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Bob Brugge
Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2015
Posts: 721
Location: Missoula, MT
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 Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 6:10 pm Post subject: What to do next |
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Hi Guys!
I have been working on my engine for a while now. Now I am down to the expensive parts like the $600.00 IDF’s. Instead of frustrating myself over it, I thought I would bide my time and start on other things.
Here is a partial list of things, just wondering if there are things an owner ought to check and replace as necessary that I haven’t thought of yet.
Things that are done on this 70 STD Beetle include:
1641 sp motor
New hoses between brake reservoir and master cylinder
New MC
Things I am thinking about:
Engine tin seals like maybe on my next days off
Bonnet seal
Window scrapers and channel felt
Headlight beauty rings
NOS chrome door mirrors, pretty sure I haveta have those
Visors
Maybe do something about the strong gas smell
Car starts, stops, and runs fine. Basically I am just looking for some ideas on what to monkey with next while I lament the lack of cash for the more expensive parts. Need to replace wiper switch as soon as I can figure out how to get the old one out
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iowegian 
Samba Curmudgeon
Joined: February 16, 2005
Posts: 9829
Location: Somewhere between Dubuque and Keokuk
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 6:29 pm Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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It sounds like you have a good list of things to do.
In the meantime, maybe hanging a pair of fuzzy dice from the mirror would make you happy. |
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cletus_zuber
Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2010
Posts: 2408
Location: Gladstone, Ore
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 6:34 pm Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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Strong gas smell, replace all hoses under the front lid. All of them.
NOS mirrors good luck, Hecho en Mexico are good ones.
Scrapers and felt is good, rebuild your doors, grease the crap out of the the window winder mechanism too.
Special tool is needed to remove switches, MidAmerica sells them as do many other vendors, escutcheon wrench? or something like that.
Speaking of midamerica, i dont get the catalog anymore, I'll have to buy some valve cover gaskets or something, get back on the mailing list...
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HPMX 40's & 019 |
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Multi69s
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 5364
Location: Lefty, CA
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Danwvw
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012
Posts: 8892
Location: Oregon Coast
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| Posted: Sun May 29, 2016 10:17 am Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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IDF's? are Dual Port Carbs! Just get the Weber-ICT-34's Used for a couple of hundred dollars or new with everything for just over $400 dollars.
These are set-up for a single port.
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Lingwendil
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2009
Posts: 3988
Location: Antioch, California, a block from the hood
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| Posted: Sun May 29, 2016 1:33 pm Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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I would adjust your brakes, just to be sure. It's amazing the freeplay/dead travel you can get rid of just by turning out your star adjusters a tad. might as well check the clutch pedal freeplay while you're at it.
Gas filler and vent hoses replaced if needed, it sucks smelling gas the whole ride to work.
Front bonnet/hood seal. if your channel is muffed, get the mexican style that slips over the lip of the hood itself.
Breather line from oil filler to air cleaner, and lower road draft tube seal. assuming you are running a decent aircleaner (and the best ones for a stock carb are the OEM oilbath or paper element style) there will be proper provisions to hook up the line. you would be surprised at how this keeps your engine drip free over time, and you wont see anymore oily mist coating anything either.
Also, if running the proper aircleaner, you should also hook up the warm-air intake to the carb, it connects to a "stove pipe" coming up through the tin. this and properly functioning manifold heat are crucial to getting the most performance and MPG out of a centermount carb.
Distributor- set up a decent SVDA (if running a 34-3 carb) and time it properly, but with a single port you most likely have an older 30 series or h30/31, then you want to get yourself a vacuum advance only dizzy. I like the 205k. 009 will work, but not my preference for a stock carb.
Visors are a pretty big deal for me personally, way better when you actually have them and they stay put when you fold them out.
Engine tin seals are a pain, but can be replaced with the engine in if you dont mind the finagling required. these can make a huge difference in oil and head temps if missing. while you are at make sure all your tin fits well, and fix any gaps that you find.
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Bob Brugge
Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2015
Posts: 721
Location: Missoula, MT
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| Posted: Mon May 30, 2016 2:41 pm Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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| Danwvw wrote: |
IDF's? are Dual Port Carbs! Just get the Weber-ICT-34's Used for a couple of hundred dollars or new with everything for just over $400 dollars.
These are set-up for a single port.
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Yeah, I should have mentioned the IDF's are going on a 1849cc dp engine that I have been building. I have a set of Weber ICT's but was warned against using them due to their age and an unknown amount of crapus in the teeny tiny passages.
[/quote] I would adjust your brakes, just to be sure. It's amazing the freeplay/dead travel you can get rid of just by turning out your star adjusters a tad. might as well check the clutch pedal freeplay while you're at it. [/quote]
The brakes seem to be just fine, properly adjusted, etc.
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andrewvwclassic
Samba Member
Joined: January 25, 2012
Posts: 920
Location: los angeles
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| Posted: Mon May 30, 2016 3:14 pm Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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| Don't over carb the engine unless you are planning on getting a set of P&C's soon. dont forget all the extra plumbing as well. you can break the needle and seat if the pressure goes too high. |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7304
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Mon May 30, 2016 3:43 pm Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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| Lingwendil wrote: |
I would adjust your brakes, just to be sure. It's amazing the freeplay/dead travel you can get rid of just by turning out your star adjusters a tad. might as well check the clutch pedal freeplay while you're at it.
Gas filler and vent hoses replaced if needed, it sucks smelling gas the whole ride to work.
Front bonnet/hood seal. if your channel is muffed, get the mexican style that slips over the lip of the hood itself.
Breather line from oil filler to air cleaner, and lower road draft tube seal. assuming you are running a decent aircleaner (and the best ones for a stock carb are the OEM oilbath or paper element style) there will be proper provisions to hook up the line. you would be surprised at how this keeps your engine drip free over time, and you wont see anymore oily mist coating anything either.
Also, if running the proper aircleaner, you should also hook up the warm-air intake to the carb, it connects to a "stove pipe" coming up through the tin. this and properly functioning manifold heat are crucial to getting the most performance and MPG out of a centermount carb.
Distributor- set up a decent SVDA (if running a 34-3 carb) and time it properly, but with a single port you most likely have an older 30 series or h30/31, then you want to get yourself a vacuum advance only dizzy. I like the 205k. 009 will work, but not my preference for a stock carb.
Visors are a pretty big deal for me personally, way better when you actually have them and they stay put when you fold them out.
Engine tin seals are a pain, but can be replaced with the engine in if you dont mind the finagling required. these can make a huge difference in oil and head temps if missing. while you are at make sure all your tin fits well, and fix any gaps that you find. |
Everything ling said, and I would add replace ALL soft fuel lines - including the one by the tyranny!!
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mark tucker
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Mon May 30, 2016 4:36 pm Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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| put some good duel ports on it and use the idf's. |
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Multi69s
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 5364
Location: Lefty, CA
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| Posted: Mon May 30, 2016 5:48 pm Post subject: Re: What to do next |
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What type of heads, cam and exhaust are you going to use? Those are probably the three most important factors when determining carb choice. As far as ICTs, they are good little carbs, and I ran them on a mild Type 4 engine for quite awhile. If you are going to error on carb size, it is better to be a little too small, then too big. The main thing that you have to look out for on the ICTs, is shaft wear. If the shafts are tight and you can not feel them wiggle, then you are good to go. If the shafts wiggle, then the engine will run fine while your driving, but you will have an inconsistent idle. As far as tiny passages, they are no worse then other carbs, and a soak in Beeryman's, and compressed air will get you going.
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