TheSamba.com :: View topic - how easy is it to replace springs/shocks?

Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:40 am

As per the subject.. I have ordered some koni shocks with weitec springs for my 91 westy.

How easy are they to replace?

Do you need a special tool to compress the springs?

Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:59 am

There is a lot of posts related to this subject.

Weitecs go in easy, due to their reduced height. I did not need compressor to do this. Shocks can be a pain in the butt as the mount bolts /nuts are infrequently looked at and rust up.

Soak it down with PB Blaster for a day of two leading up to the job and you should be OK.

Use the search and find out some of the tricks.

Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:01 am

hrmm.. I did search for "koni" and "weitec" and "lower van" but didn't find any threads relating to fitting tips.

could you point me at the thread you're thinking of?

Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:20 am

Do you have a Bentley manual? You may find an online version you can download and use as reference. You should not start this until you have an idea of overall procedure.

Observe all prescribed safety precautions. Secure jack stands, chock blocks, etc.

As for rear springs - once you remove the shock, you should be able to apply enough pressure to lower arm to remove and install springs. Easy stuff.

As for front - bit more involved. Remove shock bolts ands slide out shock. Remove caliper mount bolts and move caliper out of way (support it so it does not hang on line) and then I removed the forward nut on the radial arm. Be careful to mark this as best you can, so you can return this nut to its proper place.

Supporting the lower control arm with a floor jack, I removed the two allen head bolts on upper arm that hold ball joint in place. You can now push up the control arm out of the way.

Slowly lower the floor jack to relieve pressure on the spring. Pull spindle assembly out of the way, and with a bit of pressure I was able to slide out front spring. Reverse procedure to replace spring.

With the Carat, the springs are a bit shorter and should be easier to remove than my Westy.

After you are done, make an appointment at an alignment shop.

Good luck.

Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:19 am

on 2WD easy enough that I can do myself. You just follow the instructions from chojinchef ...

on Syncro, the rear is easy as on 2WD, the front... errr... I bring it to the shop... I sweat just looking at it...

have fun..

Sat Jan 07, 2012 11:44 am

t3hw4h wrote:
How easy are they to replace?

"Ease" is relative. But a novice home-mechanic who is interested in figuring out how things work and why things are designed as they are? That "novice" might find your particular task to be downright enjoyable with a very high satisfaction quotient in the project completed.
(Ask me how I know. :wink: )

Rust not withstanding..

(Rust sucks the life out of the "satisfaction" part of the equation. But rust can be managed. If you are not familiar with the tried and true in dealing with rust, read up. Just know that Rust is not the end of it all.
Heat.. PB Blaster, WD40, many different methods work in different applications.)

Quote: Do you need a special tool to compress the springs?
No.
Emphatically.. "NO".

Cheap spring compressors can be down right dangerous and they do not help much at all in this Vanagon suspension application. Arguably they can get in the way and make the project MORE frustrating. There are some nice spring comressors that might help.. but they are $$$.

Follow the Chef's instructions, and above all.. DO NOT BE IN A HURRY.

(one small suggestion regarding the Chef's instructions. Loosen both sides of the radius control arm at the bulkhead.. That will allow for more droop with less effort and the springs will literally fall out. (Watch your toes.)

Set aside, a weekend do to the job.. Take your time. Take many breaks to think things thru. Observe and record with a digital camera as you go.
DO NOT be surprised that you find other things that need attention, like balljoints..

It is not critical that you drop everything and tend to balljoints, NOW.. but if the boots are torn or the spindle is wobbly.. Just make a mental note. You'll want to rehab your front end shortly.
Also look closely at your brakes.. and check play in your wheel bearings, steering rack, tie rod ends, etc.. Check all fasteners... sway bar, drop links.. look at those sbushings everywhere.. Are any cracked?

Make a list...

The experience you gain will count ten-fold towards new projects down the road.

If you run into a problem.. just post back up in this thread. And don't be shy.
I am sure the collective Samba can help you thru it all.

