July 2016 engine job ~ 1991 Vanagon Multivan

[mrshrimp]

X2 on the Bens place page. I had did some work on my engine last year, no to your extent I just had to replace water jacket seal. But his page was very helpfull when when assembling everything back together, especially the correct sealants to use and where. FYI I have an almost full container of the Permatex Aviation sealant used for the high pressure parts you can have, just PM me.

http://www.benplace.com/vanagon_engine2.htm

[Babin]

Hi Robw_z!

I ordered the P&C set from Gowesty thought Van-cafe since I had an order going out of there, to combine in one shipping. The piston were readily unavailable to Van-Cafe with more than a week of lead time. Then I tried to order online directly from Gowesty and I was confirmed by a customer service phone call that the cylinder could leave the same day and were in stock. So I asked Gowesty to get them to Van-Vafe before my shipment would leave, in that case they were no longer available all the sudden again. All in all it was not right, which ever way you look at this. And mostly, I lost a lot of valuable time thinking about an option that was not readily available as stated. So I offered them to forget all about their bad service if they fast ship it ASAP to me and waive the core fee, they decline and didn't know what problem I was talking about and said the piston were available again for order online. A few hour later someone else wrote me the piston were finally unavailable, with apologizes. He compared it to engine being available for order but not ready to ship out. And busy time of year. You know the whole «we screw up, but what the heck». If I had knew it would take a week, they wouldn't have been considered in the first place, just like getting JE to copy my current piston.

As far as drop in gowesty 2,2L piston set or not, I wanted to find out, that was one of the reason I was trying to order them. I do believe they are direct fit, just as you. Nobody confirmed this so far. In my pistons book schedule, I will installed the used stock one on monday, test them on wenesday and decide on friday what they are worth compare to my old one. But I'm certainly not getting Gowesty's, no matter what happen. AA piston sells forge JE piston that are probably just as good for less, and without the core charge.

[pablum]

fwiw van-cafe are the lightningfastest at delivery: overnight is the norm for them. But if they must coordinate with a third-party to get you your order, you may not see that.

[djkeev]

VanCafe is the #1 after market supplier.
Fast, honest, conscientious.

If they screwed up, they make it a point to own up to it.

But, even the best occasionally stumble I guess.

Other suppliers are good, but none of them have VanCafes level of service, even if you ask and offer to pay extra for it..... BTDT.

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[Babin]

Yeah Van-Cafe is the best part supplier for my vanagon without a doubt!
As I said before they offer great price, hard to find part and a golden service.

I cannot say the same from Gowesty.

[Ahwahnee]

[Babin]

Hi Ahwahnee,

It's more of a matter of honesty and trust. In this case, either you have the product and sell it, or you just don't. If you act like you do and don't on what you feel like. Then the customer trust is set back. A customer that feel he is being played around, start to wonder about other thing. Like why exactly is my Gowesty exhaust is so loud, louder than the pierce one I replaced, did they screw me there too? Trust is hard to gain and easy to loose. I would prefer customer with trust rather than quick dollar if I ever was to do retail. I got premium service from Van Cafe in the last few years when I ordered, and I go back to them without even thinking otherwise. Customer trust is a powerful tool.

But this isn't a thread about retailer service. It was supposed to help me get answers.

GER13 stamp on my crank, is that stock?

[Babin]

Lifters! I guest I couldn't get away without a lifter post. I didn't want to replace the lifter in the first place. But I ordered them anyway, you know just in case. I didn't wanted to replaced them because I just couldn't get them out. I read a few post that simply pull on them, no way here! Magnetic puller, way out. After reading a bunch today about lifter I decided I would at least check them since I'm there. So I got them out by forcing them out from inside the other side of the case with a long screwdriver just aside the cam lobe. Even then it wasn't easy to force them out. Anyone know what that mean, the fact that they didn't want to come out? Of the 8, 7 bleeded oil and one never (outage valve cylinder #1). 5 where rock hard impossible to pressed down. 3 where easily pressed down. The 3 that were easy to pressed down were located on the same side and in a row, with both cylinder #2 valves and intake of #1 (if i'm right). That is the same side as the one that didn't bleed. Is this a particular sign? I will check my push rod for slight bend tomorrow, but no obvious bend was seen when taking apart or cleaning.

