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Mon Oct 20, 2008 2:45 pm

I was changing my front shocks on my 67 bus when I broke the lower shock stud clean off. And I not sure what to do now!? Do I have to replace the whole torsion arm, or Is there an easy fix to getting new stud on?
And if I have to change the torsion arm, do I have to remove the streering knuckle, brakes ect ect? (which I just put on last year!) Thanks for anyones help!

Mon Oct 20, 2008 2:51 pm

I did the same thing about 2 years ago.
I checked around and machine shops could remove the broken piece and install a new one, but by the time I got the arm off, I'd found a replacement. Good luck.

ps Seems that I recall a manual with a picture of the process to fix it. Anyone know where to find that?

Mon Oct 20, 2008 3:00 pm

you can have a shop ream out the old one and press in a new one.

if you are lucky you can do it yourself without taking the torison arm off.

Mon Oct 20, 2008 3:02 pm

Drill & Tap! 8)

Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:31 pm

Swapping out the arm isn't exactly difficult. Much easier IMO than tryin to remove and replace the lower shock stud.

NAES

Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:21 pm

You're going to encounter more broken studs in the future. Better to learn how to drill and tap out when the opportunity first presents itself.

Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:40 pm

Ok, I tried to tap out the stud but the only thing I'v accomplished is now I have a broken Tap stuck in the hole that I drilled! So it looks like Im just going to have to change the torsion arm at this point.
But I would like to know, Do I have to remove the steering knuckle and brakes get this arm off?

Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:57 pm

do they not have a pin holding the stud in?
, like a cotter pin?

Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:08 pm

This was the only thing I could find about the lower trailing arm and it's actually about narrowing it, but it might help in some way :roll: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=256611&highlight=narrow+trailing+arm

Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:55 pm

Well now I feel foolish! After waisting a day trying to tap it out, like I was told by someone on here, I read what pantswagen said and then searched some more in the forums about this problem im having and found out that the shock mount stud is a machined stud held in with a press fit and held in with a tiny 4 mm dowel pin. And that the inner part is not threaded. And The Bentley replacement procedure say that the basic process is to drill out the broken stud, enlarge the hole, ream the hole to the correct oversize, press in a new stud and pin it.
But now I just have to figure out how to get that pin to come out? and I tried using a small punch tonight along with some dw40 but its in there solid!
Any idea's?

Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:11 pm

Do you also feel foolish for the DP? :lol:

NE way, I've popped that pin loose a few times and it's not hard. Gettin the stud out is. Might have to take a drill to the pin and just ream it out and replace with a slightly larger size.

Or, just do as I advised and replace the arm.

In 15 years of playing with VW's I've only busted one stud myself.

NAES

Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:38 pm

Yeah, Iv been thinking about just changing the arm but Im not sure where to get one? And so far iv checked Wolfsburg West cip1 and wolfgang but no luck finding one. any idea's?

Thu Oct 23, 2008 11:49 am

if you notice the pin has a rounded head, now this is 4mm
-they would have used a rivet punch to whack the pin in, thus expanding the pin, hense you will need to drill it over size, -I doubt you will get any rod 4.5mm, so 5mm it is, then you take you micrometer to the bit of the shock stud that is left, and go to the hardware store and buy a bolt the same size, cut the head off -to length and refit, running the drill bit through once the new stud is 'home' , then razz the new cotter pin - in
the 5mm over sized one

DON'T drill for an oversize shock boss stud, as the shocker won't then fit!!!!!!!!!!1
-plus why on earth would you?,

-or you try and find a replacement arm
due care must be taken here as
-pre 1963.6 is small link pins and bakerlight bushings-the bearing surface is the same across the bit that goes in the beam
64 only is big link pins but bakerlite bushings
65 on is the 64 only arm, with a collar shrunk on it, to take the needle roller bearings, split scrren beams use 48mm needle roller bearings
-68 on trailing arms don't have the shrunk on collar, they are machined with the bulbous ends, but take note the bearings are 50mm
oh and ps, therefore, you cannot use bay window balljoint grease seals on a splitty trailing arm, as they are 2mm too big

Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:28 pm

pantswagen wrote: if you notice the pin has a rounded head, now this is 4mm
-they would have used a rivet punch to whack the pin in, thus expanding the pin, hense you will need to drill it over size, -I doubt you will get any rod 4.5mm, so 5mm it is, then you take you micrometer to the bit of the shock stud that is left, and go to the hardware store and buy a bolt the same size, cut the head off -to length and refit, running the drill bit through once the new stud is 'home' , then razz the new cotter pin - in
the 5mm over sized one

DON'T drill for an oversize shock boss stud, as the shocker won't then fit!!!!!!!!!!1
-plus why on earth would you?,

-or you try and find a replacement arm
due care must be taken here as
-pre 1963.6 is small link pins and bakerlight bushings-the bearing surface is the same across the bit that goes in the beam
64 only is big link pins but bakerlite bushings
65 on is the 64 only arm, with a collar shrunk on it, to take the needle roller bearings, split scrren beams use 48mm needle roller bearings
-68 on trailing arms don't have the shrunk on collar, they are machined with the bulbous ends, but take note the bearings are 50mm
oh and ps, therefore, you cannot use bay window balljoint grease seals on a splitty trailing arm, as they are 2mm too big

Is there anything you don't know? :)

Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:14 pm

Here's the issue I came across when I bought a used one.

The old one is the original 1961 model, not sure about the new one in the photo. I found another that I could use.

Fri Oct 24, 2008 5:21 pm

the new one looks like it has the collar for the needle roller bearing
does it go in the beam?

-ps, you counted the shims each side?