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Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:31 am

I know there are a few people on here that have built their own brake pressure bleeder.
I've been searching locally for a plain cap that screws on the reservoir without luck.
What cap will work on the Vanagon?
Everyone I've asked just shrugs when I tell them I want a plain cap without the level sensor. Supposedly one off of various years and models of Mercedes will work, but I can't afford to trial and error via ordering on-line.

Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:40 am

Assuming this is for your 91 Vanagon you need a 45mm reservoir cap.

I bought one of the Motive Power Brake Bleeders for my VW's and have a couple of different caps depending on which VW I'm working on. The Vanagon cap is kit adapter #1109.

You can find the entire kit here: http://store.motiveproducts.com/shared/StoreFront/...=752479195

Or just buy a bleeder cap here: http://store.motiveproducts.com/shared/StoreFront/...=752479195

Although the Bleeder setup with the cap is only $75 bucks and the cap by itself is 35. I highly recommend this product. Good quality and it's worked well for me on everything from my 63 notch to my 86 Syncro.

Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:45 am

Not to knock the Motive bleeders (they are a very nice product), but I'm on a tight budget and can easily build one for $20ish dollars. That leaves me some extra cash for the big brake kit I'm working to install.
Plus I'm one of those people that gets all warm and fuzzy inside when I build stuff like this :D

45mm cap is what I'm looking for. Too bad the local FLAPS looks at me like "huh?" when I ask if they have one.

Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:53 am

Dorman Products has a line of parts usually displayed at your FLAPS on a rack with a big "HELP!" sign atop. The part number of the cap you want is 42035.

Be aware that this cap has a groove inside that needs to be filled in, otherwise you will have brake fluid leaking out all over the top of the master cylinder reservoir as you pressurize and bleed. Ask me how I know!

I used a P-tex candle (as for ski/snowboard base repairs) to fill the groove.

Mon Oct 05, 2009 12:01 pm

Do you remember when VW used to pressurize the windshield washer in the beetle with the spare tire air? I have made bleeders for brakes and suck using this method. All you need is another cap that you can drill a hole and pull a tire valve stem through. Then run a tube to your tire and you are good to go. By running a line to your tire you won't overpressize.

Just my 2 cents.

Mon Oct 05, 2009 12:40 pm

James 93SLC wrote: 45mm cap is what I'm looking for. Too bad the local FLAPS looks at me like "huh?" when I ask if they have one.

Tell me about it. The last guy I tried to explain something to literally said, and I quote "man, I don't know shit. If you don't have a part number all I got is a bunch of boxes back there that mean nothing to me".

:shock: :shock: :shock:

Then there was last week when I walked in to buy myself a standard 30A relay. The guy first said he didn't have any. Then argued with me that he absolutely had to know what make and model car. Eventually I talked him into looking up a part number for a random car to find the bin number. Guess what... He found a whole box of relays. Duh! Too bad he continued to argue that the relay would only work for the heater or whatever the part number said it was for. Hahaha

Mon Oct 05, 2009 1:18 pm

Just a tip, take it or leave it, but when I use either my Motive bleeder or my homemade garden sprayer bleeder, I do not put any brake fluid into the reservoirs of the pressure vessels. I simply use these devices for their pressure and just make sure that I keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up during the bleeding process. My reasoning is that brake fluid is not cheap and I don't want to waste a bunch to simply have the convenience of not having to fill the master cylinder reservoir.

Some argue that you can leave the brake fluid in the pressure reservoir and just use it next time you bleed the brakes. Since brake fluid is Hygroscopic, it begins absorbing moisture the moment that you open the sealed container that it came in. Leaving it in the container is not the same as having it sealed from moisture (there is moisture in the air that is inside the reservoir). This is also the reason that I buy only the small bottles of brake fluid, several if I need to, instead of the larger sized bottles. This minimizes waste.

Once the original seal is broken on the brake fluid container, and provided that the fluid container has had it's lid reinstalled after initial use, the brake fluid is considered to have six month shelf life.

So I guess that what I am saying is that unless you plan on bleeding your brakes again within 6 months, the fluid that is left in the reservoir would end up being wasted.

Mon Oct 05, 2009 2:08 pm

riceye wrote: Dorman Products has a line of parts usually displayed at your FLAPS on a rack with a big "HELP!" sign atop. The part number of the cap you want is 42035.

Ok, I'll come clean a little bit :oops: I work for a FLAPS and we carry that very brand in the "HELP" section. I just didn't know what number I was after. Looks like we don't stock it, but I can have it by Wednesday 8)
THANK YOU!!

riceye wrote: Be aware that this cap has a groove inside that needs to be filled in, otherwise you will have brake fluid leaking out all over the top of the master cylinder reservoir as you pressurize and bleed. Ask me how I know!

I used a P-tex candle (as for ski/snowboard base repairs) to fill the groove.

Good to know.

loogy wrote: Just a tip, take it or leave it, but when I use either my Motive bleeder or my homemade garden sprayer bleeder, I do not put any brake fluid into the reservoirs of the pressure vessels. I simply use these devices for their pressure and just make sure that I keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up during the bleeding process.

Excellent idea Chris! and exactly the way I was going to run with this. I think now I might even skip buying/modifying a weed sprayer and just use my portable air tank. I can knock it down to 15-20 psi and it should have enough volume to easily do a wheel. Keeps my cost even cheaper!

Mon Oct 05, 2009 2:18 pm

Adventurewagen wrote: James 93SLC wrote: 45mm cap is what I'm looking for. Too bad the local FLAPS looks at me like "huh?" when I ask if they have one.

Tell me about it. The last guy I tried to explain something to literally said, and I quote "man, I don't know shit. If you don't have a part number all I got is a bunch of boxes back there that mean nothing to me".

:shock: :shock: :shock:

Since I do work in the biz I can certainly understand your frustration.
Here is my take on it.
1) Parts are not labeled on the boxes by application at all.
2) Knowing stuff like this takes experience.
3) Experience takes time.
4) These guys don't stick around long enough due to:
a) Not enough money to really live off.
b) The company only hires them part-time and they are lucky to get 20 hours a week.

The only reason I have the experience is due to my situation of being a stay at home daytime Dad, taking classes, and have a wife that makes good $$ :D The part-time hours and pay work for me, but I'm not too common.