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  View original topic: Paint Question... Etching Primer
JeffRens Sun Aug 03, 2014 5:08 am

Last fall I stripped the hood, doors, fenders, and engine cover on my 56 Oval. Since I live in Northern Indiana I was running out of body work/paint work time due to the winter from hell. In my infinite wisdom, I rattle canned Rustoleum etching primer on the parts thinking it would be the best way to protect them until I could restart work in the spring. Researching now, I find that epoxy primer or body filler doesn't live well with etching primer. I think I'll have a nervous breakdown, or at least have to go on medication if I have to take them down to metal again. Does anybody with knowledge of my dilemma know of any primer the can go over the etching primer... there is a fair amount of filler work needed on some of the parts. Thanks in advance for any help..... Jeff

chrisflstf Sun Aug 03, 2014 4:28 pm

It depends on the product you use. Some can, some cant. Ask your local supplier or whoever you will buy it from for input.

Clatter Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:05 pm

If it's any consolation,
Blasting off any rattle-can type product is going to go really quickly...

panicman Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:40 pm

I did the same thing. My painter wanted the spray bomb GONE.

It added about a month delay to my final primer and paint. I had used the Rustoleum primer over areas that had metal showing through, and I have to admit, I just liked seeing one uniform color on the car.

I wound up sanding the spray bomb off with mostly 400 grit, along with some red scotchbrite. I got it all off, but it was a pain. Lots of tight places that made me apoplectic. I'll never do that again.

Mike Fisher Tue Aug 05, 2014 8:37 am

I would rough it up by hand a little and spray on top of it.

67 Sunroof Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:02 am

I am in the same predicament.
I sanded down to metal (5 coats) on doors, and quarters-never did any fenders, hood, deck lid and sprayed a light coat of duplicolor etching primer (spray bomb) over the metal to protect from surfaces rusting.

I have not done the interior at all and just got a quote from someone to soda blast the entire car (fenders, hood, deck lid, and body inside and out on a rotisserie) for $1300-$1500.
I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and have him do the damn car.
The time I'm gonna spend sanding in the heat isn't gonna be worth it IMO.

Thrasher22 Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:28 am

I also did the same thing and had to remove stupid rustoleum from just about everywhere on my bus after I finished welding. :evil:

Filler "might" be okay, but the problem is rustoleum is an oil based and things that aren't oil based don't like to stick to it. I had no issues touching up primer with non-oil based spray bombs, then spraying with "real" auto paint after.

So unless you're planning on sticking with oil based top coats or find a filler that is compatible, I'd removed it as thoroughly as possible. You should still sand the primer after it sitting that long for adhesion.



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