| jack_b_pdx |
Wed Oct 23, 2024 10:39 am |
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Hey all, I am trying to wire up my 1995 EVC for solar, and upgrade the alternator charging.
I currently have a new Renogy 30amp DC-DC charger ready to install, but the big question is regarding the starter battery setup.
According to the manual, I should be wiring the positive and negative terminals from both my house battery and starter battery. I am hoping I can avoid needing to run a wire all the way up to the starter battery for just a negative connection. I can currently bypass the solenoid in the engine bay and simply connect that positive wire (back near the converter) to the DC DC charger.
I am hoping somebody can shed some light on if this is a possible setup or not? I would think because the starter battery is grounded already that I should be able to just connect that positive wire to allow alternator charging, but I am not anywhere close to being an electrician, so hopefully somebody has some input! |
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| orbeamike |
Wed Oct 23, 2024 2:36 pm |
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You don't need to run a wire all the way to the starter battery if you gain access to the terminal block next to the converter. You can also use chassis ground since the whole setup is non isolated - common ground for all negative terminals.
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| jack_b_pdx |
Thu Oct 24, 2024 10:55 am |
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orbeamike wrote: You don't need to run a wire all the way to the starter battery if you gain access to the terminal block next to the converter. You can also use chassis ground since the whole setup is non isolated - common ground for all negative terminals.
I currently have access to the terminal block as I just replaced the converter. I had another user mention that he just wired the DC-DC charger house battery out terminal to the same isolation stud like you have pictured here. Is that the assumed best way to go with the EVC wiring setup?
I plan to build a mount for the DC DC right where the furnace was (I have removed the furnace and propane tank) so it would be very easy to just wire it directly back into the isolation stud, and then just attach a cable from common negative to the cassis ground stud where all the other negatives are in the back?
Sorry if this is simple, I just want to make sure I have it all figured out before I start drilling haha. |
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| kourt |
Thu Oct 24, 2024 11:55 am |
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When I installed my Renogy DCDC 50A charger, I also installed their battery monitor with shunt.
The shunt is a DC negative (ground) circuit monitor and it creates a convenient place to build a ground bus. In my case, I made that bus on one of the rear wheel fenders, on the sheet metal. This has been sufficient to act as a ground bus for any circuits in the rear of the van, and it is in common bus with the start battery.
It turns out I use the battery monitor the most to determine the house battery state, as it accounts for all loads/charges.
You can see the Renogy controls below, from top left:
1. DCDC charger control panel
2. Battery monitor
3. inverter control panel
kourt
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| jack_b_pdx |
Thu Oct 24, 2024 4:13 pm |
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kourt wrote: When I installed my Renogy DCDC 50A charger, I also installed their battery monitor with shunt.
The shunt is a DC negative (ground) circuit monitor and it creates a convenient place to build a ground bus. In my case, I made that bus on one of the rear wheel fenders, on the sheet metal. This has been sufficient to act as a ground bus for any circuits in the rear of the van, and it is in common bus with the start battery.
It turns out I use the battery monitor the most to determine the house battery state, as it accounts for all loads/charges.
You can see the Renogy controls below, from top left:
1. DCDC charger control panel
2. Battery monitor
3. inverter control panel
kourt
Thanks for the info! I actually have the battery monitor with shunt installed as well, but I added that shunt inside the battery box. I am planning to install the DC DC just above the converter, mounted to the support bracket from the furnace on a plywood mounting board. My plan (as of now) is to wire it up as advised above, and connect a ground cable to the common ground stud that is on the frame of the van near the back of the circuit board.
I think this should work based on what everyone has said, but if I am off I would love to hear what anyone has to say! |
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