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Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:21 am

Terry Kay wrote:
The Flood Co. who manufactures it sez it is, and so do I.

Penetrol was originally marketed as an additive to paints to help with flow and surface penetrating characteristics.

Using Penetrol on chalky f/g "works" because it is petroleum distillates. It behaves like a mild solvent.
It "dissolves" the chalking.. (actually it is just wetting the chalking)
It also soaks into the pores of the f/g and gives a darker color.

It does not, however, have the characterisitcs a wax-like material. There is no UV protection to Penetrol. Penetrol can hold/suspend dirt much as it "wets" the chalking.
It can darken one area more than another. Penetrol can also be difficult to remove, if the surfaces is to be painted at a later time. Some modern marine paints do not like the bonding characteristics of Penetrol or the material that may have been "suspended" in the Penetrol.

It works for some tastes.. but for others, it might not be satisfactory.

Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:28 am

I had some streaking after the first coat on the top of a red '90 Westy. It took three coats for the initial streaks to go away.... YMMV.

Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:33 am

As with anything application process is key.
Direct sunlight, humidity, ambient temps, what you used to apply it etc.

I've used it on many boat hulls, decks, RV's, and too many to count Westy pop tops, with zero dissapointments.

My own chalked out Grey & Maroon pop top's for example.

However, the white pop top on my 74 was too fiber open to even consider using the penetrol.
I didn't even consider using it, I used Petit urethene hull & deck urethane paint, which gave the best results.

There is a judgmental call that is required here prior to using any refinishing/ sealing product.

If the surface is so UV beat up that it's going to suck up the Penetrol as fast as you lay it on--you should have refinished it.

And if that is the case, buffing, rubbing out, or waxing isn't going to get the job done either.
In a matter of fact all's your going to be doing is opening up the surface more for faster oxidation.

Read the back of the can of the Penetrol--or go to Flood's web page.
It sure sez right up front that it is a fiberglass shine restorer.

I don't know what the RV coach nay sayer's were doing in the application process to have it screw up, and I'm not sure how you went about it either to get the grey streaks in the top.

I'd wash it down, get it into the garage, and wipe on another coat or two, out of the sun, in low humidity, and I'll bet it straightens' itself out.
I think you expected a "Mircale" with one fast coat.
It didn't happen.

Use an old T-shirt to apply--nothing with hair's sticking outa it--like a turkish towl--no good.
The top will need a hair cut when your all done.

I introduced this stuff a very long time ago to VW / Vanagonland, and have have too many folks elated with he results to believe that on one Van it didn't work.

It's an oil based product, and is compatiable with any oil based refinishing product for later, down the road repainting if necessary.

How can I say this?

The same white & bile green hulled 22 footer, after having it for two years--I repainted the entire boat with Imron.
No problems.

Like I said--if it the Penetrol didn't take in one coat, the top was too far gone in the first place and really needed to re-painted.

Good Luck,

Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:42 am

davevickery wrote: I put some penetrol on my wolfram grey top with mixed results. It looks better than the chalky initial look, but it left streaks you can see in the sunlight. I have been trying to figure out how to get rid of the streaks that followed the cloth strokes. I tried redoing it and I'm not sure it is any better.

Exact same thing for me on my wolfram grey top. I read every post, and thought I had my technique down, but streaks are prevalent (especially in direct sunlight). I have a feeling that they will go away as I apply another coat or two, but I won't have a chance to do that until spring hits.

TK's idea of the old t-shirt application method works the best IMO.

Even with the streaking I like the fact that it is easy to apply and cheap. Recommendo.

Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:48 am

Any photos, experience, using penetrol on white tops?

Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:47 am

indytriple wrote: davevickery wrote: I put some penetrol on my wolfram grey top with mixed results. It looks better than the chalky initial look, but it left streaks you can see in the sunlight. I have been trying to figure out how to get rid of the streaks that followed the cloth strokes. I tried redoing it and I'm not sure it is any better.

Exact same thing for me on my wolfram grey top. I read every post, and thought I had my technique down, but streaks are prevalent (especially in direct sunlight). I have a feeling that they will go away as I apply another coat or two, but I won't have a chance to do that until spring hits.

TK's idea of the old t-shirt application method works the best IMO.

Even with the streaking I like the fact that it is easy to apply and cheap. Recommendo.

TK hit it out of the park with this recommendation. I was getting ready to 'polish' out the pop top when I read the posts about penetrol. Damn, I already had some from a painting job I'd done. I went with the t-shirt as well and did get a little streaking, but nothing too bad. IIRC, Dylan, Insyncro, mentioned that he sprays it on for an even application. Either way, the results are fantastic!
Thanks again, Terry.

Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:54 am

86 Savanna Beige Metallic with off-white, beige ("Cafe au lait", thank you) top.

Beautiful results. Washed the top well, let it dry. Used a t-shirt.

