Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch.
Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 7:02 pm    Post subject: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

The VW is a 1971 SB Convertible with a new wiring harness and new T/S switch. I am blowing fuse #8 any time I engage the T/S switch and fuse #8 when I engage the E Flasher. I did some testing this morning with my meter for ohm resistance and this is what I found:
On output of fuse #12, .62K with everything off. .62K with switch on. .62K with either T/S on.
On output of fuse #8, OL with everything off. OL with switch on. .60K with flasher on (and switch on).

I disconnected the Black/White and Black/Green connectors under the trunk and tested them (to a good ground) and this is what I got (just replaced the E flasher switch with a new one).

Black/White to T/S switch
Switch off .6
Switch on .6
Left T/S on .6
Right T/S on .6
E switch on .6

Black/White to E Switch
Switch off OL
Switch on OL
Left T/S on OL
Right T/S on OL
E switch on .6

Black/White to Front of Car
Switch off 1.1
Switch on 1.1
Left T/S on 1.1
Right T/S on 1.1
E Switch on 1.1

Black/White to rear of car
Switch off 1.5
Switch on 1.5
Left T/S on 1.5
Right T/S on 1.5
E Switch on 1.5

Black/Green to T/S switch
Switch off .7
Switch on .7
Left T/S on .7
Right T/S on .7
E Switch on .7

Black/Green to E Switch
Switch off OL
Switch on OL
Left T/S on OL
Right T/S on OL
E Switch on 7.6 (this is different than the Black/White reading above)

Black/Green to Front of car
Switch off 1.2
Switch on 1.1
Left T/S on 1.1
Right T/S on 1.1
E Switch on 1.1

Black/Green to Rear of Car
Switch off 1.2
Switch on 1.2
Left T/S on 1.2
Right T/S on 1.2
E Switch on 1.2

The testing was done with the battery disconnected and all fuses removed. I grounded the tester to the battery's negative strap (to the frame). The readings are confusing to me and I don't know what to make of them. Most of the readings were below the magical 1.7 ohm reading for a short so nothing seems correct.

I hope someone can make some sense of this mess for me and give me a guiding light to follow. I have ordered a new 3 prong flasher relay thinking this might be part of the problem. All other lights (headlight, brake, parking) are working.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
David_nc_72std
Samba Member


Joined: August 22, 2015
Posts: 841
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
David_nc_72std is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 7:45 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

Quote:
Most of the readings were below the magical 1.7 ohm reading for a short so nothing seems correct.


When you are measuring the wiring going to the light bulbs in the turn signals, you will get a very low reading like that. The resistance of the filament in a light bulb increases with temperature, so you get a very low reading at room temperature, and your readings don't look out of the ordinary. What you may want to do is remove the bulbs and measure the resistance, then it should be near infinite.

Looking over your measurements, it does seem odd that you are getting a low reading on the black/white and black/green wires going to the turn signal switch. If you have those wires isolated so they ONLY go to the turn signal switch, the reading should be almost infinite when the switch is off.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:29 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

David, I will remove the bulbs and test further. BTW, for this VW, the Black/White wire is the Left side and the Black/Green is the Right side.

I did further testing this afternoon with the fuses back in but no power. The numbers are higher than those without fuses.

Black/White (Left) to T/S switch
Ignition off .9
Ignition on .9
Left T/S on .9
Right T/S on .9
E Switch on .9

Black/White to E Switch
OL for everything except
E Switch on 8.2

Black/White to front
1.3 for all

Black/White to rear
2.0 for all

Black/Green to T/S switch
1.2 for all

Black/Green to E switch
OL for all except
E switch on 8.3

Black/Green to front
1.7 for all

Black/Green to rear
1.9 for all

A lot of data but what does it signify?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

I will also add that, with the fuses back in, I went under the dash and tested resistance on fuse 8 and 12 at the output side.

fuse #12
Switch off 6.2 ohms
Switch on 6.2 ohms
T/S on 4.8 ohms
E Switch on 4.8 ohms

fuse #8
Switch off 80K (would not stay stable)
Switch on 6.0 ohms
T/S on 4.7 ohms
E Switch on 4.7 ohms
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ashman40
Samba Member


Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15975
Location: North Florida, USA
ashman40 is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 6:44 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

When testing resistance in a circuit you need to isolate that circuit so you are testing a known path. By testing the circuits w/ the fuses installed you are also reading resistance backward thru the ignition and 12v constant circuits.

