Schnitzel |
Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:00 am |
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seems kind of confusing 74' super been reading this: http://www.vw-resource.com/steering_box_adjustment.html can somebody better expalin this so i can understand it? or even give me like a quick how to.
much thanks, planning on doing this tomorow, based on responces. |
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DaVonZip |
Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:46 am |
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Pulled this off another thread...you cant get more practical than this:
Follow this procedure to properly adjust your steering box:
Steering Box Adjustment
To check the worm and roller steering adjustment -
Raise the front wheels off the ground.
With the front wheels in their straight-ahead position, grip the steering wheel by one of the cross braces with your fingers.
Turn the steering wheel lightly in both directions. In the standard Bug, freeplay must not exceed 15mm (about 9/16-inch) measured at the rim of the steering wheel. In the Super Beetle, freeplay must not exceed 13 - 16mm (1/2 to 5/8-inch).
If worm and roller steering freeplay is excessive, check to see that the looseness is not caused by worn tie rod ends or a worn idler arm bracket bushing.
Check also to see that the steering gearbox and the idler arm are not loose on their mountings and that the gearbox cover bolts are torqued properly (14 to 18 ft-lb).
Finally, make certain that the drop arm is not loose and that there is no play in the steering column's universal joints.
If none of the above faults are found, check and, if necessary, adjust the steering gearabox in the following sequence:
The play between the worm and the roller;
The axial play of the worm spindle;
The axial play of the roller.
~~~
To adjust play between roller and worm -
If the front wheels aren't already off the ground, raise the front of the car so the wheels can be turned freely.
Turn the steering wheel 90-degrees to the left or right of its centered position.
Raise the luggage compartment hood, remove the spare tire, and remove the access hole for the steering gear.
Note: In the Super Beetle there are two access holes -- one in the spare tire wheel and one up on the shoulder on the left side (right as you're looking at the car) just forward of the strut. It is through this access hole that you gain access to the adjuster. (I'm not sure about the location of the access hole in the Standard -- I will check with Rob and revise this procedure.)
Loosen the adjusting screw locknut (17mm in the Super).
With a large screwdriver, turn the adjusting screw out about one full turn.
Turn the adjusting screw slowly clockwise until you feel the roller contact the worm.
While holding the screw in this position, torque the locknut to 18 ft-lb.
Note: This is a bit difficult in the Super, as the nut is recessed below the sheet metal. While holding the screw in place with the large screwdriver, I turn the nut as tightly as I can with a 17mm open-end wrench (spanner) held vertically, then tighten it the rest of the way with a 17mm socket.
Turn the steering wheel first 90-degrees to the left and then 90-degrees to the right. Check the freeplay in both these positions as described above. It must not exceed 15mm (about 9/16-inch) (13-16mm -- 1/2 to 5/8-inch -- in the SB).
Note: If the freeplay is excessive on only one side, repeat the adjustment with the steering wheel turned 90-
degrees to that side.
Remove the filler plug on the steering box and fill the box up with 90 weight hypoid gear oil. If it takes a lot, look for a leak; if there is a leak, your steering box may need overhauling.
Road test the car. If after taking a corner at 10 to 12 mph, the steering does not return to about 45-degrees from the center position, the roller is too tight. The adjustment must then be repeated to prevent damage to the worm and roller.
~~~
Other adjustments -
If you have made the preceeding adjustment correctly, yet freeplay remains excessive, check the axial play of the worm spindle.
To do this, grasp the lower part of the steering column and turn the worm spindle clockwise and counterclockwise. If you can see the worm spindle moving slightly in and out of the steering gearbox, there is excessive play. |
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donbarnes |
Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:35 am |
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That one sentence about "after adjusting if you still have play on one side turning it 90 degrees and readjust from that side" doesn't seem to make much sense, because if you try to readjust the slack with the wheel turned, it will just bind when turned back to the middle. I adjusted the slack out of my with it centered, then it still has a little slack when turned to either side- But now it tracks straight down the road without the tendacy it had before of wandering from side to side... :D |
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emu88 |
Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:43 pm |
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I also have trouble with this.
'Turn the adjusting screw slowly clockwise until you feel the roller contact the worm.'
I cannot feel anything like this. It just feels the same no matter how much clockwise I turn it.
'If you can see the worm spindle moving slightly in and out of the steering gearbox, there is excessive play.'
Right... so how to we solve that?? |
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mnussbau |
Tue Dec 04, 2012 5:23 pm |
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emu88 wrote: I also have trouble with this.
'Turn the adjusting screw slowly clockwise until you feel the roller contact the worm.'
I cannot feel anything like this. It just feels the same no matter how much clockwise I turn it.
'If you can see the worm spindle moving slightly in and out of the steering gearbox, there is excessive play.'
Right... so how to we solve that??
