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Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:25 pm

Does anyone have any good cheap and safe ways to install front wheel bearing races in the rotors? The outer I can probably find a socket with similar diameter but the inner is large.

Thanks

Scott

Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:53 pm

I used a brass drift and a pin punch.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942885000P?prdNo=10&blockNo=10&blockType=G10

Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:54 pm

There are two cutaways in each race's seat in the wheel hub, so you can come thru from the opposite side with a drift. Wipe out the excess grease under the rim of each race and look thru the center hole and you'll see them. They knock out pretty easily.

That's to get them out. Driving in new ones can be done carefully with a brass drift, tapping gently and going back and forth so you don't get the race cocked; if you do you can knock it back out and start again. Or use a race driver, these are tapered discs of various diameters that fit on a driver handle so you can drive them straight in with a hammer or press stand. The brass drift method isn't as hard as it sounds, though.

Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:43 pm

I've seated new races *most of the way* in place, by holding thinner end of old race against new, tapping 'round the edge (and possibly criss cross too) of old with smaller ball peen hammer.

@ The experts: is this poor practice?

Neil.

Thu Jul 14, 2011 12:06 am

This is a great practice as the old race is taking the blows from the brass drift or hammer though the new race should handle it just fine. But this method can help stabilize the new race as you are trying to start it in (hardest part). One huge error you can do with this method is to get the old race started into the hub as well - so it is now caught in the hub and inserted backwards so there is no lip to knock it back out with. Huge bummer. So stop inserting this way when the old race is near to starting into the hub and switch to using a brass drift or rod. A buddy has suggested to me a couple times to take an old race and cut a slot in it so that it can be used to insert the new race all the way to the bottom and then be removed easily. Then you keep the slotted race in the tool box. I don't have an easy way to cut hardened race steel so I've never done this, but others here may.

Tapping a race in is not rocket science and most are too timid with their hammer blows. Be sure the hub where the race is going is clean and free of any grundge that will prevent it from seating all the way to the bottom squarely. Be sure you have it oriented correctly (very difficult to retrieve if inserted backwards). Clean your hammer from when you used it to bash your buddy's sandy, gritty suspension bolt out. Begin tapping the race in, going around in circles with your hits to keep it going squarely. Listen for the tone change when the race hits bottom - goes from a ringing to a deadened clunk. Rap it all the way around again to ensure it's seated all the way around. Done.

I've done these a dozen times by the side of the road on the boat trailer - an object that will make you an expert on wheel bearings fast. After you've done a couple you'll realize it's not high tech. I've even had people call me because they got the race cocked sideways and been surprised that you just hammer it back square and keep on going. Not a delicate procedure and pretty hard to screw up.

DougM

Thu Jul 14, 2011 4:48 am

Putting the races in the freezer for 20min or so makes it easier.

I use a set like this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-BEARING-RACE-SE...veQ5fTools

Thu Jul 14, 2011 9:18 am

I ground down the old races [one of each] and use them for a driver, tapping around until seated. simple. no fancy tooling required for a one-off job.

Thu Jul 14, 2011 3:50 pm

Thanks guys. Wasn't sure being a shade tree type.

IIRC, I did get a race a *little* stuck using this method. Once mind you. ;) Judicious use of my ball peen side to side removed it w/o much to do.

Neil. (who misplaced his Craftsman ball peen hammer and is really missing it and can't seem to find a suitable replacement up here in Canuck land and did I mention that I really miss it? Sears doesn't have stock. Where o where is my favorite hammer? Maybe I left it in CA on my last trip!)

Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:33 pm

So basically I just tap the new bearings into the new rotor and then finish it with that rubber ring?? Once all of those parts are on, pack it with grease?

Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:40 pm

I clean rotor judiciously, put in some hi temp synthetic grease (just a wipe), put in the oven at 200 deg f. for about 1/2 hour, remove using mittens, place on the concrete outside, and the bearing race comes out of the freezer and it almost literally drops into the rotor - just a tap or two with a large piece of wooden dowel. Let the coefficient of thermal expansion work for you!

