TheSamba.com :: View topic - Van won't start, slow turn over and battery at 12.3v/13.95v

Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:51 pm

My van won't start, the battery is at 12.3v. After trying to start it (slow chug,chug,chug....) nothing. Battery is at 12.2v. Put a half charged power pack at it turns over and starts (like it should). Alternator charges at 13.95v (reving or not), with headlights and fan to the max i get 13.45v.

The battery is new (2 weeks...changed it because of that since the alt seemed real fine) and i think the starter is less than a year.

I drive for a while (hour, half-hour), stop, come back an hour or two later and it starts fine, but the next day, won't start.

Same setup since the summer, no additions made except i put a small solar charger (1w) for current leaks. Don't know what to check and very bad using a multimeter (only know how to check voltage on a 12v battery).

What voltage should a battery be to start a van? What to check if i have a current leak?

Thanx

Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:30 pm

Battery is shot/defective....or you have a ground/positive wire draining your battery somewhere.

Charge the battery or make sure its good to go...disconnect it overnight. Connect it in the morning and if it fires up you know you have a faulty ground/positive wire somewhere shorting out your system.

If it doesnt fire up your battery is shot...new doesnt always mean good.

Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:36 pm

Have you removed battery cables and cleaned the inside of the terminals and the exterior of the posts. You want to see nice clean metal, not dark grey or black oxides. After cleaning coat everything with vasoline before and after reassemble. Also remove and clean where the ground wire attaches to the battery.

You need to check the battery voltage while cranking to really have an idea of what is happening. Put you meter across the battery and watch the voltage while someone hits the key. You need at least nine volts to get a good crank.

Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:42 pm

I had a fairly new battery in my Westy and it would crank so slow but voltage showed ok. I jumped the gun and put a new starter on it and had the same results. Threw the battery outta my 67 Beetle into it and it cranked over like a new car.

The first battery had a shorted cell or something to that effect.

Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:18 pm

greenwesty...we cant help you if you dont let us know what the results were from the tests.

Did you disconnect the battery overnight and crank it again? That will tell you everything about the battery...work with us here.

Wed Feb 11, 2009 12:54 pm

Krimpoo, ididn't disconnect overnight. temp outside got a bit warmer, wanted to see if the real cold was acting up on this issue:

12.5v , turn the key 12.3v. I try to start but too slow turn over, i get 11.9v. so doesn't start. Put booster pack and vrrroum it start right away.

i disconnect then negative side of battery and check voltage for leaks: positive + ground on meter (same settings), and i get 0.6v, go to the fuse box, and take out fuses. Fuse #3 (int.lights/radio/alarm) out i then get 0.21v. I check out some more but now it's either at 0.00 or 0.01v, all the fuses in...???

I started it at least three times and no problems. Check battery voltage after 5 minutes running, i got 12.9V and each second or so voltage dropped .01v. Seemed to stabilize at 12.6v.

i'm clueless... :roll:

Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:39 pm

You need to check your battery voltage while the starter is engaged. This will tell you what you battery is doing under load. Have a helper to turn the ignition switch for you while you read the meter. You need to see a minimum of 9 Volt, preferably more.

You can also check the voltage at every connection while it is cranking, this will tell you exactly were your power is being lost. Battery post to cable, one end of a cable to the other, cable to solenoid post, etc all though the system, including doing all your grounds.

Your local discount auto may have an induction ammeter that will show your actual current draw as well.

Wed Feb 11, 2009 3:24 pm

I've just had my battery checked and it's good (and new). Battery posts, connections and ground is ultra clean.

When the starter is engaged, i get 11v to 9v, if it's not starting its goes down to 7v. when not starting, i still get all my electricals functionning (lights are bright). It seems it whats to start only when the battery is very full or after an hour with a power pack (jump).

re-checked for leaks, get none from ground (0.00-0.01v under seat). checked charging from positive post to metal around van, it's charging 13.8v, same goes for leaks. Didn't get under to check with ground on tranny...etc getting dark and i'm doing this in slushy street.

Wed Feb 11, 2009 3:46 pm

Here's a really useful page on batteries. Scroll down and there is a voltage chart with the % charge. Basically at 12.2 volts, you're only charged at 60% of the battery. 12.7 volts would be fully charged at rest.

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#Amp-Hour%20Capacity

I had a slow starting problem and it was my starter. Changed it out and it spun fast with the new starter. Bad wires or connections could contribute to the problem too. Bad starters can create a larger than normal current draw.

Wed Feb 11, 2009 6:01 pm

It starts fast when freshly stopped or with the help of a pack. If not,just turn soooo slow after 1/2 sec.

Wed Feb 11, 2009 8:21 pm

where were you getting .6 volts what were you measuring? if you had .6v on the ground with the battery ground disconnected you have problem with a wire somewhere going to ground or maybe a wire is chafed or a bad switch

if you measure the current draw on the battery when the van ignition is off, you could see if you are draining the battery. best way is to use a clamp on meter.

next you can check the individual cells in your battery just use meter leads and put them in each adjacent cell the volt should be same on cells.

you may have a bad connection on any connector or switch in the starter circuit. you will need check connections at the starter or you could have a bad solenoid or one that is binding requiring more current to close contacts.
next if your solenoid is working correctly then check your starter current draw when cranking, if the battery volts are within range and the current is high your starter may be bad. bently has a good trouble procedure for checking starter (97.9 for starter CABLE routing) 27.12 for starter
let us know what you find. if you dont have a bently i could post pages

Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:20 am

GOT IT!!!

It was a bad connection at the power window switch, it was giving current as if finger was always on switch.

Thanks everyone