Sat Jan 07, 2012 12:16 pm

Fronts, http://campervanculture.com/2011/02/lifting-front-suspension-on-vw-t25-t3-syncro/

Rears, http://campervanculture.com/2011/02/how-to-lift-the-rear-of-your-syncro-for-very-little-cash/

jed

Sat Jan 07, 2012 12:34 pm

t3hw4h, I'll be interested in how your Westy drives with the Koni/Weitec combo. I recently installed Konis (set at one full turn), but I held off buying the Weitec springs because I thought they might be on the soft side. What I'd really like is a set of Eibach lowering springs, but so far I've been unable to find a retailer in North America that sells them.
Installing the rear shocks is very easy, but the fronts are a bit of a pain. I ended up extending the shock out as far a it would go, then slid it up inside the spring and through the top plate. Then I put on the top nut and jacked up the lower suspension arm until I could put the lower bolt through.
Remember not to torque the front lower bolt and the two rear shock bolts until the vehicle is resting on the ground (or ramps).

Sat Jan 07, 2012 12:41 pm

I can attest the Weitecs are anything but soft. Its a firm ride. Good handling but a firm ride. I like it but everyone has their preferences.

Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:48 pm

I wish Vanagon spring makers would list their spring rates. What's the big secret? I have a 1997 Miata, which is used mainly as a track car, and I can order springs in a wide variety of spring rates; anything from stock to 800 pounds.

Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:30 pm

911pickup wrote: I wish Vanagon spring makers would list their spring rates. What's the big secret? I have a 1997 Miata, which is used mainly as a track car, and I can order springs in a wide variety of spring rates; anything from stock to 800 pounds.

Indeed. It's unfortunate. A lot of "you stole my spring" going on between the vendors; duh, it's just a stupid spring. I think it's because Vanagon owners are weird, and that makes Vanagon vendors even weirder! :shock:

Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:08 pm

i found that the rears, you need to remove the inner CV joint, as it does not allow the trailing arm to go low enough to remove the spring
the fronts, we borrowed a pair of spring compressors to take them off take the shock off first

Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:52 am

rubbachicken wrote: i found that the rears, you need to remove the inner CV joint, as it does not allow the trailing arm to go low enough to remove the spring
the fronts, we borrowed a pair of spring compressors to take them off take the shock off first

RC you have an 85 correct? The fronts are the tallest that year.
I needed no compressor and did not need to touch cv.

Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:03 am

chojinchef wrote: rubbachicken wrote: i found that the rears, you need to remove the inner CV joint, as it does not allow the trailing arm to go low enough to remove the spring
the fronts, we borrowed a pair of spring compressors to take them off take the shock off first

RC you have an 85 correct? The fronts are the tallest that year.
I needed no compressor and did not need to touch cv.

fronts are the tallest yes, not the rears, definately need to remove the inner CV, especially when using leveling blocks, it would not have it without

Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:06 am

but this probably won't apply to a 91?

Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:47 am

t3hw4h wrote: but this probably won't apply to a 91?
On a 1991, un-doing the CV bolts at the transaxle, will make it easier to remove the rear spings.. But it may not be necessary.

On my 1989 Westy, I had my wife stand on the drum and that was all it took to pull the spring.

Either way, I'd have the 12pt bit on hand to uninstall CVs it just in case.
It won't take long to do it and its not a bad thing to have a look there anyway.

When you do remove the rear springs, check the upper and lower pads for wear. New ones can be had thru VC and other vendors (I think)
Especially check the lower sheet metal plate for rust around the outer edge. Make a note of it if it looks like it may need welding at another time down the road. If any doubt post pics and the collective can help diagnose the extent of rust.
Worn pads may contibute to lean and unevenness in stance. Rough estimate is that if they are worn and/or installed mis-aligned you might see 1/4" to 1/2" difference side to side in ride height.

So,.... make sure you get the spring back in, all aligned with the pads in proper rotation such that coil ends fit into the pre-molded depressions. (There is also a depression in the lower steel pad. (Here is where it may pay to have unbolted that CV. That will give you plenty of slack to move things back and forth to get it all properly oriented.)

Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:28 am

Spring compressors in the front are the safest way to R&R srings and shocks.

Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:57 am

insyncro wrote: Spring compressors in the front are the safest way to R&R srings and shocks.

The OP has a 2WD, no?

2WD = No need for spring compressors, in my limited experience.

Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:04 am

2WD yes.

Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:21 pm

I know a local 2wd vanagon owner with a black eye from having the spring hit him while doing it without compressors.
I use the tool for 2wd vans all the time.
I guess it depends how beat your springs are.