TheSamba.com :: View topic - JB Weld and POR-15?

Wed Nov 24, 2010 8:35 am

Got to grinding down the floors last night in the 69..... got a few pinholes and some bigger(quarter size) forming in the middle seat hold downs! Gunna clean that up real good but my question is how with the POR? Not really wanting it on there before the POR-15... was thinking one layer of POR then JB Weld and then another coat of POR ? Or just JB Weld, clean, and then POR? Not sure as this is my first attempt at body work(and must say its damn fun! Hard but fun!)

Wed Nov 24, 2010 8:57 am

I would take JB Weld out of your bodywork vocabulary. If you have some tiney pinholes, maybe just use some short strand fiberglass filler on it. Try to get it on both sides to keep the miosture from getting up into it.

Wed Nov 24, 2010 9:22 am

Hmmm thats an idea! Never really figured that? Would it be super strong? The JB Weld stuff is like rock hard.... thinking of some old surf boards that the glass would crackle when you popped up on it? But going in a small area I would assume it would be good?

Wed Nov 24, 2010 9:43 am

Well...its not going to make anything stronger...but it will fill your holes, and its waterproof. If your worried about strength, then you should maybe think about replacing your pans!! I would hate to hear that you ended up dragging your ass down the pavement.
That fiberglass filler can be a real bear to sand, so get it as cloes to perfect as you can while its workable. And if you have a DA and some 40 grit paper will help make quick work out of sanding it too. But really most will be hidden under the car and under the seat...so if you dont care too much about what your car looks like under it...than the sanding becomes less important. I have seen it called short strand fiberglass filler...kitty hair...etc.. And it is made to be compatable with most other bodywork materials. JB weld can become brittle and flake off, but the glass filler will stay and you can spread it unlike the JB Weld.
SHould help reinforce the area a little too. But seriously consider replacing the pans. If they have holes, chances are they are getting thin.

Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:01 am

Hahaha ass draggin! Ya I hear ya.... replacing the front clip this weekend so figured while doing that could get started on other body stuff. But Ill ask my buddy and see what he thinks..... I know hell be down to cut it out and replace! Dude just had a 5 page spread in HotRod mag so I know he does it right!
Just "trying" to be well read when he gets here so I dont look like a total fool! Well thats kinda hard since Ive known the guy since we were 11... so he knows what he gettin(a goof!)

Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:03 pm

POR makes a product called marine epoxy. its a two part deal for about 20-30 bucks and works awesome on filling in small areas and stays strong and hard. you knead it and massage it in to the correct shape\area with some water. its smooth and easy to use and most good body suppliers have it or can obtain it for you. use a thin layer of Duraglas over the top and sand it straight. JB Weld is rubbish and doesnt belong on anything of value.

Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:10 pm

Right on! Ill hit up The Paint Store this weekend and see what they have.... should be able to score some good deals I assume with it being Turkey Day and all? Hopefully!!!

Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:17 pm

You could use fiberglass cloth and instead of resin use POR-15 to cover the holes. One coat of POR-15, cloth, then a second coat of POR-15.

Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:26 pm

Really dig that idea!!! You think it would be super strong?

Wed Nov 24, 2010 5:45 pm

dreadzeplin666 wrote: Really dig that idea!!! You think it would be super strong?

They claim:

CAN POR-15 BE USED WITH FIBERGLASS?
Use also with fiberglass cloth to make super-strong surfaces in rusted-out areas.

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf

Wed Nov 24, 2010 8:27 pm

dreadzeplin666 wrote: Really dig that idea!!! You think it would be super strong?
Yes, rock hard, I've done it.

Thu Nov 25, 2010 1:36 am

personally, I would still use resin with the fiberglass, followed by POR- and not walmart fiberglass, use something like Duraglas for your application you probably dont need it but for anyone else reading this with a larger or huge rusted area be warned that POR is strong but still has its weaknesses. on one of my old bugs, I used some on a rusted floorpan WITH fiberglass. it started cracking so bad one day, I took it out. Resto Motive laboratories claims that it wont crack or peel off== guess what, if you got a slammed car and you use it to coat the bottom of your pans, it DOES scrape and chip off. its just a matter of time and its not the cheapest stuff to use anymore. personally, I cant justify the cost anymore for just a small area. they advise for the product to work right, you buy their Marine clean\rust cleaner and neutralizer first. there are other products that work the same for a whole lot less.

Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:59 am

I have to agree....Ive never been a big fan of the stuff. I personally prefer Rust Bullet. POR has nasty chemicals in it, its expensive, and leaves you messy and tattoo'd.

Fri Nov 26, 2010 6:35 am

If its just a few small holes..you can just put tape on the other side and apply the POR, it will seal it up. I wouldn't rely on it to transform a piece of swiss cheese into a solid piece, but a few small holes, its fine.

Sat Nov 27, 2010 6:06 pm

I'm not a fan of fiberglass in high stress / flex areas. It cracks and has the potential of delaminating. Use POR Epoxy Putty as suggested above. It dries hard as a rock and is sandable. For larger holes POR also makes a mesh specifically made for their products...Google their website and check it out. 8)