JeffRens |
Sun Aug 03, 2014 5:08 am |
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Last fall I stripped the hood, doors, fenders, and engine cover on my 56 Oval. Since I live in Northern Indiana I was running out of body work/paint work time due to the winter from hell. In my infinite wisdom, I rattle canned Rustoleum etching primer on the parts thinking it would be the best way to protect them until I could restart work in the spring. Researching now, I find that epoxy primer or body filler doesn't live well with etching primer. I think I'll have a nervous breakdown, or at least have to go on medication if I have to take them down to metal again. Does anybody with knowledge of my dilemma know of any primer the can go over the etching primer... there is a fair amount of filler work needed on some of the parts. Thanks in advance for any help..... Jeff |
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chrisflstf |
Sun Aug 03, 2014 4:28 pm |
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It depends on the product you use. Some can, some cant. Ask your local supplier or whoever you will buy it from for input. |
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Clatter |
Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:05 pm |
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If it's any consolation,
Blasting off any rattle-can type product is going to go really quickly... |
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panicman |
Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:40 pm |
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I did the same thing. My painter wanted the spray bomb GONE.
It added about a month delay to my final primer and paint. I had used the Rustoleum primer over areas that had metal showing through, and I have to admit, I just liked seeing one uniform color on the car.
I wound up sanding the spray bomb off with mostly 400 grit, along with some red scotchbrite. I got it all off, but it was a pain. Lots of tight places that made me apoplectic. I'll never do that again. |
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Mike Fisher |
Tue Aug 05, 2014 8:37 am |
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I would rough it up by hand a little and spray on top of it. |
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67 Sunroof |
Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:02 am |
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I am in the same predicament.
I sanded down to metal (5 coats) on doors, and quarters-never did any fenders, hood, deck lid and sprayed a light coat of duplicolor etching primer (spray bomb) over the metal to protect from surfaces rusting.
I have not done the interior at all and just got a quote from someone to soda blast the entire car (fenders, hood, deck lid, and body inside and out on a rotisserie) for $1300-$1500.
I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and have him do the damn car.
The time I'm gonna spend sanding in the heat isn't gonna be worth it IMO. |
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Thrasher22 |
Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:28 am |
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I also did the same thing and had to remove stupid rustoleum from just about everywhere on my bus after I finished welding. :evil:
Filler "might" be okay, but the problem is rustoleum is an oil based and things that aren't oil based don't like to stick to it. I had no issues touching up primer with non-oil based spray bombs, then spraying with "real" auto paint after.
So unless you're planning on sticking with oil based top coats or find a filler that is compatible, I'd removed it as thoroughly as possible. You should still sand the primer after it sitting that long for adhesion. |
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