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Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:41 am

What exactly does 80%(?) Stop bleeder do? And what happens if you Fill up the tank without crack opening it? I had my tank filled up at a gas station without crack opening it cause neither of us was able to open it and found a leak at the regulator when using propex heater later. I wonder if the leak is caused by filling the tank full without opening the bleeder...

Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:46 am

You'll never get the tank to it's full capacity without the bleeder open.
In a matter of fact--it may not take any propane at all.

Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:47 am

The 5.5 & 7.9 gal. tanks are 10 inch. I installed the tank on the drivers side because I have the sliding door step on the other. The ground clearence is about the same for the tank and step. The owner at Afordable German has a 7.9 gal. on his Syncro that I seen at Bugorama or Copperstate. That's where i got the ideal from. Another way to go if U want to carry more LP.

Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:11 am

Do you have any pictures with the larger tanks. Do they attach to the stock mounting points?

Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:28 am

Terry Kay wrote: If the two valve you used are the two pictured in the posts forwarded--they are both the Econo solution.
The original fill valve appears to be the 7647DC. I am getting the 7647SC fill valve. Both accept ACME style filler couplings. The DC, from what I read, is a Dual Coupler and also accepts the (older?) POL style coupler for filling. Filling stations all now have ACME couplings.

The vent valve is the 3165SC with the knurled knob. I can't find any other vent valves that look like this in the REGO line.

http://www.regoproducts.com/PDFs/L-102_2006_Web_Version.pdf

Terry Kay wrote: IThe Acme fill valve you paid for what you got---a non OE Valve.
Why should this be a concern when all the fillers use ACME couplings today? ACME is a coupling standard. The valve is made by REGO, the supposed OE supplier.

Terry Kay wrote: Same with the service valve--non OE, and on the lower side of quaity.
Sherwood and REGO both "Made in the USA." The Sherwood has worked for 5 years no problem. I can not comment on quality, I just know it has worked fine. If it leaks, I get a new seal for pennies or just spend another $14.

Terry Kay wrote: I didn't see one mention of rego anywhere on the pages mentioned in the forwarded posts--they are all brand X.
Read the web page. It says REGO in BIG BLUE letters towards the top of the page.

http://www.pngtechnologies.com/Rego.html

Terry Kay wrote: I'd stay away from the Acme stuff.
OK, but ACME is the fill coupling standard that is used today. REGO makes the referenced two valves above.

Terry Kay wrote: The fill valve is half of the diameter of the OE valve and has a real cheap spring for the sealing set up, and will leak again as your antique & propimatic autostop valve did.
That's NOT what the REGO specs indicate. The original DC valve and the SC are the same in that area.

http://www.regoproducts.com/PDFs/L-102_2006_Web_Version.pdf

FYI: REGO and Sherwood are AMERICAN companies making products in AMERICA. Again read their web pages.

http://www.regoproducts.com/Information/Profile.htm
http://www.sherwoodvalve.com/default.aspx?pageid=44

Sun Mar 14, 2010 6:55 pm

Tank came back early from RW Little http://www.rwlittle.com

See thread starting post for pictures.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:50 pm

I beleive I either need to service my propane Tank or Purchase a new one. The tank installed looks fairly solid with little surface Rust. We bought our 1987 Westy from a owner where the Van lived it's life in the dry Southwest. I have used the propane very little but suspect that the fill valve is faulty because if I atempt to unscrew the plastic cap it starts to leak propane. Thus my question.

Once removed from the Camper and given that the Tank is solid, What should be replaced on a propane Tank? I know that I can obtain a new replacement tank for aprox $300.00 so whats the pros and conns of my choices, and what needs to be serviced or replaced? Also I understand that the current propane fills have been upgraded is there a fill that gets installed in the tank that has an auto shut off much like the 20lb BBQ tanks do?

Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:21 pm

r39o wrote: Tank came back early from RW Little http://www.rwlittle.com

See thread starting post for pictures.
Wow, that coating is real thick. Keep us posted as to durability. Does the finish need to cure or is it good to go?

Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:58 pm

My tank had been sitting on the shelf for over a year now. So I dismantled all the valves and such, and hit it with a wire wheel. I then gave it several coatings of RustMort, and then primed it with zinc chromate. White epoxy enamel is next. In the future I may end up going with a larger tank, but for now this should suffice. Thanks r39o for reminding me to get this job out of the way!

Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:30 pm

BugaRu wrote: Once removed from the Camper and given that the Tank is solid, What should be replaced on a propane Tank? I know that I can obtain a new replacement tank for aprox $300.00 so whats the pros and conns of my choices, and what needs to be serviced or replaced?
Read this thread again. It tells you. The no brainer approach is to replace, as stated above:

$6.50 80% Stop Bleeder 1/4" NPT
$16.99 Quick Fill Valve 3/4" NPT
$10 shipping
$13 Service Valve 312 psi burst 3/4" NPT
$1 tax
$25 Marschall 294 regulator approx
$10 shipping (guess)

BugaRu wrote: Also I understand that the current propane fills have been upgraded is there a fill that gets installed in the tank that has an auto shut off much like the 20lb BBQ tanks do?
Our tanks are not current. Our tanks are also not the same service class as the BBQ tanks. BBQ tanks are thin and need to be safe for any user. Plus there are zillons out there. They try to make them as idiot proof as possible. Nobody refused to fill my tank, I had a 2005 sticker on mine. Mine was due for a new sticker (you don't have to really) but my tank, as seen, needed help so I just did it.