Had patches, not so much streaks for about a week, maybe less. After that everything just evened out. I attributed the patches to areas of heavier application. I used a circular motion to apply. I did two applications, about twenty minutes apart.

Been about a year, still looks ok, and smooth, but I'll redo it soon because after treatment it looks almost new.

Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:34 pm

DeadSetMonkey wrote: Any photos, experience, using penetrol on white tops?

It works fine for white tops. Probably not as noticeable a difference as with a dark color, but it works just as well.

Sun Mar 03, 2013 11:58 pm

OP, Thank you for yet another affordable suggestion!

climberjohn wrote: Volks,

Follow the directions about buffing with a separate dry cloth about 5 minutes after initial application! If you do not do this, you'll have a sticky mess on top of your van that will take days to dry, and will attract every stray bug, pollen particle, and dust wad on your block.

I used med-coarse steel wool to give the van top a quick buff before I used the Penetrol.

Keep Penetrol away from the seals on your van. The solvents cannot be good for rubber. Tape the seals carefully and watch for drips.

I'm going to try this next sunny weekend day! Got a couple of dumb questions. When you say seals, you mean all the black stuff, right? The edges, bottom of top and skylight.

And, how did you reach the top, can I climb onto the top? I'm short/small, even standing on a ladder right beside it, don't think I'll be able to reach even half way across. Though, who's going to see? :wink: Funny how it'll still bug me. :roll:

I also bought a bottle of Nu-coat, hope that works well, sounds like a lot of work. All my other cars had a layer of clear coat on them, apparently who ever bought this new missed the memo on the work that the $100 saves you over the years! LOL

tam

Mon Mar 04, 2013 3:25 am

Being a member of the Lolly Pop Guild--do this;

Take an old Swifter, and tie a couple of layer's of old T-Shirts on the head of it.

Pour some of the Penetrol on the top and move the Swifter across the top, as you'd be waving your hand.
Like you'd be applicating wax on the floor of your humble abode.

It'll get the job done where you can't reach in short order---

Another Mysterious problem solved.

Mon Mar 04, 2013 5:46 am

Climb on top of the pop top roof, do the center area first, leave the edges last and use a ladder to finish the edges.

Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:45 am

madspaniard wrote: Climb on top of the pop top roof, do the center area first, leave the edges last and use a ladder to finish the edges.

I'm in the TK camp on this one. Yes, the pop top may hold your weight, but if it doesn't you'll be very unhappy when it cracks, especially in the front near the skylight area....

Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:52 am

Good point, I'm sure don't want to be responsible for somebody cracking the poptop. I have climbed up there several times and it sounds like I'm heavier than the OP but each van is different. I never stood up on the roof, more like laying flat.

Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:24 am

Other camp heard from. I used Penetrol on my f/g sailboat some years back, the finish was just dull and this was suggested. Looked great for about a month. Then it started looking streaky. Granted, this is in a slat water environment.

I would be a little hesitant on using on the top based on my experience, the results posted here would make me reconsider.

Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:40 am

Someone should try 3M fiberglass restorer and compare it to Penetrol. I would but I already put Penetrol on my top, plus I haven't been able to find it in a store yet. The boat community seems to recommend the 3M product.

On a side note, I used the pentrol on the rubber interior around the seats and battery boxes and it looks nice. Kind of an armor all look without the slippery effect. It takes a while to dry so it isn't sticky and for the smell to go away. Used it on the bumper end caps too.

Mon Mar 04, 2013 10:46 am

davevickery wrote: Someone should try 3M fiberglass restorer and compare it to Penetrol. I would but I already put Penetrol on my top, plus I haven't been able to find it in a store yet. The boat community seems to recommend the 3M product.

I use 3M and similar "restore" type waxes / cleaners.. and prefer them.
I am not a chemist, however a little understanding of basic chemistry helps explain why Penetriol does not last, where some better waxes will, and why better waxes help protect..

However, the waxes do not give the "wet" look that Penetrol does upon initial application.
Waxes are a lot of work (comparatively) that give "ho-hum" immediate visual results. That immediate appearannce does not "wow"..
but the proper waxes last a LOT longer as a protection barrier.

Thats not just me saying so.. But Practical Sailor and several other respected sources put thier support behind the materials designed for the purpose. And not the relabeled paint-flow additive.

Just becauase it says something on a can, doesn't mean anything more than marketing.
The Penetrol thing is cult-like.. A silver duct tape of finish treatments.
To each his own. But penetrol has lost much of its following in the marine end of things (at least here on the west coast) because it really is a only relatively short lived result.

Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:37 am

News update;

If yor fiberglass pop top is that chaulked out and dull, you have two options;

Repaint it, or get some semi permanent bling back in it, by re-oilng it.

And this is why the top looks flat & dull, because the UV rays have baked out all of the oils in the gelcoat.
It's just a plain fact of life.

Now, & I don't really care where the vehicle is located.
It could very well be in the North or South Pole, Baswanna,Timbucktu, or BFE for that matter.