Isolate and test the following three components so you can see if any are grounding the circuit.

Turn signal switch:
    Find the three turn signal switch wires that pass thru the firewall hole along with the rest of the wires running to the steering column:
    black/green/white
    black/green
    black/white
    Separate these three wires from their connectors so the turn signal switch is disconnected from everything. You may also need to remove the turn signal indicator lamp from the speedo. Test each wire for ground is all positions. Also check that it doesn't ground as the switch is moving between positions. Leave the switch disconnected.


E-Flasher switch:
    Find the output wires from the E-Flasher switch and disconnect them from their junctions:
    black/green
    black/white
    brown ground wire
    Disconnect the flasher relay and jumper the #49 (+) and #49a wires together.
    Separate the two input wires (red and black) at the fuse box from anything else. Test these two wires for ground. Since everything has been disconnected there should be infinite resistance (OL). If you find resistance to ground it likely means a short somewhere.


Lastly, test each of the circuits that run to the corners.
black/green
black/white
Separate the wires at the 4-way junctions. Since you have the bulbs removed you should have infinite resistance to ground. Any resistance to ground indicates a short (or a bulb you have missed).
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 12:28 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

Disconnect the flasher relay and jumper the #49 (+) and #49a wires together.
Separate the two input wires (red and black) at the fuse box from anything else. Test these two wires for ground. Since everything has been disconnected there should be infinite resistance (OL). If you find resistance to ground it likely means a short somewhere.

ashman40, please expand on this a bit. Disconnect means to remove the wires from the relay? Jumper means to connect 49+ and 49a together? Which red and black input wires at the fuse box? There are none that go to the relay so where do they go from the fuse box? Thanks.

Ok, now I see the red and black wires between the fuse box and the E switch, right?

Btw, I don't have a black/green/white wire in my steering harness. I do have a black wire that I've assumed replaced the original color. It is the only wire I've had to guess at while using the original wiring diagram.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ashman40
Samba Member


Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15975
Location: North Florida, USA
ashman40 is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 12:54 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

drbacklash wrote:
Disconnect the flasher relay and jumper the #49 (+) and #49a wires together.
Separate the two input wires (red and black) at the fuse box from anything else. Test these two wires for ground. Since everything has been disconnected there should be infinite resistance (OL). If you find resistance to ground it likely means a short somewhere.

ashman40, please expand on this a bit. Disconnect means to remove the wires from the relay? Jumper means to connect 49+ and 49a together? Which red and black input wires at the fuse box? There are none that go to the relay so where do they go from the fuse box? Thanks.

Ok, now I see the red and black wires between the fuse box and the E switch, right?

Yes, red and black wires are the ones that run from the fuse box to the E-Flasher switch. I suggested you disconnect them because the black wire is shared with another circuit. If the black wires are spliced into a single female terminal at the fuse box you may need to disconnect the fuel gauge and lower speedo connections as well (other black wire). You want the black wire isolated where it only connects to the E-flasher switch and has no other path to ground.
The red wire SHOULD be the only wire on the OUTPUT side of #8 fuse, but in case the PO added something else I suggested you disconnect it as well. We are trying to isolate the circuit so the only path is thru the E-Flasher switch. Test both red and black wire for ground in BOTH E-Flasher switch positions as well as in between ON and OFF positions.

