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Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:20 pm

FRICKIN AMAZING PRODUCT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
god i love this forum, read about someone using penetrol on their fiberglass top to enhance the paint color, and does it ever. the best $12 i spent this month for sure. i applied right over top the stickers too, hope that does not ruin them. highly recommended. any paint shop will have it, first place i called was general paint here in calgary and they had 8 cans in stock $12 each.CHEAP. THOUGHT I WOULD PASS THIS ON TO ALL THE NEWBIES LIKE ME.

Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:49 pm

I've used it this spring. It works great. Didn't hold up too well on the grayish front grills. There is simply no reason to drive around with the discolored faded look again.. Will use the forever black on the grills next..

Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:35 pm

wow, and I've been using rubbing compound and wax for nothing near that... is that the same as that color back product?

Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:39 pm

Just use the Krylon FUSION plastic paint, black satin finish. Makes your mirrors, grill, corner bumper covers, etc., look like new. The Penetrol renews fiberglass, not plain plastic.

- Chester

Thu Aug 21, 2008 4:11 am

I got amazing results as well thanks to this forum.
picked up a can and went to work.

Even freinds that could care less about somthing like this took notice....

I had the exact same results as the other pics of the maroon van

Thu Aug 21, 2008 6:48 am

me too. I used penetrol on my top and it was like new in about 15min. YOu just have to be careful with the rubber seal around your top. It will bleed if it comes into contact with the penetrol. Mask it off then go to town!

Thu Aug 21, 2008 6:50 am

I just Googled it to see where I might find it, and this manufacturer's website identifies it as a paint conditioner to be added to paint. I wonder how long-lasting its effects will be when it is just used like a wax? Let us know after it has been through some sun and rain.

Ed in CT

Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:11 am

erdonline wrote: I just Googled it to see where I might find it, and this manufacturer's website identifies it as a paint conditioner to be added to paint. I wonder how long-lasting its effects will be when it is just used like a wax? Let us know after it has been through some sun and rain.

Ed in CT

Ed Dude,

On the Penetrol container itself it lists, " RENEWS FIBERGLASS " as well as being a paint conditioner.

- Chester

Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:15 am

ChesterKV wrote: erdonline wrote: I just Googled it to see where I might find it, and this manufacturer's website identifies it as a paint conditioner to be added to paint. I wonder how long-lasting its effects will be when it is just used like a wax? Let us know after it has been through some sun and rain.

Ed in CT

Ed Dude,

On the Penetrol container itself it lists, " RENEWS FIBERGLASS " as well as being a paint conditioner.

- Chester
I always wondered what exactly the technical definition of "renews" was.
I have used Penetrol on chalky degraded "fiberglass".. or more accurately, the "gelcoat" finish on sailboats (marine environment). Penetrol, does indeed, provide a "new" look to UV degraded polyester resin finishes. It is a similar result to "oiling" teak.. or using Thompsons Water Sealer on a freshly powerwashed redwood deck.
It fillsls up the porous surface and provides a "sheen" or a newer looking "luster" to the surface.
But it will yellow somewhat in the UV over a years time.

I figured I'd try it on my painted Westy top.. Initially the appearance was quite decent, as it results in a semi "wet look". But the Penetrol yellows and fades pretty quickly... after a year, and a washing or two, the top looks like it did before treatment.

The yellowing is more noticeable on my 89 as the top was painted to match the van's blue paint..

My preferred treatment tody is to just keep the top clean, and park inside a garage whenever I can.

Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:21 am

It turned my oxidized white top back into the Blue it was.
Still good through the winter. I put on several coats.
Excellent product!!

Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:32 am

I concur, Thanks to Terry on the samba I used Penetrol and was amazed. When I saw the pic of the red top I thought it was mine. Worked Great.

Wed Oct 01, 2008 9:44 am

Penetrol is used mostly as a paint conditioner, in my experience. It's available in every big paint store I've ever been in in CA and OR.

Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:24 pm

I been putting off doing this to to my top.

What did you use to clean your top before application?

I have some sap I will scrape off but I also have areas that just look grimy with leaf mold and crap.

I was thinking about using simple green or does someone know of a stronger cleaner that is safe to use?

Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:28 pm

I've been happy with the 303 series of products. Took a little elbow grease but made my top look great. They also have a UV protectant built in, sunscreen for the fiberglass.

Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:29 pm

Funny, I hadn’t heard of Penetrol in years. Didn't know it still exists :D

All the old boat guys know the stuff. It prolongs the 'tongue' of old oil-based paints on the end of a brush when applied in sunlight. In other words, material slips off the edge of the brush rather than wanting to stick to the brush while keeping the brush-edge wet. This helps smooth the end of the brush stroke. The stuff was the 'secret weapon' for a nice finish when it painting had to be done on a warm & sunny day. But like buggy whips . . . so many new coatings are not compatible.

I'm surprised more folks don't paint their Westy tops with a brush.
No fooling. I painted the top of a HumVee that was too big to practically spray at home. I used DuPont 2.4HG polyurethane with brushing catalyst and a retarder for the weather the day I did the deed. I gave it two coats over a catalyzed poly primer - all brushed, with only light wet sanding of the primer. It looked the same as if sprayed and needs no waxing or maintenance beyond washing. Gloss retention over 10 years in the sun is incredible. The big issue with these kinds of coatings is accurate measurement, mixing and having the right accelerator or retarder to tailor the paint's handling properties to the environment. But cool, dry, still, cloudy or shady environments are best for brushwork. I did my work in the driveway early one spring morning. I got great stares from the early morning joggers and dog servants. :shock:

Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:52 am

Penetrol is the best & fastest way to brighten up chaulked fiberglass, if it isn't too far gone.

Painting is the way to restore really dried up and checked pop top,and you can roll and brush it if you'd like.

Penetrol added to the paint makes it flow flat, and you won't see the end of the brush strokes with it in the paint.

The only down side to refinishig the top is your going to have to sand the whole thing down to give the paint some biter's--or it will blow off is sheets somewhere down the road.

I've used the penetrol staright up --wipe it on--stand back and enjoy the results for years , on boat hulls & decks, fiberglass hoods of trucks, air foil fairings, all with great results.

I have found that one coat of it in the spring, and one in mid summer is all you'll need.

It may cause a pure white top to have a bit of a yellow cast--but not much.

The last time I wiped a coat on my 87 Westy was 2 years ago, and it still is bright and glossy.

I'd have to say it's it's the best bang for your buck, and the easiest way to get your pop top looking like new, in shortest amount of time.

Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:04 am

Rather than start a new Penetrol thread, I'll just bump this one up with a question.

Has anyone had to use more than one Penetrol "coat" on their top? I wiped on a first coat this morning, waited about 10 minutes to buff it off, as the can instructs, and it just seems the top soaked it up. I don't have a gloss yet (white top), but it's maybe not as faded/chalky looking as it was before, but no GLOSS like some of the above pics show.

Would another coat help? Should I buff between coats??

Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:09 am

Depending on how sun beat your top is make a big difference how one coat will work.

No buffing required.
Let the first coat suck into he glass, let it set up, and lay another coat on the top.

Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:06 pm

Okay, so I did a second wipe-on coat of Penetrol after the first one soaked in, that was about 3 hours ago. Looks much better, gloss-wise, BUT I have a problem/concern.

How long does it take this stuff to dry?? It's ben almost three hours sionce I completed wiping on the second application, and the top still feels very sticky!! I mean like sap consistency sticky!!

Anyone else have it take forever to dry? Or did I do something wrong in the application?

All I did was clean the top with a Citrus based general cleaner, dry completely with a towel, let the sun shine on it for an hour or so to completely dry it, and then wiped on two coats of Penetrol.

Any advice?? Or do I just need to be patient? :D

Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:33 am

hiram6 wrote: Anyone else have it take forever to dry? Or did I do something wrong in the application?

All I did was clean the top with a Citrus based general cleaner, dry completely with a towel, let the sun shine on it for an hour or so to completely dry it, and then wiped on two coats of Penetrol.

Any advice?? Or do I just need to be patient? :D For what it's worth... Flood, the makers of Penetrol, sold a product called "Glasworks", a fiberglass Restorer (AFAIK.. it's Penetrol in a new can and higher price) also sold as "Marine penetrol"

You'll find the application instructions here:

http://www.flood.com/flood/Products/Discontinued/Glasworks+Marine+Product+Pg.htm