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My 64 notchback build thread
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tubbstravis
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 7:56 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

I rebuilt my carb today! It went well! It's backfiring some but I think it was just my fuel mixture being off. I think I fixed it. It is still having a rough time starting though . Any thoughts?

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Last edited by tubbstravis on Sat May 07, 2016 9:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 8:49 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

You're getting there!

Hard starting can be caused by any number of things. Have you adjusted the timing? How about the valves? What procedure did you use to adjust the carburetor? Is the choke adjusted by the marks? Are the plug wires new?

When you say "backfiring", when is it doing that? When the car is sitting still, and you rev it up? Or on the road, when you let off the gas? We need more info.

And please move that fuel filter out of the engine compartment. Those plastic filters can't take the heat for long, and they get brittle and crack, with disastrous results. A better place for it, is either under the gas tank, or next to the transmission.
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tubbstravis
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 9:14 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

I will move the filter. It was just there because I accidentally let dirty gas into my fuel pump the other day. Just there till it runs clear. I was able to run it around the yard doing doughnuts lol. My air fuel mixture valve is around 5 rotations out. the backfiring is much better. I think I was running it to lean. The car is smoking like hell so I am asuming that The rings are bad. I have not adjusted the timing or the valves at all. The engine has not been taken out of the car yet. I started the carb air mixture screw at 2.5 turns out and I ended around 5, maybe 4.5 turns out. plug wires are not new, coil is not new, and the choke is not set yet. it is set to the marks though.

I think part of my problem is that my battery (which is still pretty new, less than a year old) isn't spinning the motor like it did new.
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 9:34 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

Is there something dripping from the tailpipes? What color is the smoke?

First things first: adjust the valves dead cold, after the car has been sitting overnight. Then adjust the points, and lastly check and adjust the timing. Until these are set, you're shooting in the dark. Do you have a Bentley manual yet? It will tell you how to do these things, including carburetor adjustment.

Your fuel pressure may be too high, causing excessive smoke and washing the oil off the cylinder walls, and in extreme cases causing raw fuel to drip out of the muffler. You're looking for about 3 psi.

When these things are done, run the engine until it's warm, and check the compression on all 4 cylinders, coil unplugged and throttle wide open. This will tell you more about the rings.

Test! Don't guess.
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tubbstravis
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 9:42 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

I had a little of water drip into the manifold earlier when I was washing off the engine. I had bags plugging the holes but I still has a little get in. No biggie.

The points in the distributor are brand new. I will need to drop the engine out of the car to do anything with the valves wont I?

If that is the case what all should I do on the engine? I was having trouble getting a solid compression reading. My dad said my compression gage was reading 90lbs, but I was having trouble with the readings, but it might have been my gage messing up on me because I was reading about 60. Exactly what range should I have on my engine? If I have to take out the engine, I have a good mind to put bigger pistons in it.
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 5:37 am    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

You're looking for at least 100 lbs. on your compression gauge. I doubt it was 60, as it probably wouldn't run if it was that low. But, you might want to check them again to be sure. If there's any question about your gauge, buy, rent or borrow another one to test.

You don't have to drop the engine to adjust the valves. They do need to be adjusted before you check the compression, though.
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 8:26 am    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

Donnie strickland wrote:

You don't have to drop the engine to adjust the valves. They do need to be adjusted before you check the compression, though.


Yup, just bring the engine up to #1 piston (TDC), and flip the bail down on the right valve cover. Remove the cover, and with your .006 feeler gauge, set both valves with it. Then turn the engine counter clockwise, and do the valves on #2 cylinder. Using a new gasket on the valve cover, re-install it and flip the bail back up. Rotate the engine CCW again, and do cylinder #3, then do cylinder #4. Put that cover back on, and then rotate the engine back to #1 cylder, and check the point gap, and also you can "static" time it with a light, or start the engine and use a timing light to set the timing to 7.5* BTDC (before top dead center). Now you can set idle speed.
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tubbstravis
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 11:12 am    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

I basically got it. I had to twist my distributor some. It was completely frozen. I got it twisting some but that's another issue to come. I'm going to do the front brakes and valves next weekend
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 1:44 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

Also, I had a question about the fuel mixture screw. What is the standard starting point for adjusting the fuel mixture screw. I originally started without 2 1/2 turns. I then let it warm up and then started turning in the fuel air mixture screw until the engine started to struggle. I then turned it out slightly. Could this be a problem as to why it is backfiring some still? It is running really well except it likes to backfire a lot when it is cold or under a heavy load. The engine is in time. Before Taman the engine I found it it was out of time 180°.
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 6:47 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

tubbstravis wrote:
Also, I had a question about the fuel mixture screw. What is the standard starting point for adjusting the fuel mixture screw. I originally started without 2 1/2 turns. I then let it warm up and then started turning in the fuel air mixture screw until the engine started to struggle. I then turned it out slightly. Could this be a problem as to why it is backfiring some still? It is running really well except it likes to backfire a lot when it is cold or under a heavy load. The engine is in time. Before Taman the engine I found it it was out of time 180°.