Fiberglass is fiberglass and it'll dry out from the sun, and there is absolutley no way in Haties that your going rub-a dub-dub that chaulked top back to a high luster finish--And Keep It That Way Without Repainting It.

You'll be buffing your gonads off, and then laying a coat "New Finish" (good for a year and 200 car washes) every day.

This is all within the law's of physic's,chemical reality, and basicly good common sense, regardless what the row boating community on the left coast does.

The Penetrol is a re-oiler, re-fortifier if you will, and the fasted way that I know to get the fiberglass top to look as good as new and keep it that way without repaintng it, or scubbing your ass off with rubbing coumpound--or any faux fiberglass restoration product by 3-M--which I have used and came up empty handed, and real tired.
Componded by the issue of the top not all all being a smooth finish to be rubbing out.
Wanna elabotate on how your going to Rrub out, polish, & wax a textured finish?
I'd like to see this done--a u-tube episode would be good for laughs anyway.

The Penetrol Has Been
Tested, Used, and Highly Approved, Here In The Industrial Capitol OF The World.
Smack Dab in the middle of the good ole USA, and works very well here.

I did my 87 5 years ago , and it still looks as good as the day I did it. --and maroon to boot.
Take that to the bank.

The rest of you in BFE, Somalia, Bombay, or wherever-- can do it your way.

Lay some White Whale Sperm Oil on it--see if that works out for you OK, if not, repaint it with Imron,or Petit Deck & Hull paint, or do a simple wipe with the Penetrol.

There are all of your realistic options.

Tue Mar 05, 2013 11:11 am

Terry Kay wrote: Being a member of the Lolly Pop Guild--do this;

Take an old Swifter, and tie a couple of layer's of old T-Shirts on the head of it.

Pour some of the Penetrol on the top and move the Swifter across the top, as you'd be waving your hand.

Thank you for the great suggestion and laugh! :D

dobryan wrote: madspaniard wrote: Climb on top of the pop top roof, do the center area first, leave the edges last and use a ladder to finish the edges.

I'm in the TK camp on this one. Yes, the pop top may hold your weight, but if it doesn't you'll be very unhappy when it cracks, especially in the front near the skylight area....
Please feel free to *always* state the obvious with me. I can be a bit daft sometimes and would rather the obvious stated in case I'm dumb, than not and figure it out the hard way. The hard way is best when it's really obvious w/ hindsight!

madspaniard wrote: Good point, I'm sure don't want to be responsible for somebody cracking the poptop. I have climbed up there several times and it sounds like I'm heavier than the OP but each van is different. I never stood up on the roof, more like laying flat.
Back to thanks for stating the obvious, I wasn't planning on standing on it, would be afraid of falling off, BUT never know when one of my kids might get the bright idea to do *that*. Now I can point out the obvious fact that it's like ice, fine if you lay on it, but not such a good idea to put all that pressure in one spot! Before one of them gets that fun idea!

Terry Kay wrote: News update;

If yor fiberglass pop top is that chaulked out and dull, you have two options;
Repaint it, or get some temporary bling back in it, by re-oilng it.
And this is why the top looks flat & dull, because the UV rays have baked out all of the oils in the gelcoat.

Now, I don't really care where the vehicle is located.

You'll be buffing your gonads off, and then laying a coat "New Finish" ((good for a year and 200 car washes) every day.

Lay some White Whale Sperm Oil on it--see if that works out for you OK, if not repaint it with Imron,or Petit Deck & Hull paint.

Thank you, thank you and thank you for having tried it. I live near the ocean and otherwise may have tried the other b/c of the salt in the air. Mine is really dull and faded, probably does need to be painted, but so does the entire van. Will get it done all at once, probably in a few years. I will do it the year I don't have to spend $2,000+ on the mechanics and other otherwise fun stuff I want!

tam

Tue Mar 05, 2013 11:37 am

For the out of pocket expense of 9 bucks, the Penetrol is the easiest way to poptop color rennovation, some personal satisfaction of getting it looking real nice--and it'll stay that way for some time.

If it startts to fade a little down the road--give it another wipe down.

Not complicated, really simple application & results.

Sounds to me like j dirge is preparing class action litigation againt the Flood Co. or something else goofy like that, for the print being too small--he obviously can't see the print.

Right on the back of the can
in Plain English is sez;
"Restores Faded Fiberglass"

I wonder what the means in his native tongue?

Anyway--discounting his allegid non-use, and knowing all, the stuff works woderful, and is the fastest way to restoring & preserving the Fiberglass on your Pop Top.

Tue Mar 05, 2013 11:45 am

Tam,

I really like the Penetrol product. If you decide to use it be sure to give your top a gentle scrubbing with a light abrasive (like the back of a kitchen sponge) to remove as much easy to remove oxidation as you can. You don't want to scratch the surface, just get off the easy to remove oxidation....