Hydraulic Lifters???

[William Mercer]

I am still having trouble with my two rear exhaust valves. My bus is a '76 but I am wondering if the valves were changed to hydraulics. I have tried repeatedly to do a valve adjustment and the feeler gauge never slips right through. Can someone tell me how I can tell the difference, or what I should look for? I was under the impression that hydraulic adjusting nuts were small, 10mm. The adjusting nuts on mine are 14mm.

[TeamSpatula]

Are you sure it's set at TDC for the cylinder you're trying to adjust? If not, the valve springs will be under compression from the push rods, and it will be really hard to adjust. Also, exhaust valves do tend to heat up and get tighter sooner than intake valves, so maybe they are just really tight. Double check the rotor on the distributor - it should be pointing to the plug wire of the cylinder you're trying to adjust. If that's right, then adjust away. They may be tight, but you've got to loosen them up to adjust them correctly.
_________________
<---Air Cooled Search & Rescue Team - STICKERS & T-shirts for sale!
I NEED A CAMPER!!!! (1971 is ideal but will consider other years)
http://www.TeamSpatula.com

[William Mercer]

I am almost positive the distributor is correct for the adjustment. I have tried it several times. The gauge won't go even when removing the adjusting bolt.

[Amskeptic]

If you are dead-certain that you are at TDC for your cylinder, you should get clearance when you back off the adjuster screws, whether or not it is hydraulic or solid. If you do not, you will have to investigate, even going so far as removing the rockers to check your installed valve height against all of the other valves. You might have serious seat recession or stretched valve issues. . .
Colin

[ratwell]

[germansupplyscott]

[Wiltshire]

Good day all,
Looking at these threads I see that I have come accross the same issue. Mine however was on #1 cylinder exhaust valve. I turned the adjustment screw all the back and still couldn't get any clearence. Also, I hade 14mm jam nuts as well. I pulled the spark plug to see if there was any sign of damage but the plug was fine. I completed the valve adjustment on the rest of the valves. Some were tight and some had enough to get .006" gauge thru before adjustment. Makes me wonder if the lifters were changed from solid to hydraulic. The engine code is GD so it should be solid.
We took the bus for a ride and I ghink it ran a bit hotter than normal.
So I guess my question is that if I have hydraulic valvs lifters how are they adjusted properly?
Running the bus now sounds a lot noisier than it did before.

[Wildthings]

[Wiltshire]

Thanks for the tip.
I have investigated a bit more and now know for sure I have solid lifters.
Doesn't really matter much now as I have to replace the head. The #1 exhaust valve is sunk.
Can one just replace one cylinder head or is it best to do both?
I have taken a video of the engine running but having some difficulty posting it.
I'll figure it out later.
_________________
1976 Westfalia
2.0L with dual carbs

[Wildthings]

It is not absolutely necessary to do both heads, but you should certainly pull them both for inspection. If you can afford it go ahead and send the second head in and have it checked out by a professional.

[Wiltshire]

Good day again,
So I'm looking to buy new heads. Just going to do both. I love the bus and will have it forever so what the heck...

Is there anything I should know that's out of the ordinary when purchasing new heads?

I have the engine code, I know the bore. I know I have oval intake and oval stepped exhaust ports.

any off the wall advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
_________________
1976 Westfalia
2.0L with dual carbs

[SGKent]

don't drive it until it is fixed. If a seat comes loose it can destroy the rest of an engine if it isn't the owner's day.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

[Wiltshire]

Thanks,
Since I'm all the way up in Canada I am going to hunt in house. I think I can get decent heads from CIP1. I will document everything and post it as I go.
_________________
1976 Westfalia
2.0L with dual carbs

[scrivyscriv]

I haven't personally done business with CIP1, but I'd recommend researching their feedback before you pull the trigger.
_________________
Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[Wiltshire]

Good day,
I did ask who made them. They are made be American Casting?... I can't remember exactly as I working at the same time. I googled the manufacturer and saw that they made heads for all kids of makes and models.
I tried something yesturday. I have been working on this bus for several months and have just got to the engine portion of the project. It ran well from what I thought. I was wrong, I know this now. I drove it a bit but not much. In town and back. Everytime I went up a hill it would ping. So I looked at the timing. Set to 12' on idle. Lol. Changed to 7.5 after removing points and install of pertronics(sp). After that there was an obvious lifter rattle. It was always there I'm sure. Just figured it was an old engine. So I looked at the valve lashing. It was a mess. Plus #1 exhaust valve is sunk. Looked at the sticker inside the engine compartment lid. 0.006". Ok. Great no problem. Done, all adjusted. Yes, I know I shouldn't have run it but its most likely ran that way a long long time.
Nope. Worse then ever. Research, research research. Looked at pics and pics.
Tonight I'm pulling push rods and the lifters from #1. I was told over and over that I have solid lifters but I think the PO didn't know s_____! If the bus was run with valve lash and hydro's I'm thinkin all the lifters will need replacing plus maybe a full rebuild. I have no budget for that right now. Two heads, gaskets, tube seals and a set of lifters on order. All the high end parts. No cheapies. OEM. Lots of work to do. Hopefuly the cam is OK. I'm going to try and photo as much as I can while doing it. As you can tell I'm a little crazed over the whole thing. I have always wanted a westy just like this. I'm in for the long haul for now. I believe it can be saved. The frame/body are in great shape. Not perfect but great. I'll catch up later when I find out if its hydro's or solids. Btw. I did a test run after hydraulic valve adjustment. Ran quiet, like unbelievably quiet but no power. Lifters are all broken is my guess and idled a bit rough. But the heads still need to be replaced so....
_________________
1976 Westfalia
2.0L with dual carbs

[SGKent]

AMC is "Amadeo Marti Carbonell, S.A" in Spain. Their air cooled heads are the only ones out there other than some very VERY expensive custom racing castings. Len Hoffman at Hoffman Automotive Machine in Georgia buys pallets of their heads, pulls the seats, guides, springs, valves etc., puts in better parts and sets them up like they should be. He has different configurations depending on what they will be used with. I have a set of solid lifter heads on order right now. He is quite trustworthy, and skilled. He has the equipment to do the correct job.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Tcash]

If the bus was run with valve lash and hydro's I'm thinking all the lifters will need replacing plus maybe a full rebuild.
Not necessarily.
http://www.syncro.org/boston_bob-hydrauli-lifter-lore.html


I did a test run after hydraulic valve adjustment.
You need to determine if you have hydraulic or solid lifter and adjust accordingly.
Lifters Hydraulic or Solid ?

Good luck
Tcash

[Wildthings]

If you set solid lifters with preload as per hydraulic lifters, they will be nice a quiet but the engine will make little power.

[captincanuck]