TheSamba.com :: View topic - 7 Steps to a happier back end

Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:27 am

Started this project last night and no way is it a 2 hr. job for both sides. My spring, drivers side, is no where close to going back in. I am trying to put 3 3/8" spacers in. To get it out, I did the bottle jack thing, but with a jack under the brake so that it wouldn't put too much strain on the CVC. Somehow I got it out but now from the looks of the pic:

I have about 2" to lower the control arm to get the spring in. I do not want to tweak the CVC and have to replace something else. Will disconnecting the CVC get me that 2"? And if so, since I have never dealt with CVC's before, do I just take the bolts out and it comes down/away from the transaxle? Any special tools after I take the bolts out?

Thanks for any advice.

Gary

Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:34 am

Take the shock off. Use a pry bar under the spring to force it in. If that doesn't get you there, you need to undo the axle nut or break the shaft at one of the joints to allow more movement. With the shocks undone, it is a quick job.

Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:40 am

PDXWesty wrote: Take the shock off. Use a pry bar under the spring to force it in. If that doesn't get you there, you need to undo the axle nut or break the shaft at one of the joints to allow more movement. With the shocks undone, it is a quick job.

First thing I did was drop the shock off. I think I want to disconnect the axle at the transaxle. do I just take the bolts out and it comes down/away from the transaxle? Any special tools after I take the bolts out?

Mon Jun 16, 2014 11:52 am

nevadaesh wrote: PDXWesty wrote: Take the shock off. Use a pry bar under the spring to force it in. If that doesn't get you there, you need to undo the axle nut or break the shaft at one of the joints to allow more movement. With the shocks undone, it is a quick job.

First thing I did was drop the shock off. I think I want to disconnect the axle at the transaxle. do I just take the bolts out and it comes down/away from the transaxle? Any special tools after I take the bolts out?
Disconnecting the CV joint at the transaxle side will get you ALL the extension you need to fit even the tallest spring in without use of a spring compressor. (You may still need to pry a little to pop in a tall tall spring)

Make sure you have the proper bit for the CV bolts.. They are not hex.. but a star. Using an allen style bit will likely strip the bolt and leave you as one unhappy camper.
Cover the CV joint in a plastic bag to keep debirs out. I use any plastic bag with a rubber band to hold it. The axle will rest on the swing arm housing.. The CV will hang from that..

Once the spring is in, make sure you have it in place, rotated so that the pig tail sits in the indentation.. in the lower pad aligned in perch... AND in the upper pad.
The springs like to work around a little as you recompress the set up.. So take your time and verify that its all properly seated.

When reconnecting the inside CV joint, you may need to rotate the wheel some to get the bolt holes to line up again.. Be patient and don't force anything. I jack the 1/4 under the swing arm.. leaving the wheel to rotate freely.. insert bolts and snug.. but do not tighten...until they are all in.. Lower the van to the ground.. Then take them to torque spec in a star pattern.

Other than the CV bolt bit.. there are no other special tools needed.

Mon Jun 16, 2014 12:06 pm

An alternate and easier 1/2" spacer can be had by obtaining the upper perch pads for the springs from a junk yard and using them on the bottom of the spring, the spring groove is already cut into them so that it will be locked in on the perch pad.

Sat Jun 06, 2015 12:03 pm

I followed all the great advice (and great pics) and took the sag out of my '83 Vanagon. Needed a single 1/2" spacer on the driver's side rear. No problems using a pry bar to pop the spring on and off......

FWIW: I cut my own spacer. Went to the local Graingers and bought a 12"x12" sheet of HDPE plastic. They have quite a selection of thicknesses for fine tuning ride height. Just used a hole saw and scroll saw to cut em out.

Chuck

Note that I was surprised that raising the left rear a half inch changed all my other measurements too. It lowered the right front by 1/8", and raised the right rear and left front by 1/8". Makes sense after the fact I guess.... Anybody else doing this should make sure they add spacers one corner at at time, and measure in-between.....
:-)

Sat Jun 06, 2015 12:20 pm

interesting thread.

In my '81 Westy, I installed Gowesty progressive "zero lift" rear springs as part of a trailing arm rebuild. Rear now sits noticeably higher. I assume the front springs are worn.

Have folks that've installed these springs kept the rear upper pads in place? Reading this thread, I'm thinking that in lieu of replacing the front springs, I could delete the rear upper pads. Neither end of the GW springs will seat in the OEM pads.