Again, read what I did. I think I did the right thing, perhaps a bit overboard, but I am happy with the result.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:34 pm

Perales wrote: r39o wrote: Tank came back early from RW Little http://www.rwlittle.com

See thread starting post for pictures.
Wow, that coating is real thick. Keep us posted as to durability. Does the finish need to cure or is it good to go?
Good to go. They oven cured it.

They do all sorts of marine work. For the military too. My tank is now protected better than any stock new Manchester tank from the factory.

Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:37 am

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/1654140777.html

Does anyone know if you can tap out the stripped threads for the bleeder valve on a propane tank? Or should that thing go in the recycle bin?

Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:52 am

woggs1 wrote: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/1654140777.html

Does anyone know if you can tap out the stripped threads for the bleeder valve on a propane tank? Or should that thing go in the recycle bin?
Me thinks there is more damaged / missing than is let on in the ad! At $150 asking price, I think the time and parts needed to fix that tank exceeds the cost of a new one. Likely the owner figured that out too. Considering the stated damage, it seems too odd. I would only do it for my own pleasure as there is not savings to be found, I think.

I would question how on earth that damage occurred!

craigslist wrote: I have up for sale a Gowesty replacement propane tank for a VW vanagon westfalia. The threads for the bleeder screw are stripped so this would be a deal for someone with the skills to tap it out and put in the bleeder screw, or possiblely weld a new threaded tube. I paid $359 for this thing, so this is a deal for the right person.

Mon Jun 21, 2010 11:12 am

XXX/Rx/RnR how did you mount the 5.5 gal tank, do you have any photos?

Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:00 pm

Hello!

on my propane tank form Manchester tanks,I had Sherwood valves.

I got the parts from TK,I don't have time to mess around to find it cheaper for the same brand.

REGO:

Filling valve :7647SC
Shut off with safety relief:9106CO
Bleeder:3165C

Google the parts for the specs on PDF file :wink:

Bye!

Wed Feb 22, 2017 9:22 pm

Hi, this thread helped me a lot but it's fairly old and some of the parts info didn't work for me. Here's what I found, now in early 2017.

First, though he answered his own question, the OP asked:

"2. What are the thread sizes so I can put plugs in before media blasting?
Edit: Question 2 answered by inspection - just standard npt pipe threads..see pictures below."

I took the bleeder valve and the fill valve in with me to the plumbing aisle and found they threaded into standard FIP hardware. It's then easy to find the plugs that work. Since my tank had maybe 30% of its paint still intact, I decided to give it a heavy wire-brushing and putty-knife scraping, and a double coating of Rustoleum enamel, primer first, brushed on. Since I wasn't powder coating, all I needed was the PVC versions of the plugs, which saved a buck.

Through a recent post on TheSamba, https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8238961, I found these parts here: http://www.rvplus.com

Manchester Tank Fill Valve Current Style Vapor Pol V20373
PRODUCT CODE: AR-171600 $23.99

Manchester Tank Outage Valve V20058
PRODUCT CODE: AR-171603 $4.99

Marshall Excelsior Fill Valve 1.75acme X.75 Mnpt ME601-6
PRODUCT CODE: CS-57563 $27.99

While I was able to find REGO 7647SC and REGO 3165C, I was not able to find REGO 9106CO withdrawal/relief valve (which sends propane from our tanks to the regulator and on to the appliances). Closest I could find was "REGO STYLE 9106CO" from Nash Fuel, which is a reseller putting parts together for propane auto conversions it appears. Since I couldn't be sure of the manufacturer, I kept looking and found the above post. RVPlus' parts are coming from known American man'fgs with online catalogs, so I went with that.

One last thing: I disconnected the two copper lines from the regulator first, then unscrewed the regulator from its fitting going into the "withdrawal" valve. None of this took much effort. Then the 3/4" MIP fittings got difficult so I took the tank off at this point. Had to get out the pipe wrench and stand on it to get the fill valve off. Then, before doing the same with the withdrawal valve, I tried to get the fitting feeding the regulator off of it, but it was extremely stubborn. I finally realized it's a compression fitting, with a reverse thread! Just to save someone else the embarrassment.

Wed Feb 22, 2017 11:39 pm

Hello!

why not get the REGO 9106CO from TK since he has it in stock?

http://vanagonwestfaliaaccessories.com/

Fri Feb 24, 2017 9:34 pm

ALIKA T3 wrote: Hello!

why not get the REGO 9106CO from TK since he has it in stock?

http://vanagonwestfaliaaccessories.com/

Hi! Thanks for the link. I saw your post above and searched for "TK propane" or "TK vanagon" and couldn't find a reference. It may have been obvious from the context but I didn't get it. Anyway, now the next person will.

(edit) D'oh, it's the guy posting in this thread. Oh well, I just ordered a few other things from him.

Sat Feb 25, 2017 1:50 am

Reck wrote: ALIKA T3 wrote: Hello!

why not get the REGO 9106CO from TK since he has it in stock?

http://vanagonwestfaliaaccessories.com/

Hi! Thanks for the link. I saw your post above and searched for "TK propane" or "TK vanagon" and couldn't find a reference. It may have been obvious from the context but I didn't get it. Anyway, now the next person will.

(edit) D'oh, it's the guy posting in this thread. Oh well, I just ordered a few other things from him.

Sorry, TK stands for Terry Kay officially on the forum, a well known contributor of our community :wink:

Aloha!