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Tue Dec 20, 2005 2:21 pm

Anyone have any tips in installing new studs for the oil sump plate? Should I use loctite? EtcEtc

Tue Dec 20, 2005 2:22 pm

If you do... use the blue.

Tue Dec 20, 2005 5:36 pm

yeah, and let the oil drain overnight, or jack up the car at an angle after you drain the oil so that you can get the threads in the case clean and free from more oil running down.

-Andy

Sat Jul 25, 2015 10:12 am

Reviving this old thread with two quick questions.....

The studs I purchased from WW have a short and long threaded end....which end goes up into the engine?

What's the best way to thread them in (the shoulder in the middle of the stud is round so I can't get a wrench on it).

Thanks.

Sat Jul 25, 2015 12:27 pm

I don't think you have the correct stud. All six studs, 1 long and the remaining 5, have never had a "non-threaded" shank on it. As we speak, I don't have the dimensions for these studs, but if needed I can get out into the garage for you. There is also a dimension that the proper stud protrudes from the gasket surface.
Now, if you have worn/damaged 6mm threads in the case one may need to use a longer stud with nut on inside or the oversize stud. Also, an aftermarket sump changes the lengths.
Hope this helps, Bill.

For what it is worth to you, I buy 6mm bolts in bulk, and cut to length. But I have cutting tools, tap, die, vise, etc.

Sat Jul 25, 2015 12:48 pm

Thanks, Bill. Looks like this is what I should have bought.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=N144512

This is what I bought. No picture, but the description sure sounded like what I needed. Live and learn!

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=N144510

So, once I get the correct ones, what's the best way to screw them in? And if someone can point me to the spec for how far they are supposed to protrude, I would appreciate it.

Bob

Sat Jul 25, 2015 1:32 pm

Clean out the hole as indicated above. Try to turn the stud in with your fingers. Likely they will go all the way. If not, put two standard M6 nuts on one end and turn them against each other to lock them to the stud. Now you can turn them in with a wrench.

Install them leaving exactly 10mm extending from the gasket surface.

How long is the unthreaded section? Pic?

Sat Jul 25, 2015 6:12 pm

WW doesn't have a photo of what I bought, but this is similar....it's 35mm vs. 23mm for the one I bought.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=N144513

On mine, the long threaded part is 11.50 mm, the short threaded part is 6.75mm, and the shoulder is 4.75mm.

Sat Jul 25, 2015 7:16 pm

Notice the WW link just calls it a "stud" with no specific application. A 6mm x 35mm stud with a shoulder as pictured would be more like a stock single-port intake manifold stud, or perhaps for use if you're adding an aluminum deep sump to your engine where a longer stud with a shoulder would be desirable.

Must say though I'm confused when you say...
"On mine, the long threaded part is 11.50 mm, the short threaded part is 6.75mm, and the shoulder is 4.75mm."
......do you mean that's what you have in your hand, or what you have ordered :?
Either way, not optimal as sump studs.

It's been well said above, when using a stock oil filter and strainer plate, a 23mm stud is what a stock engine should have. With 10mm exposed, the other 13mm gets threaded into the case.

Sun Jul 26, 2015 2:54 am

i just went out and bought bolts a bit shorter than the stud and some washers and worked like a charm. i honestly dont see why its has to be studs. unless you wanna everything period correct and orginal.

Sun Jul 26, 2015 4:05 am

Sorry for the confusing post. Let me see if I can clear it up.

I bought part number N144510 which WW lists as a "Oil Drain Plate Stud, 6 x 23mm, off set shoulder". I've posted a couple of pics below. From the description, I thought I was buying the right part. From what you guys are telling me, I should have bought the 6 x 23mm stud with no shoulder.

Sun Jul 26, 2015 4:49 am

VICS94HB wrote: i just went out and bought bolts a bit shorter than the stud and some washers and worked like a charm. i honestly dont see why its has to be studs. unless you wanna everything period correct and orginal.

It doesn't have to be studs but by using bolts you risk case damage by repeatedly threading them in & out every time they are removed. Even if you never cross thread them you will still wear the threaded holes in the softer case before you damage the bolts. Properly installed studs with sealer are less likely to leak also.

Sun Jul 26, 2015 5:23 am

Okay, so they are 23mm but they have a shoulder in the middle.

Here are some concerns...

Is 11.50mm enough threads to go all the way into your case and hold tight on repeated oil changes?
Every engine case may be a little different, and you would have to try them in yours, but I believe 13mm to be optimal.

On the other end though, 6.75mm threads + 4.75mm shoulder = 11.5mm exposed stud, which is a hair too long.
Too long and the cap nuts will bottom out on them before the gaskets gets crushed, and if you tighten too much the nut locks onto the stud essentially making it a bolt* so it comes back out every time you change oil.

You may be able to use those if you carefully thread them in so about 1.5mm of the shoulder is buried in the case, or in other words so only 10mm is exposed, but that could potentially cause some damage to the first 1.5mm of threads in the case.

These little details might be insignificant and they may work fine, but wanted to let you know why they are not "optimal" per say.

*@VICS94HB It's not about being period correct or original at, it's about preserving the threads in the engine case for long term serviceability and reliability. That plate has to come off and go back on every 3000 miles for oil and filter maintenance.
Go cheap and simple by using bolts and you will soon be faced with more thread repairs and/or a new engine case.

Sun Jul 26, 2015 5:35 am

Thanks, Bruce. It's not worth messing around with these shoulder studs. I've already ordered the regular 23mm studs. Thanks to all for you input.

Bob

Sun Jul 26, 2015 2:27 pm

WOW. That stud should be nowhere near your sump plate. I would venture someone at WW dropped the ball, or something else here!
Bruce, 61snrf, and MMW hit it square with solid info. If the original case threads this is a very straightforward repair.
Bill.