Thanks

Neil.

Sat Jun 06, 2015 3:57 pm

I just installed 35mm lift blocks in the rear (& front 8)) on my van - along with 28" tires, too.

Here's a couple of pics for reference to show the difference in height....

Sun Jun 07, 2015 7:18 am

What rims are those. And what is the offset? Im looking to put the same size tires on my van.

Sun Jun 07, 2015 7:19 am

What rims are those. And what is the offset? Im looking to put the same size tires on my van.

Sun Jun 07, 2015 12:15 pm

alaskadan wrote: What rims are those. And what is the offset? Im looking to put the same size tires on my van.

They are from a '01-'05 Passat. The center hub openings were bored out to fit a Syncro. Tires are the standard 215/75R15 Syncro upgrade size.

These are the stampings on the wheels (if you are looking thru the junkyards)

6Jx15H2
ET 37
02/02
II/27
VW DE
3B0601
027D

In this pic you can see the lift blocks (silver things above the tires) - rear is still lower than the front, but I like the look

Sun Jun 19, 2016 4:54 pm

I got a chance to measure this the other week and realized I am suffering from this common affliction, the Westy Lean. Had I access to my tools, it would be simple to make the spacers I need. I have a couple of circle cutting jigs that would make this an easy task but I can't get to them.

Does anyone have the time and/or interest in making these for a tool-deprived Sambanista? A router with a cutting bit and a couple of pivot points are all that's needed (plus the material, of course).

Sun Jun 19, 2016 5:21 pm

http://www.gowesty.com/product-details.php?v=&id=4346

For $20 per pad, just buy these. They work.

kourt

Sun Dec 04, 2016 3:11 pm

Silly question. If I am making these, what did you use for inner hole diameter?

Does anyone have a fancy cad design of these?
Was thinking about milling a chuck of metal to spec with an indentation for the spring.

Fri Jun 21, 2019 12:13 pm

Hi, Does anyone have plans or specs to make front spring spacers ?
I see a lotta mention of plans but I haven’t found any for the front for my Syncro.

Thank you

Fri Jun 21, 2019 12:44 pm

Hi, Looking for plans or specs to make front spring shim spacers.

I paid an ordered a front spacer and the supplier sent me a note and refund saying sorry out of stock, I am doing a complete front end rebuild and Bilstein HD for 16” Syncro install this week and am scrambling to make some front spring spacers. If anyone has the plans / specs? Or a pdf of them they could send I would really appreciate that! I’ve search the samba and see reference to the plans but don’t see the actual plans.

Thank You!

Fri Jun 21, 2019 8:23 pm

T3Syncrohammer! wrote: Hi, Does anyone have plans or specs to make front spring spacers ?
I see a lotta mention of plans but I haven’t found any for the front for my Syncro.

Thank you

They must exist. Here is a video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6iS8ktEHOg

Fri Jun 21, 2019 10:29 pm

I have also looked and looked for front spring spacers, including finding that linked video, but haven't found any for sale yet either.

Sat Jun 22, 2019 4:25 am

You need FB...but this place seems to be actively making/selling them -

https://www.facebook.com/vwspacers/

Edit - Also here - http://vwspacers.com/

Tue Jun 25, 2019 12:26 pm

Hi, I am getting ready to do a Bilstein B6 HD for 16” shock install on my Syncro Adventurewagen (Weekender set up. No cabinets or roof bed instead a hammock up top!) Aka
Syncrohammer!

I was gonna go GoWesty 2” lift springs but read several people who found that to be not a good pairing? And After reading this thread on to lift or not to lift ?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538751

I have decided to go the spacer route. As many people chimed in and would not go through the effort of lifting it over again!
Currently in the mid to low 17” range front and mid to low 18” in the back.
Want to bring it up to 19.5” stock early Syncro hardtop range or possibly a mild lift beyond that. Considering the limit of potential lift with washer or cutting board spacers (risk of spring shifting position) and the expense of custom made spacers that retain spring position (often times costing the same as buying lift springs!) I did a lot of research and found what appears to be a good reasonably priced solution!

These have an internal neck that retains the springs position and come in 20mm and 30mm shim height.
Roughly 5.2 inch diameter
Roughly 3.9 inch internal neck
See the attached chart below. Wondering what other people think of this idea?
And if there is any reason it is not a good solution?
Or would not work?