advise on an 1835 build please.

[Danwvw]

Well back when your checking the cam when it's not bolted together when you check that it does not lift out or jump out when you rotate it so it turns up. It needs to be free then.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[chubby53]

It seemed to rotate fine when apart. It wasn't until the main case bolts started getting snug to tight that it got tight. Once it did if I backed them off more and more it would turn easier more and more. I will mess with it more tomorrow.
If it's still tight without having the crank can I bolt it together without the double thrust bearing to see if that does anything?
Should i lay it in the other case half and see if it rotates freely then?
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[Danwvw]

Sure just got to figure out what is causing it crank or cam. When you install the crank it's important that you feel each dowel drop into place. Another thing that I have had happen is that the dowels are too long for the main bearings and this messes up a main bearing a little. Got to inspect the main bearings.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[vwinnovator]

did you check you lifter to cam clearances?

[chubby53]

[Danwvw]

No most cases have not had the cam bored and the cam bearings available are standard size. I used double thrust cam bearings once and they can be tight but at the thrust but it showed up at the 1/2 case mock up. Also be sure and check how your new oil pump fits the cam and your case at the 1/2 case stage.
The Tab on the oil pump drive shaft needs to fit well into the slot on the end of the cam but not bottom out and not hit the cam to cam gear bolts. Also make sure the oil pump intake aligns properly with the hole for it in the case. (They will normally).
When checking your cam rotation at the 1/2 case stage look at the cam gear making sure it does not have any runout, sometimes the cam when you bolt it to a gear will not be seated in the gear properly and you can see this when you turn the cam in the case.
Usually when I have a case just together with everything installed and torqued at the 6 big nuts, I have a little drag with the cam installed but not much. If it is easy to turn in one spot but difficult to turn in another place in the rotation and it's every other turn then it means the cam gear is not happy with the crank gear and you may need to try a different cam gear or even crank gear.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[chubby53]

So I'm a retard! Apparently when I put the dizzy drive in it bumped the crank and the little bearing by the pulled must of popped out and rotated cause it got squished. F%#$!!!!!
I've already bought two sets cause I f#%$ed up and ordered the wrong size the first time.
Stupid question...Can it be salvaged?
I will make it look better just to see if my cam and crank turns, but I will have to send off for another set I'm sure. Can you order just the one bearing?

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[Danwvw]

It happens to the best, I would not re use it.
_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[[email protected]]

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/1200-1600cc-Main-Bear...case-3.htm
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[chubby53]

Glass half full...
I had a learning experience (reason I'm building a stock stroke motor)
Good news. I assembled correctly and cam and crank turn smooth

John, if I order tomorrow AM. What are the chances I could have it by Friday?
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[[email protected]]

I don't know, it's 8pm and we cannot even verify stock until tomorrow (do we have the size you need in stock?)
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[rugblaster]

Fit the bearings in the case before you put them on the crank and mark them. Just scribe a line on the back side of the bearing lightly on the top and bottom where the case halve is. That way, all you need to do when you set the crank in is look at your marks.
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'69 Karmy, '69 Camper, Meyers clone, '65 drag bug, 10.78 @ 128 (sold it) '51 Dodge farm truck,
'09 MB E350 '18 MB E400, '65 Plymouth Valiant convertible and a '19 Ford F250 King Ranch (nicer, but dirty, farm truck)

VWoA factory trained line tech 75 till 90 or so
ASE Master Certification
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La Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin (San Angelo Chapter)
TCU ......GO FROGS!!!!!!

[chubby53]

Yeah I will send you an email. Honestly I don't have to have it this week if it's a pain. Just would be nice.
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[chubby53]

Back to my motor questions. I saw a bobcat style 1-1/2" exaughst for $105 shipped. Would that screw up my engine if I ran that, but modified it to fit stock heater boxes, or should I stick with the thunderbird style w/ stinger?
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[chubby53]

Just looking at the cam to lifter is this okay? Just. Want to make sure. Doesn't seem like it's enough contact to me, but I don't know what is good and bad either.

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[Danwvw]

Run whichever exhaust system you like but larger pipes won't help if there is more restriction somewhere. The cam looks very happy sitting on that lifter. You don't need to worry about lifter head Dia. unless you have more than .450" lift at the valve. Stock Lifter head size is 28mm and you can get 29mm and 30mm and more for high lift cams. This is important and is one of the reasons to consider ratio rockers if your building an engine with more lift.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Brian_e]

It actually has way more to do with the opening rate of the valve then the lift at the valve. Super quick ramp cams will have a pointy looking lobe, and the ramps will be rather flat. The flat ramps will ride further out on the lifter. Put some assembly lube on the lifter face and turn the cam over a few times while holding the lifter against the cam. You should be able to see where the lube has been rubbed off.

Brian

[chubby53]

i believe these are 29MM liftters. Skat
""SUPER-DUTY 72 TYPE 1 RACING LIFTERS
•1-piece design only weighs 72 grams with a 29mm Wide Head
•Increase horse-power and eliminate valve-train float at high R.P.M.’s
•Strongest hollow Type 1 lifter available with 60-degree radius face"""
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[Brian_e]

What cam are you running?

[chubby53]

Webcam 218
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