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Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:57 pm

hi guys i have a 74 beelte, i did a conversition from auto stick to manual...... now i need instructions on how to install the flywheel step by step...... do u have to use the spacers or what items do i need to install the flywheel correctly........

Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:15 pm

remove the seal. install enough shims to set the endplay at .003-.005 inch. remove flywheel again. install flywheel seal. put flywheel back on with the shims you figured it would take to get your endplay. torque flywheel to 253 ft lbs.
all of this info came from the bentley which you should have.

Wed Dec 16, 2009 7:33 am

Quote: install enough shims to set the endplay at .003-.005 inch. remove flywheel again. install flywheel seal. put flywheel back on with the shims you figured it would take to get your endplay

:roll: By enough you mean 3, right? It's best to install the 3 shims on the crank before installing the seal as trying to install them after the seal is in place, the thin shims could cut the inner seal lip.

Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:24 pm

can any body tell me what 3 size of shims i need instead of my trying to figure it out..... thanks..

Tue Apr 20, 2010 4:48 pm

chichilengua wrote: can any body tell me what 3 size of shims i need instead of my trying to figure it out..... thanks..

Every engine is different - you have to figure it out.

Tue Apr 20, 2010 5:34 pm

The common way to pick your shims...
Install your flywheel without any shims. Tighten the gland nut snug. Measure endplay.
What ever number you measured, subtract 0.004" (desired endplay) and figure out which collection of three (3) shims will make up the difference.

You will need one of the tools to measure endplay.

Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:15 pm

yes you have to measure endplay and buy the shims accordingly they have different thicknesses, 38, 38, 34, or so, some old timers say that if the engine is rebuilt and everything is to specs almost for sure you will need 3ea. 36 shims but it is a gamble is better to measure.

also don´t forget the 4 hole thin washer between the crankshaft and flywheel and the oring inside the flywheel groove

Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:33 pm

stevelangford wrote: also don´t forget the 4 hole thin washer between the crankshaft and flywheel and the oring inside the flywheel groove

Isn't it only the early models which use such 4-hole gasket?

And O-ring for the later models?

Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:25 pm

later uses 4 hole gasket and oring, early models use no oring

Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:05 am

The bug-me video points out it is one or the other--earlier engines use a gasket which could be metal or paper, and later use just the o-ring. For some reason I seem to recall '66 may be an exception that may have used both?

From http://www.vw-resource.com/flywheel.html
"Note: If your engine is prior to # F 0 741 385, VIN 116 796 901, there is a gasket between the flywheel and the crankshaft. This should be replaced with a new one. Beginning with the 1300cc models in '66, the gasket was dropped and an O-Ring was inserted in a groove in the flywheel hub."

Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:17 am

The flyweel install is one of those jobs you really cannot do without the correct tools. Get the end play measuring gizmo, it costs about as much as a pizza. You'll be happier if you also get a flywheel lock and a torque tool - your total cost is up to about $100. If you can't afford those parts, you also can't afford to have the engine shake itself apart the first time you drive it... if you're desperate to not spend the money on tools, look for a local who has them, or bring the engine to a mechanic.

Stray

Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:01 pm

X2 the measure tool cost me about 15 and the lock was like 11 and you can save yourself the money on a torque wrench if you rent one from your FLAPS. Its pretty simple to do just takes a little time.

Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:24 pm

do u seat the dial guage on the engine, where the mounting holes are at Correct?????

Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:27 am

doesn't matter where you mount it.. as long as its measuring the distance the flywheel moves. can mount it to the work bench if its stable enough.

You're pulling the pulley "back" as far as you can.. setting your gauge to zero and pushing it forward .. or vice versa I suppose.

if you get the little tool dealy.. its just a rig to use a feeler gauge to measure.
I did it recently 2 ways... with a dial indicator and with a straight edge clamped to the trans studs. just pushed the flywheel all the way forward.. butted the straight edge up against the flywheel and clamped it.. then pushed it back again.
I did it like 40 times (while waiting for proper tools) got consistent results that matched my dial indicator exactly.

Fri Apr 23, 2010 12:19 pm

Hey i just remember the "how to keep your VW alive" book has exact directions on how to do this and even how to make a measuring tool. I believe it does something with a bolt and a couple of nuts.

Sun Apr 25, 2010 8:44 pm

hey guys i got another question, how much play does the pulley has to have back and forth.. when canyou tell that u need to rebuild the engine...... thanks

Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:25 pm

Spec is .003"-.005" with a wear limit of .006".