's mention One Guage and One Sender at Spark Plug # 3.
Appears Full Coverage arrangement should be Two Heads = Two Guages,
Two Senders ?

Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:36 pm

cferry7 wrote: Basic Question.

The VW Beetle Engine has two Cylinder Heads although, when I hear
of (CHT) Cylinder Head Temp installs they most alway's mention One Guage and One Sender at Spark Plug # 3.
Appears Full Coverage arrangement should be Two Heads = Two Guages,
Two Senders ?

well since #3 is the one that get the hottest wouldnt you only care to see the one thats the hottest? since if you know that ones 350 degrees, the other ones would most likly be cooler right?

Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:18 pm

Put the sender on #3 cylinder and move on.

Tue Jan 24, 2012 2:29 pm

Quote: #3 is the one that get the hottest?

Is this still a case with a doghouse shroud since the oil coller no longer shares the same air flow? Not trying to start an arguement, just a clafication on my part.