TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:33 pm

Hi, who makes the strongest engine studs ? Thanks

Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:10 pm

Why, are you worried they'll break? Head studs are one of the most overhyped parts out there, I've seen people pay hundreads for Raceware stuff put into an engine that don't make more than 200hp. Ridiculous. Get the same cut to size cromo stuff everyone else uses, I buy from CB. Unless of course, you are making more than 250hp... Then, buy Raceware.

Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:16 pm

#1 Raceware
After that, it's all a roll of the dice IMO.
Like Nick said, CB has good studs, so does Scat, and on down
the list you go.
There are some real crap studs on the marker too that claim to
be chromoly, :roll: yea right. They are as soft and cheap as a chinesse rubber bands.

Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:20 pm

using cb chromoly studs.

Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:49 pm

I've been using the Scat chromoly 8 mm studs for several years...quality product; threads are still perfect after multiple teardowns (for camshaft experimentation) :)

Fri Nov 18, 2011 2:51 am

whats wrong with stock studs? how strong are they compared to chromoly?

Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:16 am

pupjoint wrote: whats wrong with stock studs? how strong are they compared to chromoly?

Stock 10mm studs are strong enough to push a VW deep into the 9's in the 1/4 mile. Stock 8mm studs are strong enough for most hi-po N/A engines.

Bugpack also makes a nice set of chromoly studs with fine-pitched threads, made in the USA and tested to be just as strong as Racewares.

Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:50 am

Team Baron made 750hp in their Pro Mod car using STOCK 10mm studs at something like 26 pounds of boost. They didn't change them until they started getting close and eventually passing the 1000hp mark. I think they will hold anything you can throw at them. I'm running 10.5:1 comp with stock 8mm studs in my 2332, never had a problem. Making sure they are well anchored in the case, ie case savers, is where you should place your concern.

I have heard, and maybe one of the other guys with more experience can confirm, that running chromo or aftermarket heads studs on a street motor is a bad idea, as they don't expand at a comprable rate and actually pull the studs out of the case, because they don't expand enough. So you'd actually be causing more problems than you are fixing them.

brad

Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:07 am

For great strength and easy assembly, I like the Scat 8740 turbo studs. They are long, though, so you will have to cut them to length. I've not had one fail, but the std Bugpack chromoly studs have necked on me before.

Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:27 am

Ive used cb,bugpoop,probably empi also.have never used a stock stud,(execpt of 1 set of 10 mm) have never had any problems.but when you are instaling studs and you locktight them you need to have a head&cylinders on them torqued, not just screw them in with locktight.as some stude are extreamly loose fittingand the locktight will compressand cause the nuts to loosen,always let locktight setup in compression or tension,never static if at all possiable.

Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:28 pm

vwairheads wrote: Hi, who makes the strongest engine studs ? Thanks

Since you asked for strongest, according to Scott Fetheroff (aka 'buck-fity'), after testing in a homemade fixture for stretch vs. torque, Raceware, then Bugpack's new chromoly studs with the 12pt aircraft nuts. Scott believes the only reason to step up for most applications would be if oem German studs are not he right length for your build.

I've used Raceware 8mm and recently Bugpack's new studs in 10mm. BP's new (out for a couple years now) 10mm studs on a 2332cc build with 16:1 compression, 295psi cranking compression, that made 253hp @7000rpm. After 1 dyno session, we just pulled the top end off and saw no no head leakage. Your results may vary, depending on quality of machine work at the head seal. But I can vouch for the stud quality and toughness/hardness (I cut them on the lathe, they as though they are made from very good material)

Both cost > $150/set, I think BP's are ~$180/set, last I checked RW are ~$220 or so. Not many here will spring for those, but here it is.

Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:18 pm

I'm looking for 10mm stock studs. for SP heads.
(new 10,, case savers) and Gene Berg warns to run stock studs with 1600.
says not to run chrome-moly studs because expansion rates are wrong.
hard to find stock type studs.

Sat Dec 03, 2011 2:23 pm

What? I find that hard to believe
I have many sets of 10mm factory studs, and so do many people

If there are none for sale in the classifieds I lemme know

Sat Dec 03, 2011 2:58 pm

modok wrote: What? I find that hard to believe
I have many sets of 10mm factory studs, and so do many people

If there are none for sale in the classifieds I lemme know

There are standard 10mm stud kits available for 1600DP that have three sizes of stud lengths, however I have not seen any kits with 2 lengths of 10mm studs that would suit a 8mm to 10mm conversion on a single port head after using case savers. There are standard 8mm stud kits.

From what is written above I take it that there are studs available for performance engines and I must be missing something here if there factory studs available for stock builds.

Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:30 pm

That is true, depending if it is sp or DP, deep stud or not, you need different numbers of each length.

Like I said, if there is a shortage I'll gladly make up a classified add and sell my used ones, but I fear it will be like those "rare" OE singleport heads; much whining about the shortage but my add has been up for two months and no bites :wink:

Most vw shops should have a huge supply, unless they sold them for scrap

Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:47 pm

thanks very much, yes, all case saver are same depth."good question"
stock 65 T1 matching serial block.
the PO had a mix of very rusty stock and , drill studs in the case.
i trashed them they were so bad.
so need 16 stock length (1600cc) studs. 10mm, no cyl 3 deep option.
i found one set on classified,but the seller had to stop selling do to friends that passed away(RIP a great VW racer).

http://ac-vw-remove.com/my-motor-build/html/image_22.html

im usually a pack rat (attic full of vw part) but not studs.
yes, please sell me your set.
10mm all same length. (ERROR, my 373a heads are 2 length )
thanks ! (i know, not many stock 1600 builders, )

Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:56 pm

It is possible to deck a vw case on a large boring mill, same as can bore regular engine blocks, using no special fixture except two cylinders to stand it on.

Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:10 pm

yes, but both machine shops in town , said , NO VW .

but they did heads. and fly wheel and crank for me.

and RAYS, has about 100 cranks on the floor
and 100 heads , waiting for pickup, nothing small. and huge diesels.
say a flat head ford v8 too , cool to see that...
my guess is he could do it but the setups would be hard.
like the side with studs, making it a pain do to.

my guess.

Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:20 pm

schadenfreude wrote: thanks very much, yes, all case saver are same depth."good question"
stock 65 T1 matching serial block.
the PO had a mix of very rusty stock and , drill studs in the case.
i trashed them they were so bad.
so need 16 stock length (1600cc) studs. 10mm, no cyl 3 deep option.
i found one set on classified,but the seller had to stop selling do to friends that passed away(RIP a great VW racer).

http://ac-vw-remove.com/my-motor-build/html/image_22.html

im usually a pack rat (attic full of vw part) but not studs.
yes, please sell me your set.
10mm all same length.
thanks ! (i know, not many stock 1600 builders, )

a little confused... I needed a mix of two lengths. I am on a SP 1500 case (going to 1600) Stock 1600 DP need three sizes. Why only one length?

Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:22 pm

I think he wants 8 long and 8 medium