TheSamba.com :: View topic - best lubricant for metal shaft in plastic sleeves

Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:02 pm

So was just about to reassemble the front heater unit
Replaced oll the foam seal with epdm pipe wrap
http://www.solarpipeinsulation.com/HTML/tape.html
But what type of lubricant is best to coat the vent shafts that rotate in the plastic sleeves
Is dry lubricant like ptfe ajk teflon
Silicon ..
Or maybe white lithium ?

Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:10 pm

http://www.imagesupplyservice.com/item105136.ctlg

Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:25 pm

Molykote g1050 is awesome for metal to plastic lubrication. However I think it's only available for industrial applications; so if you know an elx shop you could ask them for a squirt.
Next would be graphite- dry solid lubes seem to work best for the metal to plastic.
3 in 1 oil works in a pinch but doesn't last long.

Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:28 pm

I realize there may be specific lubes for plastic, but I have had good luck over many years using simple greases. White Lithium, moly grease, and simple multi purpose greases with plastic to metal. I prefer moly graph type of greases even though they are dark black in color. Where they are in a place where the grease cannot get on you or hidden areas like the air box.

I use white Lithium more in places where the grease may end up on "things".

I have never seen deterioration of plastic components as a result of using
moly or white Lithium greases, The positive note is that they stay lubed for many years.

Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:37 am

I'd avoid any petroleum based products-some plastics will eventually crack after exposure. After looking at Alaric's post, I wonder if brake paste- Sil-Glyde wouldmwork well and, for me, be in your tool box already.

Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:58 am

I have usedthe dry teflon sprayss, but a moly seems pretty safe.

Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:00 am

Interesting I thought there would be a defacto right ans to this but now looks like there are as many ans as there ppl responding ;(
The only right ans seems to be dont a petro based lube
I wonder out of the suggestion so far
Moly, silicon, white lithium which one is goona last the longest & not attract dirt/dust

Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:06 am

Dri Slide works well, and will remain on the area for a long time without grabbing dust & dirt sucked into the heater box.
Do not use anything that will attract anything to slow the doors down.
White lube, oil & grease is a big no-no

Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:51 am

Terry Kay wrote: Dri Slide works well, and will remain on the area for a long time without grabbing dust & dirt sucked into the heater box.

"contains Petroleum Distillates (64742-88-7), Corrosion Inhibitor (85595-45-5), Naphthenic Oil (64742-52-5), Molybdenum Disulfide (1317-33-5), Graphite (7782-42-5)

Fri Dec 30, 2011 12:13 pm

FYI---
The petrolium distilates evaportate leaving a dry , lubricated area.

Ever use the stuff?
I have for 45 years on bike control cables where abrasive dust & dirt attraction would be a bitch--it won't do it.

Will work very well on the heater box pivot door points.

Internet gained info don't work real good in real life application.

Fri Dec 30, 2011 12:43 pm

ths tk
I think a dry lube is the right ans
I cant find the exact product in my area but I can find a oem product with Molybdenum Disulfide /Graphite and and a aerosol dispersant
so I just posted the msds ingredients list for other others
hmm but looking around a bit more looks like the ingredients have changed over time the latest msds
https://www.russack.com/msds/MSDS%20on%20D-S%20EP%...68da7664c0
lists
MINERAL SPIRITS(8052-41-3), Stoddard solvent, Graphite, PROPANE(74-98-6), BUTANE (106-97-8), TRIMETHYLBENZENE(108-67-8), PSEUDO CUMENE, XYLENE(1330-20-7) ,CRYSTALLINE SILICA(14808-60-7), QUARTZ (Si02)

as for the other deep thought you got
>Internet gained info don't work real good in real life application.
:roll:

Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:42 pm

Because the primary use for the dri slide was originally made for motorcycle application--
Non- flinging chain lube --plus the cables, a motorcycle shop would be the place to purchase it.

It comes in a non-areosol bottle with a pin point applicator.

No real sure what it uses to evaporate so fast once you have it on --whatever--but it does work well & stays put without attracting any garbage--dirt , dust, whatever.
It will work out swell in a heater application.