At the flasher relay, disconnect the white wire that runs to the #49 (+) terminal and the wire that runs to the #49a terminal (blue or black/green/white). Connect these two loose wires together. Make sure they don't touch anything. This bypasses the flasher relay and removes it from the equation.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ashman40
Samba Member


Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15975
Location: North Florida, USA
ashman40 is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 12:58 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

drbacklash wrote:
Btw, I don't have a black/green/white wire in my steering harness. I do have a black wire that I've assumed replaced the original color. It is the only wire I've had to guess at while using the original wiring diagram.

Sounds like an aftermarket T/S switch.
You can test this.... once you have the T/S switch wires separated, confirm there is an electrical path (short) between the black wire (originally black/green/white) and each of the left (black/white) and right (black/green) OUTPUT wires when the T/S lever is in the appropriate position.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:09 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

Ashman, I have some preliminary test results based on your instructions and I thought I would go ahead and post them in the hope you see the problem. Besides, its hot in the garage and I need a break from leaning under the hood.

Verifying that my Black T/S wire is the substitute for the original Black/Green/White wire. One tester lead connected to the black wire and the other to either the Back/White or Black/Green from the T/S switch.

Black to Black/White (Left)
switch off OL
switch on OL
Left T/S .5 ohms
Right T/S .5 ohms
E switch OL

Black to Black/Green
switch off OL
switch on OL
Left T/S .5 ohms
Right T/S .5 ohms
E Switch OL

Test of 3 T/S wires to ground
1. Black/White
Switch off .6 ohms
Switch on .6 ohms
L T/S on .6 ohms
R T/S .6 ohms
E switch on .6 ohms

2. Black/Green
Switch off .6 ohms
Switch on .6 ohms
L T/S on .6 ohms
R T/S on .6 ohms
E switch on .6 ohms

3. Black
Switch off OL
Switch on OL
L T/S on .6 ohms
R T/S on .6 ohms
E switch on OL

Corner lights to ground with bulbs out
All tested OL

I put the bulbs back in and got a consistent reading of 1.0 ohms for the front.
For the rear I got 1.7 on the Black/White (left) and 1.4 ohms on black/green (right). I removed the bulbs again.

I know some of the tests I made were unnecessary but I wanted to be consistent in my procedure. Besides, it was easy to do.

Not so easy to do is the test of the E switch. The ground wire is daisy-chained from the e switch, brake light, T/S switch, flasher relay and then to ground. Disconnecting all those is challenging. Also the flasher relay sits on top of the fuse box and I have to turn it upside down in limited space to remove the wires there. No biggie since I'm going to replace the relay with a new on.

So, do you see anything yet that makes you say "Hmmm"?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 12:50 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

Ok, here are the test results for the E switch. Since you said I should have infinite readings, I suspect these results indicate a short. The Black/White and Black/Green were disconnected from their junction points and the brown ground wire was disconnected from ground and brake warning light. All three wires were removed from the flasher relay and 49 and 49a were connected. The ground wire, 31, was left disconnected.

Test made to ground
Red wire (output of fuse #Cool
Switch off OL
Switch on OL
Left T/S on OL
Right T/S on OL
E Switch on 11.9 ohms

Black wire (output of fuse #12)
Switch off 16.7 ohms
Switch on 16.7 ohms
Left T/S on 16.7 ohms
Right T/S on 16.7 ohms
E Switch on OL

Short? Maybe where? Switched wires? Find another hobby?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ashman40
Samba Member


Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15975
Location: North Florida, USA
ashman40 is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 1:41 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

drbacklash wrote:
Verifying that my Black T/S wire is the substitute for the original Black/Green/White wire. One tester lead connected to the black wire and the other to either the Back/White or Black/Green from the T/S switch.