[Babin]

Parts! The cylinder are back, cleaned, rings, balanced. I also grab some bearing guard (clevite) And the Van-Cafe order just rolled in. Ready for the put together.

[djkeev]

You Forced the lifters out with a screw driver from behind?!?
Not good.
Mechanical work and forcing are two words that shouldn't be used Together. They didn't cone out because of varnish build up. A shot of carb cleaner would have removed it lickity split.

Those lifter faces are polished and rotated as the operate.

If the screw driver tip marred that polished cam face, throw them away or they'll wipe off your cam lobes!
If you keep them, I hope you marked what hole they were in.


Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[Babin]

I would say I push them. And they were not to come out. I check them and there is no metal damage or mark to the back. But I replaced them anyway, since I don't plan to come back here any time soon. Well I hope not.

[djkeev]

[Babin]

What would that be?

[djkeev]

[Howesight]

Most cam manufacturers have recommendations for breaking in their camshafts and/or lifters. The essential thing is to avoid long cranking before start up and to get the engine quickly up to, say, 2,000 to 3,000 rpm and do not allow the rpms to go down below 2,000 for the recommended number of minutes.

The idea is to work-harden the cam lobe surfaces and the lifters (if they are new). Most reputable camshaft makers include a special lubricant that you apply to the cam lobes and the lifters at assembly time. In addition, you should run ZDDP additive in your engine oil for at least the first few oil changes.

For piston ring break-in, it is critical that you do not use synthetic oil until after the rings are well broken in. Breaking in the rings works very differently from breaking in the cam. For proper ring break-in, it is very important to place a load on the engine. In fact, it is best to get the vehicle on the road ASAP after start up and run the vehicle up a hill at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, varying the rpm's but going no lower than, say, 2,000 rpm's to ensure that the cam break-in is not compromised. For ring break-in, after applying a load and taking the engine through the gears up to , say, 3,500 rpm to start, let the engine slow down to 2,000 rpm with a trailing throttle each time (ie; the van is pushing the engine). Repeat a few times, eventually getting the load up to 3/4 throttle, continuously varying the engine RPM and allowing the throttle to trail each time you slow down. This is very important for obtaining the best ring seal possible.

You can avoid this altogether if you wish and your engine will run just fine, but it will use more oil and never develop the degree of ring sealing that can be achieved with this proper break-in approach. It's a simple operation, but it is so critical to getting a perfect ring break-in.

After only 30 to 60 minutes of running, change the oil, avoiding synthetic oil. After another 300 to 500 miles, the ring and cam break-in will be complete and you can change the oil again. On the third oil change, you can begin to use synthetic oil if you choose.
_________________
'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[Babin]

Great infos Howesight!

I was planning on doing something similar for the ring break-in. Thanks for confirming. I did put the special lubricant on my lifter and as much as I could on the cam and on the crank close to the rod bearing. I also did check my cam lobe for dent, but from all I seen they were fine. I hope they are. Will see on Wednesday.

I still need to figure out what wire power which injector, if anyone know please tell me.

[djkeev]

[Babin]

Really? How can that be? Gas pressure in the gas ramp at all time I'm see that. But injectors on cylinder #4 and #3 pushing gas at the same time, sound strange. I will do as you say. But if you explain why I would appreciate.

[pablum]

[Babin]

I started the reassembly by putting the new lifter in. They were a little different from the one I pulled out. The had a line in the machining near the side hole.

I started by trimming them with oil in the side hole with the used of a syringe until oil came out from the other hole.

Then I put some bearing guard around and under the lifter.

Then I slide them in, they easily when in, no need to push hard.