Did you get a Bentley manual? If do it will tell you how to do these things.

Missing under a load, or when cold, could be caused by any number of things. You say you have not yet adjusted your valves. Do these things, in this order:

1. Valves
2. Set point gap
3. Readjust timing, since it will have changed.
4. Adjust carburetor with engine warm
5. Adjust idle speed last

How did you determine the timing was 180 out?
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 6:57 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

Because I had it set to tdc and it the rotor was not going to wire 1. It's good now. I think it is the valves. I will also check the point gap though.

Another question though back on what I asked a while back. The type 3 distributor. I do not understand the difference in a type 1 and s type 3 distributor. I am building a type 1 on the side right now and was examining the drive rod and it looks literally the same. Many people say that they run 009 distributors in their type 3 but others say it is wrong. I don't understand it.
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 7:21 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

tubbstravis wrote:
Because I had it set to tdc and it the rotor was not going to wire 1. It's good now. I think it is the valves. I will also check the point gap though.


If you mean the timing marks on the fan pulley, they will be at TDC twice, once when cylinder 1 is at TDC, and once when cylinder 3 is at TDC. To check this, you can remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 and put a pencil or a straw in the hole while you turn the pulley, and this way make absolutely sure it's at TDC. It's possible the rotor was pointing at #3, when you had the marks at TDC.

tubbstravis wrote:
Another question though back on what I asked a while back. The type 3 distributor. I do not understand the difference in a type 1 and s type 3 distributor. I am building a type 1 on the side right now and was examining the drive rod and it looks literally the same. Many people say that they run 009 distributors in their type 3 but others say it is wrong. I don't understand it.


The distributor drive pinion is the same, but on a Type 3 engine you install the pinion with the slot offset by 60 degrees to the case centerline, instead of 90 degrees like a Type 1. This is covered in the Bentley, or you can Google "VW Type 3 distributor drive pinion" to see a picture of what it should look like. This is done so the distributor's vacuum canister will clear the fan housing.

You can run a 009-style distributor in a Type 3. It has no vacuum canister, so it doesn't matter how you have the drive pinion installed. You time it at about 30 degrees full advance, and let the idle timing fall wherever it will.
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 1:18 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

Engine case question. I have an engine case that my dad gave me. it is an older case and it is bored for 94 pistons. He told me that the case does not use cam bearings. Is this possible? and is this a problem? It uses a stock crank.


Also, Distributor question. All distributors are the same voltage wise right? 6 or 12? its all dependant on the coil right? I can use either distributors. Correct?
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 2:20 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

yes on the distributor

as for the engine case - get us the number. Yes there are cases without cam bearings. I wouldn't build a high performace engine without them. They can be machined to accept cam bearings (Rimco, brothers machine, some others can do cam bearings)
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tubbstravis
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 7:19 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

I can't run an 009 on 6 volts can I?


Also, what is the difference in a 6v fan housing and a 12v fan housing. I think I found a 12v one but I want to make sure that it's what I need before I buy.

Also, spindles. Are spindles the same on the front for discs and drums? I am wanting to buy the drop spindles featured on the classified type 3 section from Classic vw. They claim that they are good for discs or drums either one. Does that mean I can go to discs on my current stock spindles?
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 7:30 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

A distributor is not voltage-specific. Is there something wrong with yours? Most new 009-style distributors are lousy quality. If you are keeping your stock carburetor you are much better off staying with your stock distributor, since they are designed to work together. If it's having problems, Jim Adney can rebuild it for you. His email is [email protected].

The 12 volt generator is bigger in diameter, so the 12 volt fan shroud is made differently where the generator sits on it. Measure your 6 volt shroud right there, and then measure the other one to see if they are the same or different.

I don't know about the drop spindles.
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

I want to put a flamethrower distributor in my motor.
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 7:58 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

tubbstravis wrote:
I can't run an 009 on 6 volts can I?


Also, what is the difference in a 6v fan housing and a 12v fan housing. I think I found a 12v one but I want to make sure that it's what I need before I buy.

Also, spindles. Are spindles the same on the front for discs and drums? I am wanting to buy the drop spindles featured on the classified type 3 section from Classic vw. They claim that they are good for discs or drums either one. Does that mean I can go to discs on my current stock spindles?


The 009 distributor is garbage, IMO. Hard to tune and has a flat spot in it. You'd be better off with a 205D distributor or a 64 only ZV/JCU 4R3 distributor.

Fan shrouds are different diameters for the early/late generators - early are small diameter (90mm) vs. late (105mm). Ask for the part number stamped on the front - assuming they're a mated pair:

311 119 225 C = 6 volt
311 119 225 D = 12 volt

Spindles are not the same for disc and drum. Disc spindles have 'ears' to hold the calipers and drum spindles, for obvious reasons, do not. You can go disc with drum spindles by using a CSP brake kit - it's 100% bolt on with no modifications.
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 8:24 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

For the cap brake kit, how much does it cost? Is there a drop spindle option? Do you have a link?
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 8:57 pm    Post subject: Re: My 64 notchback build thread Reply with quote

Here:
CSP Type 3 disc brakes
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