Black to Black/White (Left)
switch off OL
switch on OL
Left T/S .5 ohms
Right T/S .5 ohms
E switch OL

Black to Black/Green
switch off OL
switch on OL
Left T/S .5 ohms
Right T/S .5 ohms
E Switch OL

When you say "switch on" and "switch off", I'm guessing you mean the "ignition switch"?
Can you confirm the above tests were done while the three wires you were testing were completely disconnected from everything else? I mentioned above you need to isolate the three components (T/S switch, E-Flasher switch and corner lights). If the wires were still connected to something then your tests are mostly meaningless as the current from your ohm meter will flow down all possible paths and return the sum of the resistances, instead of the resistance for the preferred path thru the switch when the switch if ON/OFF. We are trying to simulate testing the switches on your bench.
I was expecting to see 0-ohms on just one side when you set the turn signal to left or right. You are getting 0.5ohms to BOTH output wires regardless of which side the switch is ON. This shouldn't be the case. If you in fact tested the three wires completely disconnected from everything, then your T/S switch is bad and allowing current to flow between both outputs when the switch is L or R.

Also, check the readings thru the entire length of switch movement. For example, the meter reads 0.5ohms when the T/S is in the full LEFT position, but if it is only 75% in the LEFT position do you get the expected 0-ohm reading? I have seen this before with cheap switches. The work when you move the lever to 50-75% of full movement, but at 100% of the lever movement they either don't work, or they short to ground.


drbacklash wrote:
Test of 3 T/S wires to ground
1. Black/White
Switch off .6 ohms
Switch on .6 ohms
L T/S on .6 ohms
R T/S .6 ohms
E switch on .6 ohms

2. Black/Green
Switch off .6 ohms
Switch on .6 ohms
L T/S on .6 ohms
R T/S on .6 ohms
E switch on .6 ohms

3. Black
Switch off OL
Switch on OL
L T/S on .6 ohms
R T/S on .6 ohms
E switch on OL

Again, the above is only meaningful if the three T/S wires are completely disconnected from any other wires.
It appears that the L and R outputs share a common 0.6ohm short to ground. When the black INPUT wire is connected to either side it shares the 0.6ohm path to ground. When the turn signal switch is OFF the black wire is isolated.

As a further test, do the same tests above AFTER you have removed the four screws holding the T/S switch down in place, pull the entire T/S switch out of the steering housing. You don't need to completely remove it or all the wires, just make sure it is not touching the housing anywhere.
If you find that the resistance to ground readings go from 0.6ohms to OL, then you know that the T/S is grounding the L and R circuits while it is installed. This has happened before where the wires in the T/S switch are touching either the four hold down screws or the edges of the switch when it is installed in the housing.


drbacklash wrote:
Corner lights to ground with bulbs out
All tested OL

Finally a desired reading! It looks like your wiring to the corner bulbs is good.



drbacklash wrote:
I put the bulbs back in and got a consistent reading of 1.0 ohms for the front.
For the rear I got 1.7 on the Black/White (left) and 1.4 ohms on black/green (right). I removed the bulbs again.

Strange, if the bulbs are the same on the left and the right the readings should be nearly identical. Can you compare the model# of the bulbs? Are they the same between the left and right sides?
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ashman40
Samba Member


Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15975
Location: North Florida, USA
ashman40 is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 2:40 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

drbacklash wrote:
Ok, here are the test results for the E switch. Since you said I should have infinite readings, I suspect these results indicate a short. The Black/White and Black/Green were disconnected from their junction points and the brown ground wire was disconnected from ground and brake warning light. All three wires were removed from the flasher relay and 49 and 49a were connected. The ground wire, 31, was left disconnected.

Test made to ground
Red wire (output of fuse #Cool
Switch off OL
Switch on OL
Left T/S on OL
Right T/S on OL
E Switch on 11.9 ohms

Black wire (output of fuse #12)
Switch off 16.7 ohms
Switch on 16.7 ohms
Left T/S on 16.7 ohms
Right T/S on 16.7 ohms
E Switch on OL

Instead of 11.9ohms or 16.7 ohms I was expecting 0-ohms.
These readings could be because of the illumination lamp? Is there a grey/red wire connected to the E-flasher switch? This wire comes daisy chained from the headlight switch. Sorry, I should have said to disconnected this wire from the E-Flasher switch as well, if you have it.

