TheSamba.com :: View topic - Question about spray on rust converter and body filler.

Sun Sep 11, 2005 8:43 am

Hello all.
I just sprayed down my 59 with some aerosal based rust converter and was wondering if i need to sand it down before i put the body filler on the body?
The rust converter was just to keep the car from getting any surface rust while it goes thru the motions in my garage.
Just alittle rust security for it up here in the PNW as the rains have come back and the morning dew is on the lawns.
Car lives in the garage.
Thanx

Sun Sep 11, 2005 5:18 pm

You might want to hit it with 80 grit before you do any filler. The sanding gives the filler something better to grip to. I'm no pro, just what I've read from others. As far as putting primer on bare metal or on top of primer, I've read arguments for and against both. I've been priming mine then fill. Someone will probably say thats wrong. :?

Sun Sep 11, 2005 7:09 pm

Well the entire body is sanded down to bare metal with 80 grit and then I sprayed the entire body with rust converter spray that says its sandable and primable.

Sun Sep 11, 2005 8:37 pm

I took an autobody class a few years ago. The instructor turned me on to a rust converter/metal prep spray that would prevent surface rust on bare metal.

He said it should be sanded before coating with filler or primer - I did and it worked well.

Mon Sep 12, 2005 9:53 am

Thank you.
thats just the kind of response I was looking for.
I will light sand the surface with 150 before applying the body filler.

Mon Sep 12, 2005 3:26 pm

I would sand it too. Most of the rust converters have some type of acid that usually reacts to filler. Better safe than sorry.

Mon Sep 12, 2005 3:42 pm

If you used that "Extend" stuff that they sell at Home Depot, it has to come off. It is a coating.

Picklex and other pickling/zinc phosphating type products like Metal-Ready generally do not.

So the answer to your question depends on what product you used to treat the bare metal.

Tue Sep 13, 2005 7:17 am

Hello Guys I Have Restored over 47 VW's When You Have Them striped down to Bare metal and use a rust converter or metal Prep its best to give it a light sanding with 180 grit sand paper dry sand it then you need to spray it first with a metal etching primer (such as dp40) this makes the primer stick you never want to put any paint or primer on bare metal it dose not stick well and your paint job will chip easy alway use a metal etching primer first. before doing any painting or using primer also when you block out your body work make sure you spray any bare metal spots that sand threw with etching primer you can use it for spots or complete jobs hope this helps Gary. I am currently restoring a 1967 Nova Check it out step by step pictures on its restoration bare metal to paint. http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/forest/3713 there are 19 pages of pictures

Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:18 pm

well the rust converter came from walmart in a aeorsal can and I sprayed it directly on the bare metal ,as the car is currently naked/without any paint.
I then sanded it with 150 grit paper sa as to smooth it out alittle.
then I did the bondo , sanded the bondo , and then sprayed Dupli color high build grey primer over the entire car.
Well see how it works.
The car is gonna be primer for awhile since I need to replace the front clip eventually anyways.

Tue Sep 13, 2005 3:18 pm

That rattle can crap you put on will have to come completely off. It will not be compatible with any kind of real automotive paint that you use later. It may not fail in a year but it will fail in five.

You're asking about compatibility of products but it makes it a bit hard to give accurate recommendations when you don't even know what you put on the car.

If you put any value in the time you spent bodyworking the car, use professional paint materials and apply them according to the data sheets that they give you at the paint store.

Shubee's advice is also 100% legit. Bare metal gets epoxy (etching) primer before high build surfacer or sealer.

Tue Sep 13, 2005 5:41 pm

your aspirations are much to high for me right now.
the entire car is going to get media blasted in a few years .
This is just a temporary body and paint work scheme.

Tue Sep 13, 2005 5:57 pm

Then your plan will work. This should be a very good learning experience for you. I remember making all the same mistakes back when I was 17. I never finished the car and wasted a ridiculous amount of time and money on it when I should have been out trying to get laid.

This has all the hallmarks of an vehicle which be sold as a basket case in 3-5 years. I hope you beat the odds.

Wed Sep 14, 2005 8:47 am

Im 33.
Ive owned countless VW.
My 1st exp was with my 75 super which I rebuilt, ah fuel inj. air cooled.
The car will not be sold in 3-5 as its my sons (hes 3), and if it does , big deal Ill get another one.
I mean christ , I bought it $250 !
I already had about 1000 sheets of various grade sand paper and a 1 gallon jug of bondo and filler.
Settle down man. :roll: