First aircooled 65 single cab

[Fiatdude]

Safari windows can be your friend -- -- if you really get hot lol
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[ryans65]

[ryans65]

Put a coat of paint on my air cleaner elbow. I've been using POR top coat for this type of thing lately. This stuff really leaves a great durable coat on anything and being POR they say you can spray it directly over rusted bare metal.

[ryans65]

[ryans65]

Float bowl had some really gross stuff that had settled on the bottom.

I also have some play on the throttle shaft, I think I'll just use the rebuild kit I have and see what happens from here. Worst case I'll just buy a new one or get a known good one from the classifieds.

[Eric&Barb]

If it is just a little sloppy it will not matter. More than that then you can have it drilled reamed and brass bushings installed. In the classifieds you can find someone who will fix that for you.
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[ryans65]

Rebuilt the carb and installed it again, runs exactly the same. Will run fine on the fast idle cam but dies once off of it. I ran out of time tonight to troubleshoot it any more. I need to get my crank pulley installed also so I know exactly where I am with timing. I did notice when setting the throttle stop that the screw was turned really far in. I had to screw it several revolutions until it came off the last position on the fast idle cam. This may have been done at some point in the past to get it to idle but obviously that is not the correct way to set the idle.

[Eric&Barb]

Do not fear cleaning it again. Look at the cut away diagrams in the repair manuals on where each passage in the carb goes.

Are you running the engine without the crank pulley? If so, that is bad because you can cook the engine very quickly without the gan/alt rotating which the cooling fan is attached to so no cooling air is being pumped over the engine..
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[ryans65]

Sorry I should have clarified, I have a pulley on it now but am using a mark I made with a sharpie to set ignition timing. I bought another pulley with the full 360 degree markings on it but have not installed it yet.

[Fiatdude]

Run the carb dry of gasoline and then fill it up with WD40 thru the vent tube and let it sit overnight -- -- hook the fuel line back up and start it -- it will smoke like a diesel for 5-10 minutes (and it won't run much past idle) and see if this will help your carb!!!!!
_________________
Remember, as you travel the highway of life,
For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch

[Eric&Barb]

Your dog house cooling system requires a wider cooling fan than the one used for the earlier non-dog house shroud to work properly.

In turn the dog house cooling system requires the bigger diameter crankshaft pulley than was used for any non-dog house cooling system built since the 40 HP engine came out in 1961. Bigger lower pulley mean the upper gen/alt pulley turns more turns as compared to the crankshaft.

Most degree after market pulleys are of a smaller diameter where the belt rides, and have seen the nifty degree marks to be off quite a bit. The latter is not good for setting your timing.

Best use of a degree pulley is to establish where TDC is on #1 cylinder with that spark plug out and use something like a plastic straw to feel when the piston is closest to the cylinder head. Then put back on the stock pulley and see which if any marks are at TDC and make a mark or note where the other marks are on it. Use the degree pulley for any future engine to check the stock pulley marks now that you know if the degree pulley marks are correct or how much off.

The stock pulley you have now looks like it is a 7" diameter for DH.
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[ryans65]

[Eric&Barb]

Glad to help. Be very careful of any new non-stock parts, doubly so if advertised as "Heavy Duty".

EG heavy duty larger non-stock oil pumps have been sold for decades that produce too much oil pressure in a unworn engine. The stock oil system in these ACVWs uses a spring loaded pressure regulation. When oil is cold, thick and so produces too much pressure, the oil pressure valve sends the oil directly to the bearings bypassing the oil cooler. When oil heats up to operating temperature the pressure drops and all oil is sent thru the oil cooler.
So if oil pressure is too much when oil is hot, due to too big of oil pump used, the engine will sooner than later fry due to running too hot of oil temp due to not being sent thru the oil cooler.

In other words it is better to think long about a new part, do some research on thesamba, and if you do not find anything, post a question about the item..
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[ryans65]

Finally had time to work on the truck. Bought a rebuilt Solex pict 34 from a guy in the classifieds to replace the other 30/31 that it came with. Also put the correct air cleaner on while troubleshooting I noticed that it would idle even with the idle screw turned all the way in. I immediately knew there was a massive air leak somewhere so I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boots and the bases of the manifolds and sure enough the engine surged slightly every time I sprayed it. I still managed to get it to run enough to take it around the block which put a big smile on my face. Going to pull the motor soon to get the intake sealed up as well as the leaky flywheel seal.

Hanging out with another peculiar pickup in the garage.

Noticed my pickup has the fuel pocket drain hole.

[Eric&Barb]

Does it have the drain tube also?
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[ryans65]

No tube, just the hole.

[ryans65]

Had a nice Saturday morning in the garage. Pulled the motor and confirmed the massive oil leak was from the flywheel seal. Oil everywhere in the bell housing and it has unfortunately soaked a really new looking clutch. Might just throw it back in anyways, it seemed to work fine despite the oil.

[Eric&Barb]

Use a spray can of Braklean to use on the clutch disc. Hang it up over some newspapers and spray it down twice to get out the oil. Just do not get that stuff on your skin, it will take out all the natural oils and cause your skin to painfully crack open....

If you replace the clutch disc anyway, measure and adjust the clutch cable before installing the engine.

Check your end play, and adjust if need be.

Get the rubber grommet on the fuel line where it passes thru the front tin.

Metal fuel line is not supposed to be hanging out so far in front of the front tin. Get most of it back in the engine compartment, just a few inches should be out front. You should have enough flex fuel line up front of the front tin so as to allow you to pull engine back enough and drop down. Then reach over the engine to pull off the flex fuel line. Also nice to add in the earlier fuel tap so you can just shut off the fuel before pulling the engine!

Good time to pull the fan shroud and check the fan inside width and check that the cooler has the foam rubber seal over it to seal it to the shroud. Cooler works best with air passing thru not around it.

Missing the foam rubber on the DH exhaust shell.

Missing the two rubber seals on the DH exhaust tube.

Last two are not huge, but every bit helps.
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[Eric&Barb]

Also look at the rear lower metal brake lines. Left one is shaped correctly, while right on looks like it was slammed around so bending it out of shape. Right one needs to pass straight down thru the grommet.

Left line is missing rubber grommet that the right one has.
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[ryans65]

So much great info, thank you! I'm done for the day on the scab, have to go to the shop and grab my socket for the flywheel bolt. The window regulator on my BMW just broke and my 6 month Toyota pickup project needs some miles on it before I take it Offroad. I'll post more once I get back at it.