This diagram from Speedy Jim's site may help as it provides a visual description of how the T/S and E-Flasher circuits interface:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If you disconnected the black/green and black/white OUTPUTS from the E-Flasher switch (bottom right-center) you should have no path to ground. When the E-Flasher switch is OFF, the #15 black wire INPUT is shorted to the (+) white wire. Since this is jumped across the flasher relay to the #49a wire it stops at the centered T/S switch. The second path from the flasher relay #49a comes back to the E-Flasher switch #49a terminal and stops as long as the E-Flasher switch is OFF.
When the E-Flasher switch is ON, the #30 red wire INPUT is shorted to (+) instead of #15. This again stops at the T/S switch but when it follows the second path to the E-Flasher switch #49a terminal... this time it is shorted to both the L and R terminals. But since these wires are disconnected, it again has no place to go.

What you need do is start disconnecting wires and figure out where that low resistance to ground is coming from?
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 3:36 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

The front TS bulbs are 32/4CP. The rear are 1157. I will do further testing tomorrow. In the event the problem is the T/S switch, can you recommend a good quality one? There is no gray/red wire on the E switch. Yes, switch on means ignition. The fit for the E switch is tight and on or more of the terminals may be grounded. I will remove from car and test. I will also check the T/S switch for grounding. If these are not the problem, I'm lost as far as additional testing.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:15 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

Ashman, I followed your instructions and wanted to report back on the results. I removed the T/S switch so it was not touching the steering shaft and got a reading of OL on all three wires going to the T/S switch. I re-installed and got the .6 ohm readings as before. When I loosen the two screws on the right side of the switch, OL returns. What I believe is happening is a wire is making contact with the screw that holds down the part of the housing that you have to remove to extract the ignition cylinder. Several solutions are possible including insulating the offending screw or replacing it with a smaller screw. Leaving out the right side screws is also an option.

I will do further testing tomorrow but at least I have found one problem. I think.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ashman40
Samba Member


Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15975
Location: North Florida, USA
ashman40 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2016 7:58 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

I've heard of folks who had to insulate the four screws that hold down the T/S switch to prevent the switch from grounding. You could also add electrical tape where needed to keep circuits from grounding.

To be honest I don't know of a source for GOOD quality T/S switches 100% of the time. I typically trust Wolfsburg West for good quality electrical parts. You could also try EIS Parts.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2016 8:18 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

The T/S switch problem has been fixed. I tightened the 2 screws holding down the right side of the steering column, put electrical tape over them and reinstalled. Got OL for all three of the T/S wires in all test modes.

Still getting the same readings for the E switch. Removed from dash to ensure nothing was touching ground and got the same readings. Removed all wires to the E switch and took a break with a cold Coke to think about the problem.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2016 2:32 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

Good news! The funky readings on the E switch were coming from the T/S indicator bulb. I thought I had disconnected everything but I missed this. So, in theory, the problem has been fixed and I should have turn signals and E flashers.


Thanks to Ashman for holding my hand and walking me through this. 😁😁

Now to put everything back together as neatly as I can.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
drbacklash
Samba Member


Joined: January 25, 2011
Posts: 226
Location: Shallotte NC
drbacklash is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 8:38 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

Great news. I got all the wiring back together and I have turn signals and flashers. Thanks again to Ashman for his help and patience. The resources on this site from people with both knowledge and patience is unparalleled!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ashman40
Samba Member


Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15975
Location: North Florida, USA
ashman40 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 6:02 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 SB fuse #12 and #8 blowing with T/S and E switch. Reply with quote

Glad you got it working. Now get out there and drive it! Cool
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.