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Sun Dec 27, 2009 9:39 am

I just bought a new drain plug from NAPA and it came with a blue washer and looks to be made of teflon (flexible)
anyone ever seen this or using one?
I'm skeptical

Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:16 am

They work great. Almost anything works better than the solid copper washers, and even the copper crush washers don't consistently seal as well as the plastics. I've used the blue plastic ones like you have and no leaks whatsoever, while requiring reduced torque. Nowadays I use only the flat nylon ones for the same reasons. They're also usable two or three times and still seal effectively.

The reduced torque requirement is key if your drain plug is still running in aluminum threads (every case I handle gets a steel Timesert there whether it needs it or not; should have been done by the factory). If your original threads are there then save yourself a potential repair by sticking with plastic sealing washers so you don't need to overtighten the plug when the copper flat washer won't stop leaking.

Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:41 am

Thank you..
I was apprehensive as I torqued it (as always on the alum head) but it's the first time I haven't had a leak after changing the oil.
Also the plug has the 17mm as opposed to the ridiculous, rounded off 10mm.
:D

Sun Dec 27, 2009 5:49 pm

M14 nylon drain plug washers at Autozone, part number 65272.

Sun Dec 27, 2009 9:49 pm

I'm curious why they used Cu when other manfs. have used Al crush washers for decades...??

Mon May 10, 2010 2:55 pm

I've been using the copper washers for years and just changed my oil this weekend. I have been having trouble getting a good seal and I noticed the case has a small indentation where the copper washer seats. The drip is annoying. I had been using solid copper washers and just noticed they also make a hollow copper crush washer. It would probably work better but I think I'll go find some nylon washers and see it that cures my drip.

Can anyone tell me if these will work? I can get 50 of them for what Autozone wants for a 4 of them.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Metric_Drain_Plug_Gasket_14mm_I_D_Nylon_p/a16681.htm

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Drain_Plugs_s/86....ch=%2014mm

Thanks!

Mon May 10, 2010 3:26 pm

I have used the nylon washer from Kragen but every time I change the oil, I found the washer has hardened and the drain plug is loose. I have since changed back to copper washer. Does any one else has this problem or it is just me ?

Mon May 10, 2010 4:11 pm

The teflon washer was good for awhile but now the old leak is back. It's a VW thing I guess. :roll:

Tue May 11, 2010 7:21 am

Only nylon washers here, and usually get two uses out of one. No leaks ever. I'll bet I go longer between changes than any of you guys, too.

Can't see how one could harden, they're already pretty hard when new. Nylon doesn't degrade much with heat, plus it's just not that hot.

Anyway, YMMV, eh?

Tue May 11, 2010 8:45 am

tencentlife wrote: Only nylon washers here, and usually get two uses out of one. No leaks ever. I'll bet I go longer between changes than any of you guys, too.

Can't see how one could harden, they're already pretty hard when new. Nylon doesn't degrade much with heat, plus it's just not that hot.

Anyway, YMMV, eh?

Where do you get your washers? The ones I found in the link above have the correct 14mm inside diameter, but I'm afraid the 24mm outer diameter would be too large. Any input on the outer diameter?

Tue May 11, 2010 9:15 am

You can find these in 5-packs at any of the FLAPS, made by Dorman and 22mm OD. The 24mm OD works, too, but that's as large as will fit. I buy them in bulk at this size.

Tue May 11, 2010 9:32 am

This looks like the right choice then. Thanks!

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-15352-097-010.aspx

Tue May 11, 2010 9:33 am

Roll an o-ring over the threads of the plug & it won't leak anymore.

Thu May 13, 2010 8:32 am

stevey88 wrote: I have used the nylon washer from Kragen but every time I change the oil, I found the washer has hardened and the drain plug is loose. I have since changed back to copper washer. Does any one else has this problem or it is just me ?

Perhaps it didn't harden as much as it cold flowed.

I think a lot of the problems with oil drain plugs seeping oil are caused by the copper washers being reused and then the drain plug is yanked on by a gorilla. I learned long ago to use a NEW copper washer and a GOOD torque wrench set to the required 18 ft-lbs.; and I've done scores of Vanagon oil changes with no leaks or stuck-on-like-a-son-of-a-bitch drain plugs.

If you're at war and really have to reuse a copper washer, at least flatten it with abrasive cloth on a surface plate and then, more importantly, ANNEAL it. A used copper washer becomes work hardened and won't seal worth a shit. To anneal copper, heat it cherry and quench it in water. With the small mass of the washer, you don't need much more than a Bic lighter to get it cooking.

Once again, USE A TORQUE WRENCH! It could save you a royal pain in the ass.

Richie

Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:54 pm

RicoS wrote:
Perhaps it didn't harden as much as it cold flowed.

I was surprised to find out that Nylon washers are used for this application because - yes the plastic will cold flow. If they work and I guess that they do since plenty are using them, fine - but Nylon washers would make me nervous after testing screws in plastics for...well...decades now I guess. :shock:

I remember trying to measure clampload in a plastic assembly and watching the load drop as soon as you stop applying torque - but of course, that is screwing into plastic and not just seating against it.

Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:37 pm

tencentlife wrote: They work great. Almost anything works better than the solid copper washers, and even the copper crush washers don't consistently seal as well as the plastics. I've used the blue plastic ones like you have and no leaks whatsoever, while requiring reduced torque. Nowadays I use only the flat nylon ones for the same reasons. They're also usable two or three times and still seal effectively.

The reduced torque requirement is key if your drain plug is still running in aluminum threads (every case I handle gets a steel Timesert there whether it needs it or not; should have been done by the factory). If your original threads are there then save yourself a potential repair by sticking with plastic sealing washers so you don't need to overtighten the plug when the copper flat washer won't stop leaking.

ok, so what IS the torque you use??

Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:48 pm

<<< I learned long ago to use a NEW copper washer and a GOOD torque wrench set to the required 18 ft-lbs.; and I've done scores of Vanagon oil changes with no leaks or stuck-on-like-a-son-of-a-bitch drain plugs.

If you're at war and really have to reuse a copper washer, at least flatten it with abrasive cloth on a surface plate and then, more importantly, ANNEAL it. A used copper washer becomes work hardened and won't seal worth a shit. To anneal copper, heat it cherry and quench it in water. With the small mass of the washer, you don't need much more than a Bic lighter to get it cooking.>>

My man Richie is right on the money here Mom's & Dads , Boys & Girls.

Nothing seals an oil plug, or cap, as a soft copper washer.
Period.
And if your down & out in the depression mode--you can very well anneal the washer to make it soft & it'll seal the drain plug again, again, & again.

And to elaborate on this process a little more,I never had to buy any head gaskets for any Limey Bikes.
Or copper plug or cap washer's.
The head gaskets were copper--as were the trans & the sump drain plugs--heat them up cherry red, quench them right now in a bucket of ice cold water and they were soft & sealable again.

The nylon washer's are not the sure fire, leak free way to seal a oil drain plug.

Not unless your broke down in BFE, and the nylon washer is all you can get--then yea--it's your ride home--use it as a band-aide.