Car stalling at stops

[static337]

It's a 1300 motor with a 28pict carb. So far I have had the carb rebuilt, adjusted electric choke, cleaned idle jet, cleaned all fuel lines,replaced the intake gas filter, rubber gas hoses, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, adjusted valves, fresh oil, fresh gas. Car runs and drives but won't idle and stalls at stops when the brakes are applied or in neutral when driving the car also hesitates in top of second and lower of third. I have been adjusting the idle mixture screw with no luck. What else can I look for or do? I feel like after all of the research I've done I have completed or fixed what could be causing this issue. Thanks in advance. My only other guess would be blocked heat risers or timing being off?

[grandpa pete]

have you eliminated junk in the gas tank .
_________________
63 two fold rag
66 sedan delivery Type 6

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569619&highlight=sedan+delivery

[static337]

[Old n' slow]

I had similar problems with my stock 1969 motor, my problem was a worn throttle shaft.
_________________
Currently own : 1969 Beetle w/ 1600cc, Single Port, Solex 30 PICT 2, Dist. 113 905 205 T, stock exhaust.
All my daily drivers gone but not forgotten;

1964(sunroof)1967 & (2)1968 Beetles , 1968 Squareback , 1963 (23 window )Deluxe Sunroof Bus , 1969 Westphalia camper, 1974 Dasher , 1985 Vanagon , (2) 1981 Rabbit Diesels & a 1991 Jetta Diesel .

[static337]

[KTPhil]

Is your throttle cable/spring setup operating freely?

[EverettB]

Does it have an electric idle shutoff valve or just a jet?
If electric, maybe the electronic shutoff is broken.
This would probably only affect idle though, not driving the car.

You said you adjusted the idle mixture screw - where did you adjust it to?
If it's too far in the engine won't idle but usually that involves you turning it all the way in.
Too far out could make the car drive poorly and get really bad gas mileage (mixture too rich)

I would check the timing too, this cause both of the issues you mention.
If you have messed around with the spark plug wires at all, double-check that they are in the correct order.
_________________
How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[static337]

[static337]

[static337]

Well still no luck. Tightened down the throttle shaft with no luck. Car only idles with the choke on then dies as soon as it opens up. Also the plugs are showing signs of running lean as well is it is backfiring or popping even with the choke on.

[KTPhil]

Try removing and blowing out your main jet. Sometimes rebuilding knocks loose a particle that somehow survives the cleaning, but will wedge there when flowing gas after assembly.

[2T2-Crash]

Hows your timing?

[flyboy161]

If you're mixture is set, baseline is turned all the way in and then turn it out 1.5 to 2 full turns. Start the car, let it warm up at idle. Turn the mixture screw in slowly, until the idle speed just begins to drop, then turn the mixture screw out 1/2 turn.

What kind of distributor do you have. Mechanical advance? Is the vacuum port on the left side of the carburetor plugged? Vacuum advance distributor? Is the hose from carb to dizzy ok? No splits, cracks, not too loose?

Procure about 2 feet of vacuum hose (the really small stuff). Start the car and place one end of the just in your ear (not too far, just at the entrance) and hold the other end around the carburetor gasket, the mixture screw, the intake manifold connection at the head, etc. Follow that air circuit around, check everywhere. If you have a leaking gasket or vacuum hose leaking, the car will run too lean. At the throttle shaft, listen. You'll hear a definite hissing sound from a vacuum leak. It will stall as you let off the gas, i.e. approaching a stop sign.

I have an oddball intake that has a vacuum port over the #4 cylinder. It was plugged with hose and bolt and looked fine. However, the hose was cracked on the "front" side, where I could not see it. Another time my vacuum line from the carb to the dizzy was split. Just enough to cause stalling.
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879

The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776

My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483

[static337]

Just cleaned the main jet and still dying after the choke releases. Also still backfiring. Would a lack of fuel cause this? I had a real bad back up of gunk in my fuel tank and wondering if my line from my tank is not kinked or if I still have some cleaning to do? Also timing is good it ran great before the carb rebuild and gas line issue.

[flyboy161]

On my '64 I had a really intermittent lean issue. Sometimes shed run great and sometimes she would stall and backfire. Drove me crazy trying to dial it in. I eventually pulled the carburetor back apart. I removed every jet I could from inside and outside. I found what looked like Amber colored sand in the float owl. Just a few grains. That's from the ethanol in our gas, thanks Uncle Sam!

I also found a screw missing from the accelerator pump on the side of the carburetor so I dug out a screw from my stash and fixed that. After blowing out the path of fuel from under the accelerator pump gasket.

I blew every pathway for fuel out and as I reassembled I paid attention to the jets too. The main jet at the left side of the carb you can see down in the float bowl. I mad sure I could see the hole in the side of the jet through the hole in the bottom of the float bowl. I mean the complete hole, not "Oh, I can barely see it". My rationale was, if the the ethanol sand is in the bottom of the float bowl, where is it going to go? That's right, down into that hole that the jet screws into and then it could block that hole. Engine starves for gas but the float bowl is full.

The air correction jet is the really long one that sits inside between the float bowl and the Venturi.

I left the hook shaped nozzle in place because I could see a good spray of gas when I moved the throttle lever. In other words the accelerator pump works great. I also had one of those fall down into the intake while driving years ago. Had to disassemble the cylinder head to get it out...NOT COOL!

The idle jet is on the right side of the carb. Blow it out really well and blow through the opening in the carburetor that it screws into. When I put it all back together I took my time. I made sure the float worked properly. Then filled the carb with fresh gas and tested it. No leaks Gould stream of gas through the accelerator pump nozzle. Then reinstalled it on the car.

The idle air adjustment is 1.5-2 turns out from all the way in. Start the car and adjust idle speed to 800 rpm. Turn idle air in until idle speed starts to drop and then turn it back out no more than 1/2 turn.

In the technical section there is a book called "Look, Listen and Do It Better" all about the 28PICT carb. Read it. It is a really good manual.
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879

The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776

My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483

[static337]

Sounds good. Thanks for the info. I think I'll pull the carb and go through it and clean everything again. I just double checked the timing and it's spot on. You can definitely tell it's a fuel related issue in my opinion. Just need to keep at it and figure out what's going on with it. Thanks again.

[Eric&Barb]

Got to expect to throughly clean the carb at least twice and possibly three times to get out all the gunk in it.

Back firing sounds like an intake vacuum leak. Those can be very insidious!
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[67rustavenger]

Ummm! Something like this was happening with my very reliable 1500. Yesterday I started the car and it ran under the choke. But when I moved the throttle at all it would immediately falter and die. I removed the dist cap to get access to the hold down nut on the case. Once I had the dist. in hand I noticed that my points wire inside the dist. was barely connected to the condenser I pushed the wire back on and reinstalled the dist. The engine fired right up and ran as it should.
It's worth a shot to check this out.
Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[static337]

[static337]