Best of luck and Merry Christmas

windnsea

Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:45 pm

To install new races, I found making a relief cut all the way through the old race and use that to pound in the new race works awesome. I will just use my cutoff die grinder to cut through the old race.

Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:22 pm

Or you could have a toolmaker at work make you one of these to use with a press!

Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:42 pm

Way to go Buddy.
That'll work.

Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:45 pm

:wink:

Wed Dec 28, 2011 8:06 am

I just got a new rotor from NAPA part #4885981. the web site shows its only for the Vanagon. The other rotor that I had gotten from BusDepot I had no problems tapping in the bearing races. (I ordered two but I didn't realize I had only received one about a month and a half later, so I had to order one from NAPA). With this NAPA one, when I tap in the race it goes down a bit, and then the other side pops up. I just can't get the race down into the rotor. Does this mean that the rotor was machined incorrectly? I am using the same brand bearings that I put into the rotor I had gotten from Bus Depot.

I did notice that this NAPA rotor does not have those cutouts that can be used to remove the races.

Wed Dec 28, 2011 8:37 am

I would take the Napa rotor back. If the slots are missing for driving the race back out, you will never be able to service them if needed at a later date. It also sounds like it is fighting you when the BD one did not. Plus, I'd want matching parts side to side when it comes to brakes.

I was confused by one of your statements. When I replace wheel bearings, I pack both bearings with grease by hand. I put a glob of grease in one palm and holding the bearing with my other hand, press the bearing into the grease and watch for it to come out the opposite side. As I see the grease, I move along the perimeter untill I have visually seen the grease come out the end all the way around. I then will spin the bearing with my fingers to be sure the grease is worked through.

I put a film of grease on both races and a film of grease in the bearing housing. I have seen people pack the hub tight with grease, but never understood why. For the extra grease to work into the bearing, it would need to get hot enough to flow. At that point, you already have a problem.

The grease seal gets a film of grease on the lip only. You can use the old seal as a "tool" to get the new seal seated. They can fight you sometimes. I have had to slightly chamfer the outer edge of some seals to better help them start.

Anyhow, contact BD and get the matching disc. My two cents.

Wed Dec 28, 2011 8:50 am

rsxsr wrote:

I was confused by one of your statements. When I replace wheel bearings, I pack both bearings with grease by hand. I put a glob of grease in one palm and holding the bearing with my other hand, press the bearing into the grease and watch for it to come out the opposite side. As I see the grease, I move along the perimeter untill I have visually seen the grease come out the end all the way around. I then will spin the bearing with my fingers to be sure the grease is worked through.

I hadn't installed the bearing because I couldn't get the race in. Is that what you are talking about?? On the rotor that I did get the races in, I greased up the bearings rather well.

Wed Dec 28, 2011 8:59 am

SteelB12 wrote: rsxsr wrote:

I was confused by one of your statements. When I replace wheel bearings, I pack both bearings with grease by hand. I put a glob of grease in one palm and holding the bearing with my other hand, press the bearing into the grease and watch for it to come out the opposite side. As I see the grease, I move along the perimeter untill I have visually seen the grease come out the end all the way around. I then will spin the bearing with my fingers to be sure the grease is worked through.

I hadn't installed the bearing because I couldn't get the race in. Is that what you are talking about?? On the rotor that I did get the races in, I greased up the bearings rather well.

You said, Quote: So basically I just tap the new bearings into the new rotor and then finish it with that rubber ring?? Once all of those parts are on, pack it with grease?

You should install the races into the hub and apply a film of grease to both and the interior of the hub. Packing the inner bearing by hand as described, set it in the race and install the inner seal. When I am ready to install the rotor, clean the spindle, apply a film of grease to it and then slide the rotor onto the hub. You can feel it seat. You can either do this with the outer bearing in place or set the outer bearing, not the race, after you have the disc installed. The film of grease on the sealing lip keeps the seal lip from getting damaged or torn up. Does that make sense?

Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:33 pm

Gotcha. I didn't realize you went back to an earlier post. Going to see if I can return this NAPA rotor and am waiting on a BD rotor to arrive.