Those are two different adjustments, I just did both on my sedan. The first is the smaller screw w/ locknut. If turning the screw clockwise has no affect it might be stripped. Ugh. Normally 1/2 turn will be more than enough for it to essentially stop, then you back it off slightly.
The other adjustment is the large one below the box. Since I don't have the special tool required, all you need to do is buy a 24mm (outside measurement) nut. First score a line on the outer lock nut against the steering box so you know where to tighten it back to. Loosen that lock nut with an adjustable wrench or pipe wrench. Apply some tape to one side of the 24mm nut so it won't completely seat inside the adjuster. This leaves sufficient metal showing on the nut on which to turn it. Then use a 24mm box or open end wrench on that 24mm nut, to loosen or tighten it. Once adjusted, retighten the lock nut back to the score marks. Check for binding by turning the wheel both directions. |
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emu88 |
Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:29 pm |
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mnussbau wrote: emu88 wrote: I also have trouble with this.
'Turn the adjusting screw slowly clockwise until you feel the roller contact the worm.'
I cannot feel anything like this. It just feels the same no matter how much clockwise I turn it.
'If you can see the worm spindle moving slightly in and out of the steering gearbox, there is excessive play.'
Right... so how to we solve that??
Those are two different adjustments, I just did both on my sedan. The first is the smaller screw w/ locknut. If turning the screw clockwise has no affect it might be stripped. Ugh. Normally 1/2 turn will be more than enough for it to essentially stop, then you back it off slightly.
The other adjustment is the large one below the box. Since I don't have the special tool required, all you need to do is buy a 24mm (outside measurement) nut. First score a line on the outer lock nut against the steering box so you know where to tighten it back to. Loosen that lock nut with an adjustable wrench or pipe wrench. Apply some tape to one side of the 24mm nut so it won't completely seat inside the adjuster. This leaves sufficient metal showing on the nut on which to turn it. Then use a 24mm box or open end wrench on that 24mm nut, to loosen or tighten it. Once adjusted, retighten the lock nut back to the score marks. Check for binding by turning the wheel both directions.
Thanks for that. Well the screw does go in and out, it certainly moves up and down when I turn it so it can't be stripped right?? I will definately try everything I can with it when I get back but if I can't get it to make a difference I may invest in a new box. I have found this one and they tell me the brand is 'WAT'...? Every heard of that?? It's a good price: http://www.vwkaeferersatzteile.de/Steering/Steering-gear/Steering-box::1673.html |
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mnussbau |
Wed Dec 05, 2012 5:48 pm |
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I don't have much experience adjusting steering boxes, but have to think that after several turns in it's got to hit the spindle. Keep turning.
Never heard of that brand of box. |
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mondshine |
Wed Dec 05, 2012 6:22 pm |
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It is my understanding that to adjust the worm spindle (on a Super), the steering box must be removed.
Based on what I've read in the Bentley manual re: overhaul and adjustments to the steering box for Supers, a quality new or re-manufactured unit seems like the way to go.
That price of 375 Euros (from the link to the European supplier) is pretty close to 500 bucks; maybe more than you would pay to a US vendor. Topline sells new ones for $460; ACN for $430.
Good luck, Mondshine |
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emu88 |
Thu Dec 06, 2012 2:50 am |
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mondshine wrote: It is my understanding that to adjust the worm spindle (on a Super), the steering box must be removed.
Based on what I've read in the Bentley manual re: overhaul and adjustments to the steering box for Supers, a quality new or re-manufactured unit seems like the way to go.
That price of 375 Euros (from the link to the European supplier) is pretty close to 500 bucks; maybe more than you would pay to a US vendor. Topline sells new ones for $460; ACN for $430.
Good luck, Mondshine
Right, but ahipping would be too high from the states. Can anyone recommend a europe based (preferably UK) seller of remanufactured or new boxes? Also is remanufactured better because the parts are original vw quality? |
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mondshine |
Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:48 am |
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I think the total cost of having that steering box in your hands in Turkey will be about the same either way. There is also some value in purchasing it from a known, reputable vendor so you only have to do the job once.
I imagine that the only non VW components in a re-manufactured unit would be bearings and seals, but considering the effort needed just to get the replacement box, I'd feel most comfortable with a new one from ACN or Topline.
Good luck, Mondshine |
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mnussbau |
Thu Dec 06, 2012 6:05 pm |
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mondshine wrote: It is my understanding that to adjust the worm spindle (on a Super), the steering box must be removed.
Very possible, I adjusted the box in my standard (non super) sedan without taking it out. |
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68IHscout |
Sat Sep 13, 2014 7:18 pm |
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Does it have to be removed? I know old thread .... |
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68IHscout |
Sun Sep 14, 2014 12:24 pm |
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Anybody? Cricket cricket... |
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