I'll bet it can be found via the internet too, if that is your way of purveying parts / accssories for your vehicle.

I'd rather take a ride to the local bike shop.

Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:05 pm

Bike Aid (aka - Dri-Slide) Lubricant

Iron Braid is pleased to introduce Bike Aid ® (also known as Dri-Slide), a multi-purpose lubricant made by Lilly Industries, that coats and protects better than any other commercial substance. Unlike other oil based lubricants, which attract harmful particulates that can cause damage, Bike Aid goes on wet but stays on dry. Made from a naturally occurring ore similar to graphite, Bike Aid (Molybdenum Disulfides or MoS2) is ideal for cables and other key mechanical pivot points. Avoid downtime and replacement costs, by using the first choice of professionals—Bike Aid.

Features & Choices:

Bike Aid is a petroleum based liquid medium that can be applied to virtually any surface needing lubrication.

Goes on wet but dries to leave a long lasting film that resists wear, water, dirt and other harmful UV elements.

Because it goes on in liquid form, Bike Aid can penetrate deep down into the smallest spaces.

Because Bike Aid is a dry film lubricant, it may be used in extreme environmental conditions.

Withstands pressure up to 100,000 pounds per square inch.

Bike Aid can even help restore worn or corroded parts.

The perfect lubricant for all general and household uses.

Caution: Bike Aid can stain fabrics.

Part# Description U/M Price
500 4 oz. bottle with needle Ea. 11.95
501 5.25 oz. Aerosol Can Ea. 11.95

Sat Dec 31, 2011 9:02 am

Thanks TK.
I ordered some and will test it.

D

Sat Dec 31, 2011 9:03 am

Alaric.H wrote: http://www.imagesupplyservice.com/item105136.ctlg

Ordered...will test.
Thanks Alaric.

Sat Dec 31, 2011 9:35 am

LPS 1 works well, it's another dry lubricant. We use it on aircraft cables, hinges etc as it won't attract dirt.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=lps+...9lvltgak_b

Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:06 am

Terry Kay wrote:
Bike Aid can even help restore worn or corroded parts.

Whoa. Sounds like I could hose down my whole van and it would be like new! Good find!

Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:10 am

So maybe the ultimate dry lube is a combo of molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) and PTFE (teflon)
http://mclube.com/lubricants/moly_ptfe_mixtures

http://mclube.com/products/74
that would be like dri-slide + Tri-Flow combined ...

Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:02 pm

tclark wrote: So maybe the ultimate dry lube is a combo of molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) and PTFE (teflon)
http://mclube.com/lubricants/moly_ptfe_mixtures

http://mclube.com/products/74
that would be like dri-slide + Tri-Flow combined ...

Solvent based samples requested for testing.

Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:27 pm

While I respect the merits of LPS-1 is isn't quite the same as a drying residual lubricant as the MoS2 is.

I'm telling you guys that it dries slippery and stays that way without the possibility of grabbing any dust & holding it in a bearing or pivot area, making it an abrasive lube job.

Same with the PTFE stuff.

If it totally dries, then it would be good.
If it has any oils in it--then you'll be defeating the purpose of the spot lubrication process.

As far as filling voids the dri slide stuff does--and lets get back to the bike cables for which it was originally intended.
It does load up the cable strands with the dry moly substance, to keep it sliding free.
Chain roller's and pins certainly will load up with a bunch of snot using heavy chain oil's.
This stuff doesn't, and the chain will stay half assed clean & slippery.
( If your running enduros through 3 ft. deep, half mile long mud pits--the chain is going to get full of crap regardless of what is used to lubricate it.
For normal road riding the dry slide is good stuff on a chain)

Using these examples is as good as I can get in describing why the dri slide lube woud be a better deal for an internal hard to get to wear surface that you would want to lube up once and forget about it.

If you have never heard about it, or used it, then I don't expect anyone to understand.

I've been using it since the 60's and have no complaints.

If you have some other favorite dry lubes-- Dehydrated Whale Sperm oil or other wild idea's--go for it.